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Archive for the ‘How To Do It’ Category

Sound Control in Walls

Sound Control Walls: Construction Options

Making the Right Choice for soundproofing walls, floors and ceilings

For residential sound control, there are more than a half-dozen ways to increase the noise reduction of interior walls.

  • Acoustical Caulking
  • Sound Control Insulation
  • Double Layers of Drywall
  • Resilient Channels- Soundclips, etc
  • Staggered Stud Construction
  • Double Wall Construction
  • Soundboard, Wonderboard, etc.

Sound control is most efficient when two or more methods are used together. There are many possible combinations of these six techniques. How does one choose which to use?

The table below lists typical STC values for a variety of construction types. It also shows the improvement in noise reduction provided by the different sound control options for soundproofing walls, floors and ceilings, using as a baseline the most basic wall construction of studs and drywall with no caulking. Notice that a wall with an STC value of 50 ( studs, drywall, resilient channels, sound control insulation ) provides four times more sound reduction than the basic wall with an STC value of 30.

Type of Construction STC Value Improvement
Studs/ Drywall/ No Caulking 30 (MAX) 1 (baseline)
All remaining Types include Caulking
Studs- Drywall 35 1.42
Studs- Double Drywall One Side 37 1.63
Studs- Drywall-Sound Control Insulation 39 1.87
Studs- Double Drywall One Side – SC Insulation 41 2.15
Studs- Drywall- Resilient Channels 42 2.3
Studs- Double Drywall One Side -Resilient Channels 45 2.84
Studs- Drywall- Resilient Channels -SC Insulation 50 4.0
Staggered Studs- Drywall- SC Insulation 51 4.3
Studs-Double Drywall 1side-Res Channel-SC Insul. 52 4.6
Staggered Studs-Double Drywall 1Side-SC Insul. 53 4.94
Double Wall- Double Sound Control Insulation 59 7.46

Remember that STC values are based on the number of decibels of transmitted sound reduced by the wall. Just as a 50 dB sound is four times louder than a 30 dB sound, a 50 STC wall is four times quieter than a 30 STC wall.

Using the values shown in this table and factoring in costs and construction time, three sound control combinations stand out as the most logical choices for soundproofing walls, floors and ceilings:
1) Studs, drywall, caulking, sound control insulation;
2) Studs, drywall, caulking, resilient channels or SoundClips, sound control insulation; and
3) Staggered studs, drywall, caulking, sound control insulation.

soundproofing walls This resilient channel is shown in it’s proper position with the large flange up and with sound absorbing tape applied to the facing.





Soundproofing Aircraft Cabin Booklet

buy now
SOUND PROOFING LIGHT AIRCRAFT (and other stuff too!) Printable Version


I first put these ideas down in 1990, in the form of an instruction sheet we handed out with the Super Sound Proofing mat. Over the years we’ve added more to them, mostly by feedback from users of the product and printed thousands of these little booklets.

You are invited to pass back your experiences with this and the other products that have been added to our arsenal in the fight against noise. We’ve now got acoustical foam materials to be used in Boats, Trucks and Cars as well as new materials used in Architectural applications for home movie rooms, sound studios, gyms, industrial as well as for band practice in the garage!

Our first specialty is aircraft applications as it is the most challanging! We are always available for free consulting at anytime for any application, to help you with what we know about methods and materials for soundproofing.

We provide free copies to groups and associations, just let us know how many you need.

© Copyright /1998/ 2014 by Bill Nash – all rights reserved. Reprint rights granted when full credit is given.


Much has been discussed as well as written about the noisiness of aircraft – inside and out. Because of these valid concerns, sound measurements have been made that indicate that sometimes the noise levels are so high in some aircraft that damage to the hearing over the long term can and indeed does, result. Elaborate techniques now exist to drastically reduce such noise. While time and expense are important considerations, installing soundproofing is not a luxury; it is an investment in the physical well-being of the flyers in addition to a valuable upgrade of the aircraft. Information presented here is applicable to all types of planes from “puddle-jumpers” to jets. The addendum to this booklet has info regarding other vehicles as well as business, shop and office.

In a properly soundproofed airplane, the radio can be used with speaker and hand mike, instead of only the headsets. You will even enjoy better direct communications between passengers and will not have to worry about damage to your hearing. Contrary to popular belief, wearing headsets will not protect your hearing much. After being properly soundproofed, using the latest space age materials, the noise level in most aircraft will be so low you’ll probably be able to have conversations in normal tones. You’ll wonder why you ever put up with all the noise before. The quieter aircraft will seem to have gained quality and feel more solid and plusher. Such an improvement should not be considered costly.

Before we tell you how to accomplish this, we will discuss some commonly used materials for sound attenuation. Also, keep in mind that soundproofing involves two (2) concepts that require two different materials:

Sound absorption, and

Sound blocking, or barrier material.

Vibration of the airframe, penetration of sound into the cabin from the engine/prop and airflow over the airframe are three distinct effects and you need to use the proper materials to control them. We have found the ordinary “foam rubber” and fiberglass batting as supplied by the aircraft manufacturers to be virtually worthless.

