Move to Top
"How to Do It" 
Air Conditioner
Air Purifier
Acoustical Caulk
Band Practice
Flame Resistant
Floor Noise
Foam Panels
Game Rooms
Home Theatre
Magnetseal Windows
Music rooms
Mobile Home
Mobile Sound Studio
Mounting Clips
Natural Fiber
"Party" Walls
Portable Sound Control
Safe Rooms
Sample Kit
Sound walls
Sound Isolation
Sound Clip
Window plug
Q&A Forum
What's New!
How to Select
Contractors Center
DIY Center
EP Manual
Return Policy
Privacy Statement



In-stock orders received before 1 P.M. PST ship same day! Ask about our Nationwide pick up points!

free report

google plus

The Yelp reviews below are from paying customers. The reviews are being pulled from an independent 3rd party website. They are real. Click to see more. yelp


Like Us Facebook

Archive for the ‘How To Do It’ Category

MORE ABOUT SOUNDPROOFING DOORS – About Door Sweep Soundproofing

Buy Now

How to soundproof your door with a simple acoustical soundproofing  door sweep.        (Click Here for Printer Version!)

This is All About Controlling Sound and Reducing Noise coming through Doors.

We sell hundreds of these door bottom gap sealers to hotels, motels, bed and breakfasts and apartment buildings  for cheap door soundproofing – take a tip from them!

After dealing with the exterior sound coming thru  windows,  sound control efforts in a room should focus on the door: a typical interior  hollow core door will pass sound quite readily.  (An STC of much less than 20- this means conversation can easily be heard thru it).

The door should entirely be replaced with a solid, exterior door, the thickest you can find.  “MDF” (Medium Density Fiberboard) doors are cheap and have good sound blocking qualities and available from Builders Supply like Home Depot.

Get a door without the recessed decorative panels- they reduce the thickness of the door.  If it’s important to have them,  buy some that you can attach onto the door.  Make sure the door is well fitted to the frame, no gaps or crevices for sound to migrate through. If there are  gaps, use our closed cell PVC tape,  (not from the hardware store).

The door should be sealed off as if it was 40 degrees below zero on one side.  If it has a gap over 1/4″ at the bottom, use our door sweep seal, (a metal strip with a rubber flap) mounted to it, available from us.  (As shown here).  Set it to just brush the floor.     If your door is a standard 36″ wide, you can get it and a roll of sealing tape for $36 Free Shipping!

Door Sweep Soundproofing

A seal is essential to properly soundproof a door. Our soundproofing seal is a rubber loop, carefully cut to your door width size, modified by us with sealed ends for added performance in creating a dead air space within the loop. We’ll cut this to an exact fit for  your door if you’ll give us the measurement of the width of the door.

You will also receive the screws to mount it to your door.  Depending on if it’s metal, you’ll need to drill pilot holes, if wood you won’t.  Usually, only a screwdriver and a few minutes is needed to install this very much needed attachment to block sound from coming from underneath your door.

Some notes about our “Soundproof Door Sweep”: (The part that should seal the door bottom against sound and that fits on the edge of the bottom of the door). Since our doorsweep only seals up to a 3/4′ gap, a transom seal should be used from the hardware store that fits on the floor across the bottom of the doorway.  Use this kind if you have a huge gap. Try to get one with a rubber flap. (Mechanical ones are expensive and will eventually fail).

Note, the illustration above would tend to make some believe the seal fits somewhat under the bottom of the door- not so- it just hangs down and does not slide under the door!

Door Extender Strip


Remember- it won’t close the bottom door gap over 3/4″,   if more, use  the above mentioned threshold to take up some of the gap or build down the bottom of the door with a wood strip.


Sometimes it may take both!


This wood strip was mounted with glue and screws using drilled pilot holes to avoid splitting the wood.  It was then painted to match the door finish. The doorsweep may also be painted.


The seal should lightly brush the floor, but a 1/4″ gap is acceptable when you are done.


Your new door may still need sound insulation. Use 1/8″ MLV with 1/4″ closed  cell   foam,   bonded to it or 1/4″ MLV.. Then cover with “Super Soundproofing acoustical mat”.    Usually 1″ thick will suffice. Cut it a bit oversize to cover the seam of the door at the  frame to help seal it.  You can use the mat with the adhesive backing but you may not be able to remove it later.

A typical door 3′ X 8′ is 36 sq. ft. so 8′ of the 4′  wide MLV will cover it. 9′ of the 4’X1″ foam will be needed. If there’s a lot of sound still coming through, consider hanging a “Mass Loaded Curtain” (barrier) or a acoustical curtain over the door and frame.

Door Frame

Soundproofing Doors

You could use gaskets that are ordinary thermal sealing gasketing foam strips from the hardware store, but far better results can be had if you use our “Super Soundproofing 1/8” Thick Self-Adhesive Tape” , because it is a closed cell material, will seal better and is much more durable. It is a gray tape in widths of 1/4″, 3/8″ & 1/2″ for door sealing.  Apply strips on top of each other to build up and close wide gaps.

Think you can’t replace the door with your door, Landlord problem? You can always put his door aside and rehang it when you leave. Better, create an “Airlock door system” by leaving his door in place and adding another door to the frame, opening the opposite way. (Solid core, of course!)

TIP: Remove the molding from around (use care to not split it!), the door and check the gap between the frame of the door and the rough framing.  Usually you’ll find there is nothing there!  Many times this empty space of the door frame has no insulation at all,  just covered by two pieces of wood molding. Pack the area with our Super Soundproofing Mat (you can order just a few feet, we have no minimums), or use our caulk, and cover the gap with our lead tape, then replace the molding. This tip applies to windows too! (Do not use expandable foam as for thermal insulation. It will be worse than the airgap, establishing a soundpath).

Sliding doors have little or no acoustical qualities at all and are best replaced with one that has, or if not possible, covered with a hanging sound barrier such as curtains, etc. If it’s a glass patio door, you could cover part of it with soundproofing mat and make a holding panel with mat attached to it to cover the door that moves when it’s shut.

Another option is to add another patio door with a new frame. This double door will block a lot of sound by trapping air between the door panels. Commercially available soundproofing sliding glass doors can be had here.  But you can do-it-yourself!

French double doors need a “T” strip and special techniques to reduce sound transfer.  Best to call us to discuss.

