Soundproofing  may be thought of as a way to keep noise out or in.  For instance, external  traffic noise is  a keep “OUT” example or keep “IN” if it’s loud music, etc. to keep the neighbors happy.  In many cases there is a privacy issue too, both inside and out.

Because of the unique structure of a Manufactured or Mobile home, certain considerations apply, but are similar to techniques used in a typical house.

“Soundproof” is a misnomer as there are levels of sound control which are obtained at higher costs of materials and labor.  Usually the level to be described here are average levels that can reduce the sound to a level of annoyance that can be easily tolerated.

There are several areas involved in soundproofing any structure:

1). Walls,  External and Internal.

2). Windows

3). Doors

 The techniques involved are ones easily understood and that can be performed by most any handyman or DIY’er.  The pitfalls are that these techniques are sometimes replaced by preconceived notions on how to go about it.  Even some contractors are notoriously misinformed and many times they do jobs that actually can make things worse.

Let’s look at some common solutions that have been proven to work well with minimum expense and effort.

Walls: Simply cover them with a sound barrier material named “MLV” (Mass Loaded Vinyl).  It’s only 1/8” thick, comes in rolls 4’ wide and can easily be applied with staples, tacks or even has adhesive backing. The entire wall must be covered with no gaps or open seams  (sound is like water, it will take the path of least resistance).  It works best if covered with Sheetrock (Gypsum board).  Use the 5/8” thick “Fire-code” type.  If you don’t wish to cover the MLV,  you can paint it with Latex paint or buy the white colored variety as shown here:

Fire Rated 48 width Class A Mass Loaded Vinyl by the foot

MLV comes several different types, fitted to different sound control solutions, but the one mentioned will double the  soundproofing of any wall.

 Windows: There are several solutions for soundproofing windows, depending if you want light or not.

A “Window Plug” is simple a slab of special 2” thick Vinyl Nitrile foam cut a bit oversize to be a press fit into your window opening. Don’t push it up against the glass, leave airspace, it will work blocking sound better.

window plug

If it’s in direct sun, a layer of reflective foil may be in order.

A better solution that means you may not have to remove your blinds from the window opening as in the previous solution and it can be left in place to provides light: a “Secondary” window.

Window Magnet Seal

It’s a 1/4″ thick clear plastic sheet that fits over your existing window opening creating a dead airs pace.  Since sound doesn’t like to travel through dead air very well, it is very effective in blocking sound.  A steel “L” angle is placed around the perimeter of the opening.  The magnetic tape holds it in place making removal easy.  Again, if in direct sun light, it may fry your blinds- a layer of solar foil on the inside will help.


Doors: Because sound likes to travel via the easiest path, sealing around the closed door is essential.  You must use a closed cell foam tape around the perimeter of the door where any light can be seen coming through.



The large gap at the bottom of the door must be closed off with a door sweep.  Typical door sweeps are just for drafts, but there are specially modified ones that also block sound. They install simply with a few screws.


Using a door sweep for soundproofing a door


So there you have a few of the solutions for quieting your mobile home. 

Free advice can be had from the Super Soundproofing Co™ at 760-752-3030 8-5 or email your questions to


Products mentioned above are more fully described at home (above)

And available from the shopping cart at

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