“Super Soundproofing™” Mat for Sound Absorption:

It is a closed cell vinyl/nitrile insulating material which will not absorb water or oil. Materials that absorb liquids are not suitable because if they get wet, they will promote corrosion and increase their weight. The mat also conserves and blocks heat because it is an insulator. It has fire retardant qualities and we have the manufacturer’s assurance that, in thicknesses over 1/8″, it meets the requirements of FAR 25.853b. Therefore, it is suitable for aircraft use.

It is available in 48″ widths in thicknesses of 1/8, 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 3/4 and 1 inch. It may easily be cemented together to make other thicknesses.

The Noise Mat Barrier:

If one were to make a mat of sound absorbing material rather thicker and use a metal barrier inside it, it would be very effective in really stopping engine noise coming through the firewall. So if ordinary kitchen Reynolds Aluminum Foil is sandwiched between the mats, (use contact cement), most of that noise will be prevented from entering the cabin. A 2″ minimum total thickness is recommended.

Finish Cloths and Vinyls: These are available from your local automotive upholstery wholesaler in a myriad of thicknesses and colors. Most types of automotive materials meet some auto industry inflammability requirements, but perhaps not specifically those as applied to aviation. It is the duty of the installer to make sure that applicable F.A.R.s are complied with.

For aircraft applications, you would be interested in thin vinyl materials such as used for automobile headliners and durable cloths that have a thin foam backing. These can easily be drawn tight and contact cemented to the above described soundproofing mats (or metal backing panels), to produce very attractive, professionally finished surfaces. The use of contact cement in spray cans simplifies application. A heat gun (hair dryer) and some moisture will shrink out most wrinkles.

Other types of soundproofing materials.

A mention should be made here of some popular materials marketed by others. One is a white foam material that is provided in a kit, specially cut for each aircraft it is designed for…. It has contact cement on one side with a peel-off covering and comes with a diagram as to where each piece fits into the aircraft. This is a very expensive proposition because all this prep work has been done for you and you are charged accordingly. A lot of time is wasted trying to find where each piece fits. These kits can run up to $3000 per aircraft (and more) plus installation.

Another one is a lead-backed material developed for the military. It is so expensive and heavy it would not be a contender for installation in light aircraft, even airliners, even though it can sometimes be found surplus. Other materials are either not F.A.A. approved, not closed cell material or are far more costly than our proven Super Sound Proofing Mat! Check carefully before you buy!

Installation Considerations

Each aircraft has its “hot spots”. That’s certain areas where noise is the loudest. A good soundproofing job would concentrate on these places that are the noisiest by placing more material there. However, in general, the places in a light plane that admit sound most readily are the firewall, cowl forward of the windshield/instrument panel, kickpanels, sidewalls of the cabin, roof and wing-roots. But the honor of the most noisy goes to the windows! When replacing windows, use the thickest material you can.

A thorough soundproofing job would place heavier layers of materials where the sound was the loudest, near the front and lighter insulation aft. The entire cabin should receive the treatment, above, below and all around including doors.

In an aircraft that has been flying, the best time to put in this material is when the interior has been removed. Then it can be installed with a minimum of effort. However, an installation can be made piecemeal. That is, section by section, as the budget or time allows, with steadily improving results as more and more of the cabin area is insulated. Some installers might do the doors on a weekend, the firewall on another, etc. In all cases, investigate thoroughly for evidence of corrosion or other damage before applying any batting that might cover it up.

While we cannot provide explicit instructions for each and every aircraft, we can give you some general pointers to insure a good, effective job.

Installation; Soundproofing Mat

Cut your material to precise size and shape beginning with the largest area.

The material comes in different thicknesses to be cut to fit inside and to fill the formers and frames, cabin sides and ceiling. (See diagrams). We do not recommend using razor blades or knives. They will leave ragged edges. Cut it with an electric knife, the kind that is used for carving turkeys. We use a Hamilton Beach battery-powered unit. These are inexpensive home appliance models. The rechargeable feature is handy where an AC plug-in isn’t available, such as out on the aircraft ramp tie down area. Cut material a little over-sized so that it fits inside the former or frame with a push tight fit. It comes with a smooth “skin” side and a rougher side. Either side can be cemented but the smooth side is more suitable. A dab of contact cement here and there will ensure that it stays put, but it should fit well enough so that is quite tight. If the area you are covering is rather large, apply a coating of Super Sound Proofing Liquid and allow to dry first.

Use waterproof contact cement. Do not overdo the cementing because you may want to remove the material someday to look for corrosion, run wires, etc. Use judicious dabs of cement. Use a brush for this. You must put soundproofing every place where the inside of the skin is exposed, especially on the firewall and inside the upper instrument cowling and kick panel sides forward of the windshield. If it’s difficult to cut and fit the material directly because of obstructions, make a little cardboard pattern by which to cut and fit the material.

Take your time. Don’t get into a hurry. Make it fit as neatly as possible. It goes without saying the material is to be installed only on the cabin side of the firewall! If the firewall is covered with some kind of decorative mickey mouse firewall covering, or fiberglass batting, remove it. It may then be reinstalled, but it’s probably better to just leave it off.

Use the bits and pieces left over to insulate the smaller remaining spaces.