Open doorways? Curtains hung across open doorframes usually don’t perform well acoustically, but do some sound blocking if they are heavy and fitted well to the frame. If made of clear plastic and cut into strips for egress, the strips need to be overlapped about 50%. When using clear plastic, use the heaviest you can, we have it in up to .160 thicknesses. Acoustical curtains perform about the same. If possible, consider hanging curtains on BOTH sides of the doorway for greatly improved sound reduction. This is because the dead air trapped there works for you. Such curtain installations should touch the floor. Use double-sided tape to attach the curtains to the wall at the edges to help seal the curtain.

Garage doors are another problem, especially bad if they are segmented doors. (Panels that are hinged). Such doors may prove difficult to deal with because of the gaps created by the hinging. However, our “Super Soundproofing Mat” glued to the inside may flex enough to work O.K. Use as thick of material as you can. It will also help to use a barrier like “Super Soundproofing Flooring” (MLV) to cover the entire door area including the walls to outside. (More on this on the web page about soundproofing a garage).

Download Printer Friendly Version

Question?  Use our form (below) for a quick answer!


Quantity users?  We give discounts! CAll (760) 752-3030

Interior Windows for Soundproofing

Glass or Acrylic Interior Windows for MAXIMUM SOUND CONTROL!

Soundproof windows!

If you need REAL sound reduction, interior secondary soundproof windows may be the solution. An 80% sound reduction and more can be had over the performance of the prime window!

These windows are made to fit inside the frame of your existing window, inside the living area, providing a large airspace between the existing window and the new one. This DEAD AIRSPACE increases noise reduction dramatically. Windows can be made to open or not, be flush or not and you can have a selection of frame, glass, tempered, tinted, etc.

If you can install a shower door, you can install one of these windows. The hardest part is taking fairly close measurements! You won’t find these  inside storm windows at Lowes or Home Depot!  [ BUY ]

More About

Noise reduction kits by Super Soundproofing Co™.

Noise Reduction Soundproofing Kits using Super Soundproofing™ Materials!

A variety of sound proofing methods and techniques can utilize our materials for noise reduction and abatement.   Make your own sound proofing kit by ordering the materials for it yourself.   Here are some of the most common uses for noise control as related to us by our customers:

Soundproofing a TV in the apartment overhead: Noise reduction eliminates a potential enemy!

The upstairs tenant was totally unaware of the loud annoyance she created for the folks downstairs by the noise of her TV.   The downstairs folks approached her very diplomatically and offered to install under her TV, without cost to her, our “Super Soundproofing™ Floor Mat” .  She agreed and they ordered five running feet of the floor mat material, P.N. 09-42750 (This is the 1/8″ thick “loaded vinyl” with a 1/4″ foam backing) and at the same time, ordered four small vibration pads

They picked up her TV and laid the mat over the rug, (it could have been placed underneath it), placed the isolation pads under the TV and report the sound heard from it  downstairs  was now reduced to a very low,  acceptable level.  The lady upstairs is more friendly now and the downstairs folks  report they’ve turned  a potential enemy into a friend.

Soundproofing a washer, dryer or refrigerator. The above works just as well for these sometimes noisy appliances!  Use a dab of a adhesive to the pad and the foot of the machine to keep ,it from “walking” out.  If you are wishing for some relief from such noise yourself, a pad of our Super Soundproofing™ Mat attached to the back wall, in addition to the barrier mat placed under it as explained regarding the TV above works wonders to reduce noise produced in the room.   Use at least half inch material, PN 09-42725. (one inch is better). Tip: They make “roll-out” casters for the fridge to make handling easier. (More about this noise reduction method!)

Portable panels: If you plan on moving but still want some immediate relief from sound  annoyances, make some portable panels you can take with you. Buy 4’X8′ wall paneling (also called “Panel-board”.  “Homasote” and ordinary “Soundboard” also works well.) from the hardware store and attach Super Soundproofing™ Mat to the backside with contact cement.   Use at least 1″ thick material. (PN 09-42730).  (Well, OK, 1/2″ may work pretty good, too).  Push the panels up into place on your wall using a long finishing nail here and there to hold them in place.  (Tip: seal the edges of your panels with our acoustical caulk for best results).  A noticeable sound level reduction will be made and you can take your panels with you!

You can leave them behind because they are so inexpensive.  (So is a material called “Wonderboard” Also Duroc,  which is made of concrete!).  Caulking around the edges of your panels as mentioned above is essential.  We have a new portable panel easily removed leaving little evidence they were in use. Call!

Window “Plugs”. The most popular method for getting a good nights sleep.  Use 2″ thick Super Soundproofing™ Mat (PN 09-42760) cut to the size of your window (s) and press fit into place. Flexible, yet firm, it will stay in place. More on this.  If the noise is so loud one panel doesn’t do it, use two.  A FM radio tuned to the hiss between stations will help to mask noise while sleeping, too.  (Also a running fan).

Investigate our Interior Windows for where you must have light and soundproofing too! (Or look into using clear vinyl sheeting as listed on our curtains page).

Masking sound.  Some have reported that the electronic devices made by Marpac mask out sound very well.  (You can use a fan in the summer!).

Noise Reduction for Doors!   How to do it!

Fencing Out Noise. Due to many requests, we’ll now give you some info on doing this:  Masonry walls are best.  Important!: Walls need to be at least 8′ high.  Federal noise reduction regulations normally preempt local height ordinances, so you should be able to go higher.  You can make your own noise panels using 4’X8′ sheets of CDX exterior plywood with our absorbent mat sandwiched between and bolted to the fence.  A layer of barrier material like our “Mass Loaded Curtain” material is then stapled over the assembly. These panels are to go on chain-link, wood or masonry fencing and absorb and block loud noise such as produced by machinery, roads and freeways.  They can be used in the backyard for noise reduction as they are designed for outside use.   Caulking seams is essential. Call us for more info.

Soundproofing a car hood: More on this here.

Need a copy of the EPA’s  popular (but out-of-print), book on Soundproofing? “QUIETING: A Practical Guide to Noise Control”?   (Over a hundred 8.5″X11″pages).  Read this and you won’t need a noise control consultant! Get info on sound walls, materials and STC ratings and much more!  Many illustrations.  We provide it for just $15 PP to cover copying costs and postage. Or you can download it now! Amaze everyone with your new-found expertise!  MORE

FOR MUSIC PRACTICE and Soundproofing Musical 


You should give careful thought to the selection of a place to play your music!

Soundproofing should be done as a last resort. It can be expensive and time consuming.

Commercial locations are best because people go home around 5 PM, just when musicians may start to be creative!

If playing locally, try to anticipate conflicts. Neighbors who may complain, either next door or even way down the street may cause you lots of grief. Before you start playing, go and meet whoever could be a problem and make it clear that you have consideration for them. This advice alone can save you lots of soundproofing dollars! Mentioning that you plan to soundproof if it needs it is a real plus. Give them your phone number to call instead of the police. Once they start complaining, real expensive soundproofing effort may not be enough! A little “PR” will go a long way!

No neighbors nearby or at all would be the best solution of all!  Our Band with Music Room Soundproofing

If you can’t take your practice someplace where the sound will not be a problem for someone, try to choose the best place for your practice room where the level of annoyance will be at a minimum. The basement is best, followed by a room (or building) located as far from a potential complainer as possible. Masonry makes the best soundproofing material, especially for low frequencies, like drums. Garages are difficult because of the large door opening. Our portable sound booth could be placed in a garage or even a room. A mobile sound practice studio may fit your needs.

Windows are your enemy because they pass sound so readily. Hollow core doors are also almost transparent to sound. (Any door that’s unsealed will pass sound easily). Don’t think carpet and egg-crate material will help soundproof anything, they’ll just make the music room “dead”, seemingly soundproof.  Sometimes, adequate sound reduction can be had with a “Double-Drywall” technique where a layer of drywall is applied over the existing wall, (and/or ceiling) with visco-elastic coating,  suspended on resilient metal channels  or sound clips with a layer of thin acoustical absorbent mat in between.  This provides more mass, vibration isolation and absorbency with one technique.

In many cases, the best solution to a very high volume of noise is a “Room-within-a-room” with the inner walls a foot or so from the existing walls. Covering the walls with acoustical mat will certainly help, but it’s hard to predict to what degree. Perhaps a floating drummers pad or even a full floating floor or room will help.  This means some knowledge of sound control and carpentry is needed to do some non-structural construction. Careful attention to certain details (not mentioned on the site), could mean the difference between success and failure of your sound reduction project!  (You’ll get these vital details when you become our customer!)

A typical practice room would have sound barrier material applied to the old walls before building a false wall and ceiling out from that wall a foot or two. The airspace between must be sealed off with caulk and be a complete compartment of itself. (Each wall, ceiling and floor). Another layer of barrier, resilient channel and a layer of  “Homasote” or “Green Glue” and drywall would complete the walls and ceiling.

For a door, use an exterior door, or better, two doors opening opposite ways. More on doors.

Specifics about these methods and materials, including illustrations and detailed instructions on construction can be had from our Internet web pages. Our soundproof booth may be of interest. We have panels that can be simply hung on the existing walls, too.

Expert Village
Jul. 31, 2006. 11:03 PM EST
In this instructional video, you will learn about the best kinds of microphones to use when assembling your own recording studio.
Expert Village
Jul. 31, 2006. 11:03 PM EST
Learn about microphones for a professional recording studio in this how-to video clip on professional recording equipment.
Expert Village
Jul. 31, 2006. 11:03 PM EST
Learn the function of the preamplifier, or preamp, in a professional recording studio in this how-to video clip on professional recording equipment.
Expert Village
Jul. 31, 2006. 11:03 PM EST
Learn what types of recording studio software are available in this how-to video clip on professional recording equipment.
Expert Village
Jul. 31, 2006. 11:03 PM EST
Learn how to soundproof a professional recording studio in this how-to video clip on professional recording equipment.

Mold and how to avoid it

Do Soundproofing While Preventing Mold!


Newspapers and television programs are increasingly reporting on mold problems with newer homes and schools.

In one such instance, the Ballard family of Texas had their home demolished in April of this year due to mold infestation that could not be removed. Their son suffered permanently scarred asthmatic lungs, while the father lost his memory and his job. The mold got so bad they needed hepa filters to enter the house.

Erin Brockovich and her family are also battling mold related illnesses, like respiratory ailments and chronic headaches, to name a few. Tests on the home revealed serious construction flaws and high levels of several molds. Blood test results indicated a severe reaction to two of the molds that showed up in the home. For more information, visit (search Ortiz) under the “Landmark Toxic Mold Legislation Draws Support From Local and National Advocates” article.

There are specific environmental conditions required for mold to propagate. A specific temperature range and source of food are the basic factors that must be in place, but the most important element is the presence of moisture.


Moisture can be present within building walls, ceilings, attics, and crawlspaces via:

  1. gravity
  2. capillary action
  3. air leakage
  4. diffusion

In order to minimize the potential for mold growth, a building envelope system has to meet all of the following criteria:

  • The building envelope must prevent water from penetrating. Therefore, the structure must be properly sealed and contain an effective drainage plane / rain screen.
  • The building envelope must control air leakage. Uncontrolled air leakage leads to condensation and mold growth within the building envelope. A sealed building is more of a soundproof building.
  • The components of the building should resist moisture and once wet should then have the potential to dry quickly (they should be hydrophobic). As supported by test results from leading building product laboratories, Super Soundproofing Absorbent Mat does not wick or absorb water. Moisture cannot pass through SSP mat and once dry, the product returns to its full performance value without deterioration.
  • All sound control components should be able to be installed with relative ease and should not be installation-dependent for their ultimate performance. Good results can be had by the average DIY’er or handyman.

The key to winning the war against mold is to take pre-emptive measures for the future health of your family. It’s not the materials so much as the infiltration of moisture. For more information on how to evaluate your home for susceptibility to mold infestation, check with a mold control expert.

Certain types of air purifiers are effective against established mold.

Soundproofing Resources Page, Super Soundproofing Co,

Super Soundproofing LINKS to other Resources.

Here’s a list of links and resources of interest for those of you with noise control and soundproofing issues, not in any order of importance.  This is by no means all the links on this subject on our site, but just the ones we’ve taken the time to catalog and place here for your convenience. The most recent are listed at the top.

See Soundproofing videos at the new SuperSoundproofingTube video site! Get some fame!  Upload your soundproofing, remodel videos!

The right stuff to put in your floor for airborne sound and impact noise!>[GO]

We have now combined all our books and info about soundproofing on our Books page.  Go here for a quick look-see of the material we recommend.  Some are hardcopies, some can be downloaded instantly and some are FREE!

A couple of the most popular books located there is on sound control for buildings:  Building Sound Control Try it!  Another important book is Noise Control Manual For Residential Buildings Both of these books are highly recommended as far more comprehensive than our EPA reprint.