Material can be contact cemented together to make larger pieces, so not much need be wasted. Window frames and ‘U’ channels can simply be pushed full of the scraps. Leftovers can also be used in the floor access panels by gluing them on the underside of the covers, then reinstalling the panels and access covers. If you have some left over, it’s worth it to glue it to the inside of the belly access covers too. Every place sound can enter should be covered as much as possible, but installing the material everywhere inside the underside of the floor many times isn’t practical. Don’t worry, even without that, the sound reduction will be very impressive. If your plane is apart for repairs or overhaul, or an experimental under construction, a more complete job can be done.


If your aircraft has ‘snap-in’ metal or fiberglass upholstery panels that are held in frames, we have had great success with the following method which uses 1/2″ or thinner mat material:

Remove all such panels. Or, if you don’t have them, make some.

Cut your mat materials a bit over-sized. Then carefully cement a 1/2″ layer of material to the inside backside of the panel. Leave the edge of the soundproofing around the edge slightly loose so that it can slide over the inside flange of the mounting frame. Here, because these panels are nonstructural, and inspection won’t be necessary, a full even coating of contact cement on both the panel and mat and then assembly will ensure that the material will not come loose, ever.

2. Cut and fit thinner insulation material to the inside skin areas same as the application of the material detailed previously.

The idea here is to create a sound deadened boxed-in area with a dead-air space between the two insulation layers. This is very effective and lighter, but requires more time and effort.

For First Time Construction

Those of you building experimentals will have good results by just using the material on the inside of the cockpit area as explained. However, in addition, if you wish to make removable upholstery panels as mentioned above, here’s how:

Using either very thin aluminum sheet (.015″ is a

good thickness), or very thin fiberglass sheet (some call it “tank Liner”), a bit thicker, cut it to the size of the area you wish to cover. Don’t try to make the area to be covered too large or make the panel with curved edges or with compound curves. The squarer, the better.

Pop rivet aluminum “T” “H” or “C” channel,(obtainable from the Reynolds Aluminum stock rack at your favorite hardware store) to the structure of the area that your panel will be mounted. Cut, fit and trim it so that a fairly loose fit of all four sides of your panel is obtained. The channel you use must have a slot wide enough that will accept the panel and the folded over upholstery material at its edge. It must not fit so tightly that it can’t be snapped in or out of place by bowing it. If needed, an upholstery ‘snap button’ can be judiciously placed to hold it tightly.

Now, evenly glue 1/8″ or 3/16″ soundproofing mat to what is to be the front side of the panel, leaving about an even 1/2″ or 3/4″ or so, open area up to the edges. This will make a cushioned panel when covered with your automotive finish cloth or vinyl. Lay this upholstery finish covering material over your panel, using it as a pattern and cut it 2-3″ oversize. Applying a coating of “Plio-Bond” (or several coats of contact cement) to the metal or plastic then allowing it to dry, will provide a proper base for gluing material to the back edge of your panel. Lay the panel, with soundproof mat down, on the backside of the finish sheet and cement it down to the back of the panel, pulling the wrinkles on the front out gently. Do not glue to the front at all. If you start with the contact cement slightly wet, you can work out the wrinkles very easily. When dry, trim the backside material away evenly and neatly with a razor blade. Leave about 3/4″ holding it. This creates a smooth, cushioned panel that will snap into your aluminum frame very professionally, better than in factory planes! You may use thin 1/8″ foam rubber available from the upholstery shop instead of the soundproof mat. Put the soundproof mat on the back side of the panel as explained earlier or, even better, to both sides of your panel AND the inside structure for additional “Super” soundproofing.

You can simply wrap the mat with your upholstery finish sheeting, just gluing it to the back edge of the smooth backside, then gluing the panel in place. The spray on kind of contact cement is very useful here. You can spray and attach it directly to the smooth side if you wish. A little extra attention to the corners of your finish material will be worthwhile for a neat job. A glue like “GOOP” works very well for this.

Larger Aircraft such as Airliners.

Cabin walls will need to be insulated thoroughly in the manner explained above. Many times soundproofing of these types of aircraft is usually done perfunctorily by workers who have no idea what it’s all about. Without some knowledge and careful attention to detail the consequence is a soundproofing job that is not very effective.

A Special Note About Helicopters

An application of the thickest material available (we can supply it up to 2″ thick and these thicknesses may be contact cemented together for even thicker) installed between the rear cabin and engine/transmission will result in a definite, noticeable noise reduction. Most of the time this is easy to do as these areas are usually quite accessible. It may also be cemented to the inside upper bubble, seat backs and in the underside floor areas for even better results. This may not have a totally silencing effect on the flying noise, but can make conversation possible when on the ground without having to reduce power or use the intercom. The best results will be had by then cementing a layer of Reynolds Aluminum “Noise Barrier’ into the mat as was explained.

The Federal Trade Commission says that there are no existing test methods or standards devised to prove the flammability of any material. Or are there accurate indicators of the performance of cellular plastic materials under actual fire conditions. Almost any material will burn under the “right” conditions. The test procedures of F.A.R. 853.b, U.L. 94 or “Class A” are intended only as measurements of the performance of materials under specific controlled conditions. These tests generally mean the material will burn, but not support a flame, or will not support an flame but will create smoke. You can get a good idea about any material you intend to use by burning a scrap of it with a match. Materials used by aircraft manufacturer’s years ago may not even meet present day “standards.” Generally, if a person is responsible for returning a certified aircraft to service as a shop or mechanic, he should use materials that are FAA approved and follow approved procedures. If it is in the experimental category, you can use whatever you wish. For certified aircraft, a letter is included here in this booklet certifying that it meets requirements of F.A.R 25.853b(3). One may wish to place the letter in the aircraft logbook.