We constantly get questions about where to get someone to do an acoustical evaluation or install material.  Check with your State building contractors license board.  Mostly, people doing this type of thing need to be licensed by the state they are in.  But, if you are willing to educate them and don’t want to do-it-yourself, almost any handyman can do the Don't Dispair!soundproofing type of insulation installation, not-with-standing many states requirements for licensing.  Some of the Builders, Internet usegroups such as and other Do-It-Yourself forums are invaluable sources of information!    To see a cost estimate of the work, check in with get-A-Quote! One of the most asked questions is answered here! How to hire a contractor. Or How To Select Soundproofing Suppliers!

We have a list of contractors in many areas, check for one near your location by calling us.

Discussion community for home remodeling, renovation and repair. Also general discussion on topics such as insurance, buying/selling and more.

Located in the UK? Here’s a site with similar products to ours, but you’ll still need our “Books”!   (and the sample kit may allow you to match up with something similar, obtainable locally!).

Another interesting link for those who want Music Rooms or you have a need to quiet your  piano?   This other site shows how to quiet the keys!

Home repair and upgrading: Best site we’ve seen so far is Jim Evans effort.  Check out the  “Computer and Office Desks” Page – the have additional resources for home improvement, too.  

We get lots of requests for info about noise-canceling, or Active Noise Reduction.  (ANR)  In Desert Storm, the enemy were astounded and dismayed when they couldn’t hear the American tanks drive right up into their camps!  That’s a link to a site on that subject.

Some of our customers have had good results by “Masking” annoying, intolerable noise with white noise generators made by MARPAC or SCAMPMASK.  Hard to see that adding more noise will relieve the noise, but to see if this will work for you, use a FM receiver tuned to between stations to see if this will tend to mask your noise source. A running fan will sometimes work, too.  A better inexpensive solution is headsets/earplugs: (Earmuffs).

Sound, noise,  legal problems?  Need help?  Try the NO-NONSENSE national clearinghouse to reduce noise pollution; They have impressive resources! Another site of interest is: The noise enforcement and code compliance experts, offering a full range of noise-related services. A link to a reading of annoyance and comparative zoning regulations is at BKL Consultants Ltd.

Our own FAQ page covers info gleaned from the old forums on the old (months ago) web site.  The other archived forums can be accessed from the Navigation sidebar. This is still very good info, just like our own current Forum.

For wet blow-in insulation, though it’s been found that it doesn’t have much sound insulation qualities, check the Nu-wool company for a dealer near you.  Don’t bother with common loose cellulose filling, it has even less  in acoustical properties!  (About the same as fiberglass insulation!) Another possibility is “Icynene”.  (They say it has “Noise reduction” but don’t say how much).  Cotton batting does!

Looking for HARD DATA about soundproofing measurements and comparisons of ratings?  Well, we don’t go into it much here on this site because it’s all relative and lab figures can be very misleading!  Materials behave differently depending on their care in installation and the surroundings. Annoyance levels are subjective and so is the materials to control them!  But if you need a noise control primer and want to look at some graphs and charts, here’s the site!

Churches usually have limited budgets, so the sound control in them may be badly handled.  Here’s some links to those specializing in this:

Church Myth: Wires for soundproofing!?

The Church Sound Discussion Group part of The Church Sound Network. Listing of appropriate books on sound systems.

Our own sound control Solutions to everyday noisy sound-proofing problems.


Products List

Soundproofing Myths You Should Know About!


Save time by avoiding these common soundproofing errors!


The video shows swatches of carpet “soundproofing” the room!”

As a service to those doing their own analysis, noise control planning and sound proofing, we’ve prepared this list of Don’t.  We can’t explore every aspect of doing a good soundproofing job, but avoiding certain materials and processes can save you lots of time and money.  Don’t waste time and money on ineffectiveness.  If you have lots of  time and wish to experiment with different techniques and unknown materials, please do so!  (and let us know how it comes out!).  Many people have made the errors mentioned here and some have been kind enough to pass them on to us for inclusion.  Please feel free to contribute!

Get Help!

If you have anything but a simple problem and the solution isn’t obvious, get help!  No need to figure this out all by yourself, it’s too easy to make expensive mistakes.  There ARE many experts doing work in this field.   Most states require them to be licensed. You can find help in the local yellow pages under “Acoustics” or check with your local building code department or state contractors license board.  For a contractor to work under your direction, locate one using the contractor locater service, such as ““,  listed at the bottom of our pages.  At least read everything on this site and better, get the EPA manual we sell here.Unless you have time and money to waste: DON’T experiment!  We’ll help you- call us!  Or we’ll even call you! (See the sidebar).

Read up on other’s experiences: see the sidebar for the “FORUM”.  Maybe your situation has been dealt with there!

Materials Problems

Some materials to avoid are:

  • common “Eggcrate” cardboard egg holders.You have no idea the number of people who tell us their trials and tribulations to find quantities of it, buy it and install it only to find it does little or no soundproofing! This appears to be because it is frequency “holy”.  That is, it has characteristics where sound at certain frequencies passes freely through it!  Some have told us that some sound transmissions seems to be somewhat enhanced!
  • foam rubber of the common sort, such as that of which rubber mattresses are made.  While this has some possibilities, other disadvantages don’t, (such as it’s durability:),  the cost isn’t all that much different than “made for soundproofing” products when so much more of it is needed to be the equivalent of professional materials. Lastly, and maybe most important is that it will burn like crazy!
  • rubber floor mat. One would think a rubber material would be a good soundproofer and perhaps it is if properly used, but simply laying it on the floor will do little against noise coming in (or going out).  Rubber and Neoprene are in the same class here.
  • old mattresses nailed to the walls.  This technique has it’s followers, but unless butted well together with no spaces, caulked edges, and only if you are willing to put up with the possible odor, mold and moisture they have or can accumulate, not to mention unwanted rodent critter type “guests” that may take up residence – are they a possibility.
  • dark paint? Yes, a lady called to check with us if what she was told was true: that painting her hallway with a dark color would perform a soundproofing job.  She had been assured it would.
  • cellulose- the kind that they “pump” into walls.  Some people make a living doing this- how?  While it’s not useless, it’s not very effective.  When you pay big money to have this done, you would want to see some serious results, not have someone say  “Well, I THINK I can tell some difference!” (Spray-on wet cellulose over opened walls may be a different matter).
  • carpet – Old or New.  Doesn’t make much difference, it will all deteriorate and begin to stink.  The newer will take longer, that’s all.  Same problems as with the Mattress as explained above. Carpet WILL increase the acoustic absorbency of a room, but do little in the way of soundproofing.  (Blocking sound coming through).
  • common fiberglass insulation: makes a great thermal insulator, but not a very good acoustical insulator. (Really!) Contrary to the hyped Lab Reports of the drywall manufacturers!
  • plywood panels/ particle board are not good for soundproofing as wood transfers sound very well.
  • hay bales Yes, these make fine soundproofing units, but are rather temporary, subject to fire, critters and vandalism and obviously for outdoor use. Plastic covering can make them more hygienic.
  • Now, our favorite myth- wires in the ceiling!?   Check this out!

Procedure Problems

Sound control is sometimes not easy to understand.  Some things that make logical, perfectly good sense don’t seem to work well in practice.  Laboratory results don’t always prove out in the field.  Field techniques can’t always be duplicated in the lab.  One area of misunderstanding is  wall space inside a wall.  Dead air space works for you, better than filling it up with something like styrofoam, etc.!  If you do, sometimes packing stuff in can make the sound transfer worse! A larger air space is superior to several smaller ones. This means a wall with 6″ studs creating a 6″ air space is superior to a wall with 4″ studs and a extra layer of drywall with 1″ air spacing on each side.

Don’t blindly accept the experiences of others who have done soundproofing before, there may be newer materials and techniques that cost less and provide more newly available.

There are standard ways of dealing with walls, floors and ceiling, but each case is different.  Because of this, different material combinations are required.  Run your plan by us, we’ll point out if it can be improved.  Use the email link below.

Soundproofing Mass Loaded Vinyl Barrier, Super Soundproofing Co™

Buy Now

Use our “SUPER” Soundproofing Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV)-  The widest selection anywhere!

NEW!  Flexible Fireproof Noise Barrier (FFNB) material for airborne Sound Control.  Now in WHITE!  


Soundproofing FloorsMLV– The ultimate noise barrier  for Flooring or Walls- almost as good as lead! (Yes we have AcoustiLead!)

Sound transfer through floors and ceilings is a continuing noise control problem, especially in older buildings. There are two main issues regarding noise transfer: airborne sound and impact noise. Each are different and require separate soundproofing treatments.  Airborne sound is most easily dealt with using MLV.

Impact noise is dealt with by using  “Super Seal” subfloor or SSP-FL or Tl.  Normally  you need both impact underlayment and MLV with a foam backing or a combination of both.  (Best to call us about our unadvertised solutions).

Use this “Mass Loaded Vinyl” barrier (MLV),  (1 Lb per Sq. Ft!), as a carpet under-layment. It’s as heavy as lead that provides a soundproofing layer on the floor and under the carpet and padding for noise control.  It is a tough, wear resistant material that may be placed on or under floating (not nailed) hard floors for slowing noise transfer above and below.   When used as an under-layment for hardwood floors or tile, it reduces sound  transfer dramatically.  Can also be used in walls and ceilings.  When installed inside the wall, it more than doubles the STC.  For instance, a standard hollow sheetrock  wall, with 1/2″ Gypsum board on metal studs has a STC rating of about 20. (Ordinary conversation through it can be understood).  Adding the MLV can increase it to about 53!  (Loud shouting is not heard).  Just staple or glue the material to the wall, then cover with another layer of sheetrock- tape off and paint.  Want more sound reduction? Use a double layer of MLV or double weight (2 Lb) material!

You can use our fireproof white MLV as a direct wall covering – inquire!

MLV is commonly used as a carpet underlayment,  one type  has a foam backing, the other doesn’t.  The foam backing mat is recommended under carpets as it provides a vibration cushion, floating the barrier just off the floor. This helps reduce footfall and impact noise.  MLV without the foam cushion would be under the subfloor or in walls and ceilings or as second layer to increase sound reduction even more.  The type with closed cell foam is far more effective than the other two types in reducing impact noise. See the reference to Dimple Pad material further down this page.

Typically used this way: seal subfloor cracks and gaps with acoustical caulk first.  Tape seams of the floor with metal tape.  Lay the MLV down, butting together joints and seal edges with metal tape.  Cover with carpet pad and carpet.  If using the one with and without foam backing together, place the foam backed material down first.  Install 90 degrees to each other.  Important!  Do not skip the step of inspecting and caulking/taping the gaps and seams of your bare subfloor!

Mass Loaded Vinyl BarrierSound control Wall


Combined with the “Double drywall” technique described in the resilient channels page, MLV provides the ultimate in sound reduction.

MLV may even be painted. (Clean well with alcohol and use vinyl or latex paint).

Fast way to get superior sound control in your apartment: and make it removable  Buy imitation wall paneling from the hardware store.  Carefully cut to fit your wall. (No gaps). Apply MLV to the back of the paneling with either contact cement or using the version with PSA. (Pressure Sensitive Adhesive).

Attach to your wall with a few finishing nails. Panels can be removed with a minimum of small holes when you move!  Tip:  Using metal tape on the walls at the place where the joints are will increase the sound blocking effectiveness of your panels. (It may be hard to remove!)

The three types of Paintable MLV we sell are the:

GOOD:  Super Soundproofing™ MLV:  STC is 26. Same as above for homes and offices, but without the foam backing.  Somewhat  less expensive at approx. $5.02 per running foot. ($1.25 per Sq. Ft). Available in 4′ widths X 30′ lengths: $1.14 Sq. Ft. or   $5.63.  per running ft. for 54″ wide Material.  Also available with peel-off adhesive backing! (Eliminates the mess and odor of adhesive and is easier to install on walls/ceilings.) Available in 2# weights too. See the buy button or better, CALL!

BETTER: Super Soundproofing™ MLV:  STC is over 26 because of the composite foam bonded to it.Useful for vehicles, too. 1/8″ thick. It has a 1/4″ open cell foam bonded to the underside to provide additional vibration isolation.    $11.22 per running foot: (54″ wide). ($2.49 per Sq Ft). PN 09-00004-F   30′ Roll: $258.75 09-00004-1.

BEST: We also have Super Soundproofing™ MLV- Has a better STC as well as a IIC rating.same as above but with 1/4″ closed cell foam bonded to the MLV for superior noise damping and blocking. $15.93 per running foot: (48″ wide). ($3.61 per Sq Ft). PN 09-00005CC-54F  30′ Roll: $433.20 PN 09-00005CC-54R    [BUY]

Flammability:  These Versions  meets certain UL and building Department requirements but are not completely FAA approved for certified aircraft. (Homebuilt OK).  We do now have a certain MLV that meet Firecode regulations- inquire!