Sound Proofing Ratings. We haven’t provided charts and graphs here because these theoretical ratings are pretty much meaningless in the real world.

However, there are useful methods of judging the effectiveness of a soundproofing material by measuring it’s absorption and transmissibility properties.

Weight, How Far To Go

There is a weight penalty, of course. The Super Soundproofing™ Mat weighs from .10 pound for the 1/8″ to .7 pounds for the 1″ material. (Per sq. ft.) A roll of the popular 1/2″ X 50′ (200 sq. ft.) mat weighs about 50 Lbs. Obviously, if you put it all in your plane, that’s what the weight increase will be, less, of course whatever you pulled out. Generally it takes about 3/4 of a roll of 1/2″ mat to do a good job on an aircraft such as a Cessna 182. (about 30 Lbs).

Such weights are not much of a consideration in a heavy twin, but can mean a lot in an ultralight. Common sense counts here. If a few extra pounds of soundproofing, perhaps even combined with an attractive interior offends your pocketbook or sensibilities, perhaps an additional investment would be made in noise-canceling headsets for everyone! In such a case, your wallet will be the one undergoing a dramatic weight reduction! And you thought acoustical material was expensive! Remember, headsets will not protect your hearing in the long term. In general, even a little material is better than none. Here usually, more is better, is the rule.


The neatness and care that is taken to ensure a good, tight fit and thorough application and covering of the inside skin areas around the cabin will determine the effectiveness of your soundproofing job. There is just so much you can do as a lot of sound is still going to come in the windows. Flat acrylic sheets can be bought from a plastics wholesaler and cut to fit much cheaper than buying pre-cut windows. Those of you that are building experimentals, overhauling or rebuilding aircraft, should consider additional methods of sound reduction i.e. replacing plexiglass windows and windshields with the thickest possible material available (up to 3/8″). Our tests have shown that there is no advantage to using any thicker material. Plexiglas edges of thicker plastic window material can be trimmed down with a router to still fit in the original thinner frames and is well worth the extra trouble.

Also, a fiberglass firewall batting cover fitted on the engine side will also help quiet single engine aircraft. This can be fabricated by your upholstery shop out of heat resistant materials. Cutouts for wiring and other necessary openings through the firewall can be closed by velcro fastenings and is well worth the additional cost and effort.

Loose fitting fairings causing gaps between the wing and fuselage in high wing aircraft can generate lots of wind noise. This must be stopped. An easy way to do this is by using a caulking gun filled with white weatherproof silicone caulk. (Use clear if your paint in that area is not white!) For best results, apply it wet while the fuselage/wing joining cover is off. Clean up with water. First tucking soundproofing mat firmly between the wing/root and the fuselage will really help. This is usually not a problem in low wing planes, but should be investigated.

A noisy door because of a gap in its frame can mean the seal needs replacement or if the door cannot be made to fit properly, (try some very careful bending!), perhaps even a inflatable door seal. There are dealers for inflatable door seal kits for many types of aircraft and such kits can be adapted to most others.

Super Sound Proofing Liquid!

This is a lightweight insulating material designed to add mass to metal surfaces thereby reducing reverberant sound. Several coats can be built up to suit sound proofing need. It also acts as a sound absorption/barrier where mat cannot be applied. Use it in tailcones, under flooring panels, on firewalls and in corners mat cannot go. Brush on, available in half-pints, pints, quarts and gallons.

Super Sound Proofing Flooring!

By popular demand, we are now making our flooring mat available. We’ve combined a tough, wear resistant vinyl surface with a layer of closed cell foam to cushion and isolate noise and vibration. It is designed for floorboards and firewalls in vehicles, including aircraft. Thickness is about 1/4″ and quite lightweight. It comes in 54″ widths by the running foot.

In any event, we’re here to help you with any questions.

Addendum to “Soundproofing the Light Aircraft” For Boats, RVs and Cars

The principles and applications described in the foregoing for aircraft are completely applicable to other vehicles and even homes and offices. Absorption and blocking of noise are the principles of most importance. How this is accomplished is a measure of the effectiveness of the soundproofing job. First, we will discuss some specifics of soundproofing certain kinds of vehicles and the specialties of noise reduction in the business, shop, home or office.

More information is on the website Under “Vehicles”.

Other: Businesses, Shop, Home or Office

Businesses can really benefit by reducing noise pollution. Not only will workers, who spend long hours in the same place every day, but customers (maybe more importantly!) will really appreciate a quieter environment. Generally, annoying noise in these areas is caused by machines or people.

In an office or business, hard reflective surfaces tend to severely accentuate noise. This is one reason why rugs make a room quieter. Here, soundproofing mat can be placed in strips of one or two feet high and run along the top of walls and even attached to ceilings for impressive noise reduction. These sound absorption runners do a very effective job, the more the better!! In noisy areas such as a shop, hanging barriers are made by attaching soundproofing mat to plywood squares (both sides!), and suspending them between the offensive noise producing machine and the receiver of the noise. This works wonders. These barriers may be either permanent or temporary. If temporary, they may be moved out of the way with some sort of wheels, hinge, cable or hook arrangement. Temporary ones on casters are useful or suppressing grinding machines or other loud noises that occur at different places around the shop. (Or, for band practice in the garage!)