Use MLV under machinery, speakers  and health / exercise machines for noise control into and through the floor!  You’ll need at least a 3′-4′ margin of Mass Loaded Vinyl barrier around your running machine to reduce flanking sound from penetrating down through the floor.  Special dimple Vibration pads will help here too!

Another use we discovered is to lay panels of the “MLV” (loaded vinyl barrier with a foam backing),  inside/above a dropped acoustical tile ceiling.  The material needs to be cut so that it overlaps each adjacent layer by a few inches.  This is done by cutting a  length of the 54″ wide material long-ways into two 4’X2’3″ sections.  These will then cover  two 2’X4′ sections of the dropped ceiling tiles with an overlap.  Start with a run of ceiling tiles in place against the walls and caulk the seam at the wall in place using our non-hardening caulk. (See our “Products” page). Cut a slit in the panels with a knife or scissors to clear the suspension wires and caulk the cut seam and the area where the  wire passes through with a heavy blob of caulk.  Before starting this job, evaluate the strength of the wires holding the ceiling up.  If need be, add wires to reinforce the suspension system.  Bear in mind this mat weighs one pound per square foot and the ceiling support wires may not be  normally stressed for this kind of weight.  (But we’ve found most are overly wired and are OK).

Things to keep in mind:  Be sure to cover the entire area, caulking gaps and seams to prevent air flow that will carry sound. Have someone  help to cut panels and hand them up. This will make it much easier while working standing on a ladder inside the ceiling area.. If the walls of the room do not extend up through the ceiling to the roof, consider adding higher walls to the “stub” walls so as to prevent flanking sound from passing through  and over  from the adjoining ceiling.

Tip: lay out the material and leave overnight to let it flatten and to prevent curl and  billow type bubbles due to uneven expansion.  This is an inert material and has no ability to outgas.

Dimple Pad: Now, a product for reducing impact noise for under hardwood and tile floors!: SUPER-SEAL:  “Sub-Floor -Plus”  floor underlayment. At last! A dimpled product that reduces impact noise created by walking on hardwood or tile floors. It’s just 3/8″ thick, comes in rolls 6’6″ wide. Just $1.85 per sq. ft. (You’ll need a combination of this and MLV too if there is an issue with airborne noise).  VIDEO

We have yet another product that combines impact and airborne sound control in one composite membrane.

Tips for new construction or renovation of floors:

The subfloor is the culprit in sound transfer.  Sometimes it’s not thick enough, or strong enough, (where thin subfloor panels are used over floor joists that are spaced too widely for the thickness of subflooring).  Or where the subfloor is improperly attached with too few fasteners or just nailed.  (Use screws!)  If your floor joists are exposed, now is the time to forestall problems in the future.  As a minimum, use our green Sound Isolation Tape to tape the faces of the joists/subfloor joints  to help prevent squeaks and to reduce sound transfer into the joists. It comes in 1-7/16″,  2″ or 3″ widths for this purpose.  You can apply the tape easily by hand.

Better, buy the 2′ or 4′ wide material (yes, that’s 2 “Feet” and 4 “Feet” wide!), similar to “Green Glue”. to cover the underside of the entire sub-floor panel.  This will add dampening to the panel, reducing the resonant “boom” when walking on the floor.  We have that, too – Inquire!

All these tapes come with a peel off backing for easy, clean, no-mess adhesive application.  

A less expensive, more labor intensive method is to glue  1/8″ or 1/4″ closed cell acoustical foam to the underside of your sub-floor panels. (Cost: About $1 per sq. ft.)

This also works well for drywall panels, too.

There are many ways to use these sound barrier underlayment materials in combination- for maximum results call us to help you tailor your installation for your specific needs. 760 752 3030 8-5 PST 5 Days

New!  “FFNB”  Flexible Fireproof  Noise Barrier.  Concerned about flammability  of MLV? – use FFNB instead – CALL!

For fully floated floors:  CALL! 



Bay Area Noise Control CA. ST. LIC. 785260 Member ASA & CISCA

Windows , Consultation Services , Floors , Ceilings , Walls , Mechanical/Electrical ,


You were great to work with from our first meeting, to all the follow-up calls and e-mails. All of our questions

were answered honestly and in a timely fashion, you stayed in touch with us and up until the end made sure the

windows were put in correctly. I really appreciate all your personal service, patience, and professionalism.

Lee, you were terrific to work with and I definitely will recommend you to anyone asking me about windows

in general or soundproofing in particular.

Noe Valley Home Owner, San Francisco


I would like to offer my wholesale recommendation of Lee Brenner.

My goals were to improve the appearance of my home, to conserve energy, and to reduce noise (the

street car passes by our home).

Lee did a truly outstanding job, and what really set him apart was his meticulous attention to detail.

Lee work crew proved friendly and competent. I would hire him again in a second!

My neighbor is doing new windows, and I recommended you €¦ You did a great job!

John, Sunset, San Francisco


Hi Lee

I think that Don and family are really happy with the Noise Control Windows in the bedroom

it makes a difference heat-wise also, so they are very happy chappies! I hope you are doing well,

and not too busy! Take some time and enjoy the sunshine!

Michelle Bartley, Personal Assistant to Don Johnson, Pacific Heights, San Francisco



Wow! What a difference €¦ Now it is €œtoo quiet€ in our bedroom, (on busy Haight St.) …

I can’t sleep. I’m sure I will get use to it! Your installers were friendly and efficient. I appreciate

their help in re-hanging the roller shades. Through the process of this Victorian renovation,

dealing with you has been one of the few pleasures.

Rob and Lou, San Francisco


Dear Lee,

This is just a note to thank you for my new noise-reducing windows and the services you provided.

The windows in wood encasings are absolutely beautiful and function as you described they would.

I would especially like to thank your crew for the professional installation and manners. I look forward

to working with you on my garage door noise and vibration-project. Thanks again.

Ron, Potrero Hill/Mission, San Francisco



Just wanted to let you know that your workman left and completed all the final work to my total satisfaction.

Arleen, San Bruno


Lee and crew,

All is fine with the windows and I’m very happy with the way things turned out. Thanks again and thanks

too for your thorough follow-up.

Sharel, Peninsula


Thank you very much for the secondary windows! We€™re really happy with them.