Hanging squares are also effective in high noise areas such as machinery rooms, pizza parlors, game rooms, halls, etc. They need not be long or large enough to be very noticeable. Hang them from the ceiling in rows (at least one foot tall), and notice how the quiet develops! We have acoustical foam wedges, pyramids and for max sound control, anechoic wedges in blocks and squares.

Contact us direct for help in other noise control situations, such as architectural acoustics. We provide free consultation!


P.O. Box 985

Vista, CA 92085

Tel: (760) 752-3030

Fax: (760) 752-3040


To The Pilot, Mechanic or Installer!!

Most of the materials mentioned are available

from a variety of sources, your common

hardware store has some of the items. The


is only available from us and:


225 Airport Circle 91720

P.O. Box 4000 91718

Corona, CA. U.S.A.

1-800-824-1930 or (951) 372 9555

As mill distributors of this material,  please order from the above, they stock most sizes.

Questions? Certs? We are happy to offer recommendations, advice, assistance and free samples, or a hard copy of this booklet. Just call or write us.

Logbook FAA Certification letter:+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++


P.O. BOX 985

Vista, CA 92084

(760) 752-3030

September 3, 2005


To Whom it may Concern:

This letter provides information regarding Super Soundproofing™ Material for which we are the mill distributors. This letter is to certify the material has FAA approval.

Our Super Soundproofing™ Material, is a vinyl-nitrile closed cell expanded foam. It has been tested by an FAA approved laboratory that has determined the material, in thicknesses over 1/8th inch meets, or exceeds, the flammability test criteria that is contained in FAR 25.853(b). Results are available on request.

This material, in all thicknesses, meets various portions of U.L. Lab criteria regarding different qualities and parts of D.O.T. “Proposed Guidelines for Flammability and Smoke Emission Specifications.”

In addition, the material meets MIL Spec. MIL-P-15280-H Form S. regardless of its thickness.

I herewith certify the above is true and correct.

General Manager

– – – – – – –

To The Pilot, Mechanic or Installer!!

Most of the soundproofing materials mentioned are also available from

AIRCRAFT SPRUCE & SPECIALTY, 225 Airport Circle, P.O. Box  4000, Corona, CA. 91720 (877) 477 7823 or (951) 372 9555  

Soundproofing Myths You Should Know About!


Save time by avoiding these common soundproofing errors!


The video shows swatches of carpet “soundproofing” the room!”

As a service to those doing their own analysis, noise control planning and sound proofing, we’ve prepared this list of Don’t.  We can’t explore every aspect of doing a good soundproofing job, but avoiding certain materials and processes can save you lots of time and money.  Don’t waste time and money on ineffectiveness.  If you have lots of  time and wish to experiment with different techniques and unknown materials, please do so!  (and let us know how it comes out!).  Many people have made the errors mentioned here and some have been kind enough to pass them on to us for inclusion.  Please feel free to contribute!

Get Help!

If you have anything but a simple problem and the solution isn’t obvious, get help!  No need to figure this out all by yourself, it’s too easy to make expensive mistakes.  There ARE many experts doing work in this field.   Most states require them to be licensed. You can find help in the local yellow pages under “Acoustics” or check with your local building code department or state contractors license board.  For a contractor to work under your direction, locate one using the contractor locater service, such as ““,  listed at the bottom of our pages.  At least read everything on this site and better, get the EPA manual we sell here.Unless you have time and money to waste: DON’T experiment!  We’ll help you- call us!  Or we’ll even call you! (See the sidebar).

Read up on other’s experiences: see the sidebar for the “FORUM”.  Maybe your situation has been dealt with there!

Materials Problems

Some materials to avoid are:

  • common “Eggcrate” cardboard egg holders.You have no idea the number of people who tell us their trials and tribulations to find quantities of it, buy it and install it only to find it does little or no soundproofing! This appears to be because it is frequency “holy”.  That is, it has characteristics where sound at certain frequencies passes freely through it!  Some have told us that some sound transmissions seems to be somewhat enhanced!
  • foam rubber of the common sort, such as that of which rubber mattresses are made.  While this has some possibilities, other disadvantages don’t, (such as it’s durability:),  the cost isn’t all that much different than “made for soundproofing” products when so much more of it is needed to be the equivalent of professional materials. Lastly, and maybe most important is that it will burn like crazy!
  • rubber floor mat. One would think a rubber material would be a good soundproofer and perhaps it is if properly used, but simply laying it on the floor will do little against noise coming in (or going out).  Rubber and Neoprene are in the same class here.
  • old mattresses nailed to the walls.  This technique has it’s followers, but unless butted well together with no spaces, caulked edges, and only if you are willing to put up with the possible odor, mold and moisture they have or can accumulate, not to mention unwanted rodent critter type “guests” that may take up residence – are they a possibility.
  • dark paint? Yes, a lady called to check with us if what she was told was true: that painting her hallway with a dark color would perform a soundproofing job.  She had been assured it would.
  • cellulose- the kind that they “pump” into walls.  Some people make a living doing this- how?  While it’s not useless, it’s not very effective.  When you pay big money to have this done, you would want to see some serious results, not have someone say  “Well, I THINK I can tell some difference!” (Spray-on wet cellulose over opened walls may be a different matter).
  • carpet – Old or New.  Doesn’t make much difference, it will all deteriorate and begin to stink.  The newer will take longer, that’s all.  Same problems as with the Mattress as explained above. Carpet WILL increase the acoustic absorbency of a room, but do little in the way of soundproofing.  (Blocking sound coming through).
  • common fiberglass insulation: makes a great thermal insulator, but not a very good acoustical insulator. (Really!) Contrary to the hyped Lab Reports of the drywall manufacturers!
  • plywood panels/ particle board are not good for soundproofing as wood transfers sound very well.
  • hay bales Yes, these make fine soundproofing units, but are rather temporary, subject to fire, critters and vandalism and obviously for outdoor use. Plastic covering can make them more hygienic.
  • Now, our favorite myth- wires in the ceiling!?   Check this out!