Colleen, Union City


RE: My new windows [Standard Dual Pane with Laminated glass option] €¦

After you all left yesterday, I was finally able to relax and listen to the sounds of the street. It actually is

quieter in the house. Thank you. When I was reading my son to sleep, it felt much more peaceful and

cozy. It did not feel like the cars were in the room with us. The sounds are still there of course,

but they are much duller and much more unobtrusive background sounds. Thank you for taking

such good care of us.



Just wanted to let you know that we are extremely happy with the noise abatement

project you did for us. The windows look great. They keep out the noise problem we had. What I

really appreciate was your helping customize a solution that really worked for us. Of all the home

remodeling projects we did, we were happiest by far with your company’s work.


Lum, San Bruno



Front window looks better than I imagined. It looks like the old traditional window casing so my wife

was happy. Clean and efficient and in one day. Couldn’t be happier.

Acoustic Windows, Napa, Silverado Trail


Hi Lee,

Yes, the noise reduction [special noise control windows] is quite impressive thank you!

Nick, Laurel Village, San Francisco



Your team did a first class job on the window replacement. We are thrilled with the result and would

be happy to offer our enthusiastic recommendation for your work. We will certainly contact you when

it’s time to do our rear windows! The quality of your work is obvious and it is a great comfort to us

knowing that the work was done well.

George, Great Hwy, San Francisco


Hi Lee,

I wanted you to know that the windows are great and the noise is

significantly reduced in the two bedrooms. I’m really happy with them. Thanks!

Joani, Dolores Park area, San Francisco

Hi Lee,

The inspector signed off today with no problems. I think that does it!

Thank you again for everything you’ve done. We sure are glad we went

with your work €¦ having quality windows is especially comforting

now that winter really has begun! Once our checkbook recharges, we

will definitely be in touch regarding replacing the rear windows, where noise control will be a serious


If you’d like us to provide a reference for your work, don’t hesitate to ask.

Thanks again.

George, NASA-Ames Research Center, Ocean Beach, San Francisco


Hi Lee,

I wanted you to know that the windows are great and the noise is significantly reduced in the two bedrooms.

I’m really happy with them. Thanks!

Mission District, San Francisco


The new soundproof windows have tremendously improved our lives. I can now sleep through the night!

The sound of the neighbors€™ dogs has been reduced dramatically and is no longer invasive. We finally

have peace and quiet and can relax in our home. We are so glad that we found you!

Kristina and Robert, Mission Terrace, San Francisco


Hi Lee,

Wallace and his partner did a nice job [with secondary windows] and it has, as you promised, made a big
difference … I’m thrilled.
Gretchen, San Francisco


love the stillness of the day! 🙂
Ruth, Noe Valley, San Francisco


Windows , Consultation Services , Floors ,
Ceilings , Walls , Mechanical/Electrical ,

Consultation Services

Mr. Brenner,

Thank you for your educational visit yesterday. As a result of your visit,

the powers that be have decided to shuffle people around and supply two

separate offices for our interviewers. Thank you for your suggestions and

price quotes, but you do not have to research the items we had discussed.

Your consultation was money well spent!

Non-profit offices, Oakland

Lee, Thank you again for your very thorough and enlightening consultation.

Maurine, renter, Western Addition, San Francisco


Thanks again for the consultation, I learned a lot and felt I got my

money worth.

San Jose

Thanks so much for the informative presentation. We are still in the process of deciding which
solution will be best for us and how soon we will want to proceed. At any rate, we feel much more
comfortable knowing we have been well-informed and will be able to make an educated decision
about what is right for us. Thanks so much for your time.
Stacey, San Francisco


Thanks again for your help — the [phone] consultation was extremely useful. I may have additional
questions as things move forward, and if so, I will give you a call!

Alaine Perry, M.D.


Lee, thanks for the consultatation today and the list of options you have at hand. I certainly learned a
lot and have quite a bit to think about here.

I will read the materials you sent along tomorrow morning. Chances are, I will have a few questions
for you coming out of that. (You know, a better educated consumer is a better consumer)

Nice to meet you today and I hope that we can do some business
John Heins, San Francisco and New York



Windows , Consultation Services , Floors ,
Ceilings , Walls , Mechanical/Electrical ,


Hey, Lee! I’m happy to report that I hear hardly any noise from my upstairs neighbors. Things have worked

out really well. I can give you this testimonial now that I’ve had ample experience with the special

underlayment you supplied for the upstairs floor.

Rose, Glen Park, San Francisco


The premium underlayment you placed under my new carpet in my upstairs rental apartment to control

the noise from entering my residence below really blocked the airborne noise and reduced the impact

noise substantially. Everything worked very well, as you said it would.

Dick, Castro, San Francisco



We are loving the new carpet with special noise mats and the noise reduction.

Olivia, North Point, San Francisco


Those stairs are amazing! I can’t even hear myself walk! Thanks for all your hard work and follow-through.

Landlord, Glenn Park, San Francisco


Windows , Consultation Services , Floors ,
Ceilings , Walls , Mechanical/Electrical ,



The work seems to have done the trick [noise control ceiling].

I’m generally happy with everything especially the soundproofing,

which was the main thing. The crown molding was a nice touch and makes the rooms look much better.

Ted, Palo Alto



We are very pleased with the results we can hear barely a sound between the two bedrooms

(one above and one below). Thanks again.


We both are very appreciative of your attention to all this. Michael commented the other day how unlike working with you is from working with most contractors, and he’s worked with quite a few in his work. Thank you so much.

Judith and Michael, Mission District, San Francisco


Hi Lee,

So far, we definitely think that it is an improvement. When they are in their bedroom above ours,

we haven’t heard them talking, TV etc. When they are in the hall or the room adjacent to the

bedroom, their voices are transmitted to the bedroom. Closing the bedroom and den doors help

quite a bit. Overall, we are very happy with the soundproofing and definitely wish to inquire

about doing the same thing to our den (adjacent to the bedroom). We are also interested in

some options for the hall ceiling near our bedroom.

Laura, San Francisco


Good news, still haven’t been kept awake by my neighbor €¦ seems like I would have by now if it was going to happen.

Tiffany, San Francisco


Dear Lee,
I am writing to let you know that Prescott and I are very pleased with the ceiling soundproofing
you did in our place last September.

We have the resources now to pursue having our den done in the same way. Please let us know
how you would like to proceed.
Mission District, San Francisco



, Windows , Consultation Services , Floors ,
, Ceilings , Walls , Mechanical/Electrical ,


Wow! What a great, helpful and thorough reply! Thank you so much, Lee. I will work on implementing your ideas, and REALLY appreciate your generosity.

Psychology Offices, Potrero Hill, San Francisco


Hi Lee,

I would like to express my appreciation regarding the sound wall and isolators that you had recommended for my laundromat. The combination works very well, and my neighbor [with a common wall] is pleased with the result. Also, your time and effort through out this project is appreciated, I would not hesitate to refer or recommend your services to any potential clients

you may have.

Laundromat Owner, Noe Valley, San Francisco



It is now some months since you installed the sound deadening materials on the front of my office. The construction across the street is proceeding.

Last week there were, at one point, five cement mixers lined up in front, awaiting their turn to pour forth into the building site. We could hear the racket inside, but it was €œsound€ rather than €œnoise,€ as hoped. I am very pleased with the results. I am often in the back of my office, but patients wait in the front, and my office manager sits and works in front. She is a musician, and is very happy with the decreased noise.

She had been, as you may recall, particularly apprehensive about the nearby construction.

We’ve not been through a winter yet, but I have noted that we’re cooler inside on the hot fall days, as well. A happy customer.

Dr. Hennie, San Francisco Mission District Doctors€™ Office


Dear Lee,

The job looks great. Thanks for all your hard work. We are very happy that the job

is completed and that you had the technical knowledge to do exactly what was needed

to be done. Thanks!


Re: Acrylic Noise Panel

Thanks, noise level has been greatly reduced.

Lily, Marina District, San Francisco

Thanks for adding the additional soundproofing to my bedroom wall. After

your crew left my home, with the work completed promptly and a fastidious

clean up, I was anxious for my neighbors to get home so I could hear how

well the new noise control €œworked.€ I waited for three days, but they didn’t

come home. I ran into my neighbor in the entry hall on the forth day, and

it turns out they’d been home all along. I guess the noise control worked.

Count me as a satisfied customer. Thanks.

Town home/condo, Russian Hill, San Francisco

Work turned out nice [noise control wall] and crew was neat and cleaned up after themselves. Thanks!



Our painter, who maintains a very high standard, said that the plastering of

the wall, [after a Noise Control modification to such wall] which included coving between it and the ceiling, was very well done.

Mr. B., Noe Valley, San Francisco


Dear Lee,

I wanted to thank you and your team for doing a wonderful job insulating our house. Your attention to detail and extra little items such as plugging the front door peep hole and skylight cleaning and sealing were a very nice touch. If you ever need a recommendation, please let me know. Your team was professional and did a nice job cleaning up afterwards. Your pricing was better than the other two estimates as well! Thanks again.

Troy, Sunset District, San Francisco


, Windows , Consultation Services , Floors ,
, Ceilings , Walls , Mechanical/Electrical ,


Dear Lee,

The handyman, Mark shut off the power that goes to the phones and transformer in my closet and the buzzing noise was gone. Thus, your diagnosis about the transformer seems to be correct. We’re currently working on a system to change the doorbell to a phone-based system so that the transformer would no longer be necessary and can be removed. Just thought you’d like to hear the good news.

Gail, The Castro, San Francisco

We are enjoying our quiet apartment!

Catherine, Pacific Heights, San Francisco


Read about other soundproofing problems and solutions!  Click on the “Forums”



HOME-OWNERS: Professional On-Site Noise Control Evaluations AND CONSTRUCTION SERVICES!

Residential Noise Control Specialists

  • Office/Commercial Improvements

Evaluation of noise problems:

  • Airborne (Traffic, stereo, voices, music)
  • Impact (foot-falls, machinery vibration)
  • Reflective (reverberation in offices, gyms, sound studios)


  • Cavity Space
  • Mass
  • De-coupling
  • Different Densities
  • Tightness of Fit

Typical Remedial Situations:

  • Traffic Noise – windows
  • Condo neighbors – Walls/Ceilings
  • Between separate offices
  • Isolation from machinery
  • Bars/Restaurants isolation from mixed usebuildings

Construction Services: A Super Soundclip authorized installer!

  • Walls
  • Floors
  • Ceilings
  • Windows
  • Doors

We’ll drive or fly to you to help you solve problems! Inquire!

Information about  BAY AREA NOISE CONTROL: We are a independent consulting firm, (and a licensed acoustical contractor)   located in the San Francisco, California Bay Area and  are offering a full range of services for large and small projects.

More Details:

Established in 1983, our staff’s experience in consulting dates back many years.  From a practical basis, we have provided consulting services, (products and constructions), in acoustics and systems design to architects, (homeowners, engineers, (property) managers and building owners, (condo and TIC associations) for a range of architectural, environmental, and industrial projects.  Some of our past architectural projects include homes, office buildings, schools, hotels, recording studios, performing arts facilities, theatres, churches, laboratory, industrial and medical facilities.

Our Services:

We provide consulting services suited to the particular needs of the client.  Our consultants assist the architect or (direct) other clients in developing a total solution (if desired) that integrates acoustics, sound system, with other architectural and engineering considerations.  Our projects have included work on the initial design of facilities as well as noise control modifications. We’re remodeling and retro fit specialists.  Services include establishment of appropriate sound and vibration criteria, analysis of system needs, preparation of initial recommendations, detailed system design documentation (plans and specifications), on-site acoustical measurement and analysis, bid review, construction observation and reporting, and final system testing and adjustment.  Because we maintain a comprehensive range of precision test equipment, sound and vibration measurements may also be conducted when appropriate.

What’s your most important soundproofing question you’d like to ask us? (Use this form to get a very, very quick reply 24X7!) If you leave your number, we'll even call you! Get an even quicker answer: Call us toll free! 888-942-7723 8-5 Pacific time.

We don't use contact info for any other purpose. Never have, never will.

Your Name

Your Email
Verify Email

Your Phone

Comment or Question:


Our soundproofing solutions have helped thousands of our clients! They can work for you, too!

floors and ceilings Our walk-in soundproofing store is located at 455 EAST CARMEL ST, SAN MARCOS, CA. 92078 -- Open 8-5 Weekdays. Saturdays 'till Noon! Location Map & Street View. Nearby Airports: San Diego, Palomar (Carlsbad), (Coaster, too!) Oceanside, Fallbrook, Temecula (Rancho California: French Valley). Call for pickup! (888) 942-7723 Se Hable Espanol!