Procedure Problems

Sound control is sometimes not easy to understand.  Some things that make logical, perfectly good sense don’t seem to work well in practice.  Laboratory results don’t always prove out in the field.  Field techniques can’t always be duplicated in the lab.  One area of misunderstanding is  wall space inside a wall.  Dead air space works for you, better than filling it up with something like styrofoam, etc.!  If you do, sometimes packing stuff in can make the sound transfer worse! A larger air space is superior to several smaller ones. This means a wall with 6″ studs creating a 6″ air space is superior to a wall with 4″ studs and a extra layer of drywall with 1″ air spacing on each side.

Don’t blindly accept the experiences of others who have done soundproofing before, there may be newer materials and techniques that cost less and provide more newly available.

There are standard ways of dealing with walls, floors and ceiling, but each case is different.  Because of this, different material combinations are required.  Run your plan by us, we’ll point out if it can be improved.  Use the email link below.

Interior Windows for Soundproofing

Glass or Acrylic Interior Windows for MAXIMUM SOUND CONTROL!

Soundproof windows!

If you need REAL sound reduction, interior secondary soundproof windows may be the solution. An 80% sound reduction and more can be had over the performance of the prime window!

These windows are made to fit inside the frame of your existing window, inside the living area, providing a large airspace between the existing window and the new one. This DEAD AIRSPACE increases noise reduction dramatically. Windows can be made to open or not, be flush or not and you can have a selection of frame, glass, tempered, tinted, etc.

If you can install a shower door, you can install one of these windows. The hardest part is taking fairly close measurements! You won’t find these  inside storm windows at Lowes or Home Depot!  [ BUY ]

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Noise reduction kits by Super Soundproofing Co™.

Noise Reduction Soundproofing Kits using Super Soundproofing™ Materials!

A variety of sound proofing methods and techniques can utilize our materials for noise reduction and abatement.   Make your own sound proofing kit by ordering the materials for it yourself.   Here are some of the most common uses for noise control as related to us by our customers:

Soundproofing a TV in the apartment overhead: Noise reduction eliminates a potential enemy!

The upstairs tenant was totally unaware of the loud annoyance she created for the folks downstairs by the noise of her TV.   The downstairs folks approached her very diplomatically and offered to install under her TV, without cost to her, our “Super Soundproofing™ Floor Mat” .  She agreed and they ordered five running feet of the floor mat material, P.N. 09-42750 (This is the 1/8″ thick “loaded vinyl” with a 1/4″ foam backing) and at the same time, ordered four small vibration pads

They picked up her TV and laid the mat over the rug, (it could have been placed underneath it), placed the isolation pads under the TV and report the sound heard from it  downstairs  was now reduced to a very low,  acceptable level.  The lady upstairs is more friendly now and the downstairs folks  report they’ve turned  a potential enemy into a friend.

Soundproofing a washer, dryer or refrigerator. The above works just as well for these sometimes noisy appliances!  Use a dab of a adhesive to the pad and the foot of the machine to keep ,it from “walking” out.  If you are wishing for some relief from such noise yourself, a pad of our Super Soundproofing™ Mat attached to the back wall, in addition to the barrier mat placed under it as explained regarding the TV above works wonders to reduce noise produced in the room.   Use at least half inch material, PN 09-42725. (one inch is better). Tip: They make “roll-out” casters for the fridge to make handling easier. (More about this noise reduction method!)

Portable panels: If you plan on moving but still want some immediate relief from sound  annoyances, make some portable panels you can take with you. Buy 4’X8′ wall paneling (also called “Panel-board”.  “Homasote” and ordinary “Soundboard” also works well.) from the hardware store and attach Super Soundproofing™ Mat to the backside with contact cement.   Use at least 1″ thick material. (PN 09-42730).  (Well, OK, 1/2″ may work pretty good, too).  Push the panels up into place on your wall using a long finishing nail here and there to hold them in place.  (Tip: seal the edges of your panels with our acoustical caulk for best results).  A noticeable sound level reduction will be made and you can take your panels with you!

You can leave them behind because they are so inexpensive.  (So is a material called “Wonderboard” Also Duroc,  which is made of concrete!).  Caulking around the edges of your panels as mentioned above is essential.  We have a new portable panel easily removed leaving little evidence they were in use. Call!

Window “Plugs”. The most popular method for getting a good nights sleep.  Use 2″ thick Super Soundproofing™ Mat (PN 09-42760) cut to the size of your window (s) and press fit into place. Flexible, yet firm, it will stay in place. More on this.  If the noise is so loud one panel doesn’t do it, use two.  A FM radio tuned to the hiss between stations will help to mask noise while sleeping, too.  (Also a running fan).

Investigate our Interior Windows for where you must have light and soundproofing too! (Or look into using clear vinyl sheeting as listed on our curtains page).

Masking sound.  Some have reported that the electronic devices made by Marpac mask out sound very well.  (You can use a fan in the summer!).

Noise Reduction for Doors!   How to do it!

Fencing Out Noise. Due to many requests, we’ll now give you some info on doing this:  Masonry walls are best.  Important!: Walls need to be at least 8′ high.  Federal noise reduction regulations normally preempt local height ordinances, so you should be able to go higher.  You can make your own noise panels using 4’X8′ sheets of CDX exterior plywood with our absorbent mat sandwiched between and bolted to the fence.  A layer of barrier material like our “Mass Loaded Curtain” material is then stapled over the assembly. These panels are to go on chain-link, wood or masonry fencing and absorb and block loud noise such as produced by machinery, roads and freeways.  They can be used in the backyard for noise reduction as they are designed for outside use.   Caulking seams is essential. Call us for more info.

Soundproofing a car hood: More on this here.

Need a copy of the EPA’s  popular (but out-of-print), book on Soundproofing? “QUIETING: A Practical Guide to Noise Control”?   (Over a hundred 8.5″X11″pages).  Read this and you won’t need a noise control consultant! Get info on sound walls, materials and STC ratings and much more!  Many illustrations.  We provide it for just $15 PP to cover copying costs and postage. Or you can download it now! Amaze everyone with your new-found expertise!  MORE

FOR MUSIC PRACTICE and Soundproofing Musical 


You should give careful thought to the selection of a place to play your music!

Soundproofing should be done as a last resort. It can be expensive and time consuming.

Commercial locations are best because people go home around 5 PM, just when musicians may start to be creative!

If playing locally, try to anticipate conflicts. Neighbors who may complain, either next door or even way down the street may cause you lots of grief. Before you start playing, go and meet whoever could be a problem and make it clear that you have consideration for them. This advice alone can save you lots of soundproofing dollars! Mentioning that you plan to soundproof if it needs it is a real plus. Give them your phone number to call instead of the police. Once they start complaining, real expensive soundproofing effort may not be enough! A little “PR” will go a long way!

No neighbors nearby or at all would be the best solution of all!  Our Band with Music Room Soundproofing

If you can’t take your practice someplace where the sound will not be a problem for someone, try to choose the best place for your practice room where the level of annoyance will be at a minimum. The basement is best, followed by a room (or building) located as far from a potential complainer as possible. Masonry makes the best soundproofing material, especially for low frequencies, like drums. Garages are difficult because of the large door opening. Our portable sound booth could be placed in a garage or even a room. A mobile sound practice studio may fit your needs.

Windows are your enemy because they pass sound so readily. Hollow core doors are also almost transparent to sound. (Any door that’s unsealed will pass sound easily). Don’t think carpet and egg-crate material will help soundproof anything, they’ll just make the music room “dead”, seemingly soundproof.  Sometimes, adequate sound reduction can be had with a “Double-Drywall” technique where a layer of drywall is applied over the existing wall, (and/or ceiling) with visco-elastic coating,  suspended on resilient metal channels  or sound clips with a layer of thin acoustical absorbent mat in between.  This provides more mass, vibration isolation and absorbency with one technique.

In many cases, the best solution to a very high volume of noise is a “Room-within-a-room” with the inner walls a foot or so from the existing walls. Covering the walls with acoustical mat will certainly help, but it’s hard to predict to what degree. Perhaps a floating drummers pad or even a full floating floor or room will help.  This means some knowledge of sound control and carpentry is needed to do some non-structural construction. Careful attention to certain details (not mentioned on the site), could mean the difference between success and failure of your sound reduction project!  (You’ll get these vital details when you become our customer!)

A typical practice room would have sound barrier material applied to the old walls before building a false wall and ceiling out from that wall a foot or two. The airspace between must be sealed off with caulk and be a complete compartment of itself. (Each wall, ceiling and floor). Another layer of barrier, resilient channel and a layer of  “Homasote” or “Green Glue” and drywall would complete the walls and ceiling.

For a door, use an exterior door, or better, two doors opening opposite ways. More on doors.

Specifics about these methods and materials, including illustrations and detailed instructions on construction can be had from our Internet web pages. Our soundproof booth may be of interest. We have panels that can be simply hung on the existing walls, too.

Expert Village
Jul. 31, 2006. 11:03 PM EST
In this instructional video, you will learn about the best kinds of microphones to use when assembling your own recording studio.
Expert Village
Jul. 31, 2006. 11:03 PM EST
Learn about microphones for a professional recording studio in this how-to video clip on professional recording equipment.
Expert Village
Jul. 31, 2006. 11:03 PM EST
Learn the function of the preamplifier, or preamp, in a professional recording studio in this how-to video clip on professional recording equipment.
Expert Village
Jul. 31, 2006. 11:03 PM EST
Learn what types of recording studio software are available in this how-to video clip on professional recording equipment.
Expert Village
Jul. 31, 2006. 11:03 PM EST
Learn how to soundproof a professional recording studio in this how-to video clip on professional recording equipment.

Mold and how to avoid it

Do Soundproofing While Preventing Mold!


Newspapers and television programs are increasingly reporting on mold problems with newer homes and schools.

In one such instance, the Ballard family of Texas had their home demolished in April of this year due to mold infestation that could not be removed. Their son suffered permanently scarred asthmatic lungs, while the father lost his memory and his job. The mold got so bad they needed hepa filters to enter the house.

Erin Brockovich and her family are also battling mold related illnesses, like respiratory ailments and chronic headaches, to name a few. Tests on the home revealed serious construction flaws and high levels of several molds. Blood test results indicated a severe reaction to two of the molds that showed up in the home. For more information, visit (search Ortiz) under the “Landmark Toxic Mold Legislation Draws Support From Local and National Advocates” article.

There are specific environmental conditions required for mold to propagate. A specific temperature range and source of food are the basic factors that must be in place, but the most important element is the presence of moisture.


Moisture can be present within building walls, ceilings, attics, and crawlspaces via:

  1. gravity
  2. capillary action
  3. air leakage
  4. diffusion

In order to minimize the potential for mold growth, a building envelope system has to meet all of the following criteria:

  • The building envelope must prevent water from penetrating. Therefore, the structure must be properly sealed and contain an effective drainage plane / rain screen.
  • The building envelope must control air leakage. Uncontrolled air leakage leads to condensation and mold growth within the building envelope. A sealed building is more of a soundproof building.
  • The components of the building should resist moisture and once wet should then have the potential to dry quickly (they should be hydrophobic). As supported by test results from leading building product laboratories, Super Soundproofing Absorbent Mat does not wick or absorb water. Moisture cannot pass through SSP mat and once dry, the product returns to its full performance value without deterioration.
  • All sound control components should be able to be installed with relative ease and should not be installation-dependent for their ultimate performance. Good results can be had by the average DIY’er or handyman.

The key to winning the war against mold is to take pre-emptive measures for the future health of your family. It’s not the materials so much as the infiltration of moisture. For more information on how to evaluate your home for susceptibility to mold infestation, check with a mold control expert.

Certain types of air purifiers are effective against established mold.

Soundproofing Resources Page, Super Soundproofing Co,

Super Soundproofing LINKS to other Resources.

Here’s a list of links and resources of interest for those of you with noise control and soundproofing issues, not in any order of importance.  This is by no means all the links on this subject on our site, but just the ones we’ve taken the time to catalog and place here for your convenience. The most recent are listed at the top.

See Soundproofing videos at the new SuperSoundproofingTube video site! Get some fame!  Upload your soundproofing, remodel videos!

The right stuff to put in your floor for airborne sound and impact noise!>[GO]

We have now combined all our books and info about soundproofing on our Books page.  Go here for a quick look-see of the material we recommend.  Some are hardcopies, some can be downloaded instantly and some are FREE!

A couple of the most popular books located there is on sound control for buildings:  Building Sound Control Try it!  Another important book is Noise Control Manual For Residential Buildings Both of these books are highly recommended as far more comprehensive than our EPA reprint.

We constantly get questions about where to get someone to do an acoustical evaluation or install material.  Check with your State building contractors license board.  Mostly, people doing this type of thing need to be licensed by the state they are in.  But, if you are willing to educate them and don’t want to do-it-yourself, almost any handyman can do the Don't Dispair!soundproofing type of insulation installation, not-with-standing many states requirements for licensing.  Some of the Builders, Internet usegroups such as and other Do-It-Yourself forums are invaluable sources of information!    To see a cost estimate of the work, check in with get-A-Quote! One of the most asked questions is answered here! How to hire a contractor. Or How To Select Soundproofing Suppliers!

We have a list of contractors in many areas, check for one near your location by calling us.

Discussion community for home remodeling, renovation and repair. Also general discussion on topics such as insurance, buying/selling and more.

Located in the UK? Here’s a site with similar products to ours, but you’ll still need our “Books”!   (and the sample kit may allow you to match up with something similar, obtainable locally!).

Another interesting link for those who want Music Rooms or you have a need to quiet your  piano?   This other site shows how to quiet the keys!

Home repair and upgrading: Best site we’ve seen so far is Jim Evans effort.  Check out the  “Computer and Office Desks” Page – the have additional resources for home improvement, too.  

We get lots of requests for info about noise-canceling, or Active Noise Reduction.  (ANR)  In Desert Storm, the enemy were astounded and dismayed when they couldn’t hear the American tanks drive right up into their camps!  That’s a link to a site on that subject.

Some of our customers have had good results by “Masking” annoying, intolerable noise with white noise generators made by MARPAC or SCAMPMASK.  Hard to see that adding more noise will relieve the noise, but to see if this will work for you, use a FM receiver tuned to between stations to see if this will tend to mask your noise source. A running fan will sometimes work, too.  A better inexpensive solution is headsets/earplugs: (Earmuffs).

Sound, noise,  legal problems?  Need help?  Try the NO-NONSENSE national clearinghouse to reduce noise pollution; They have impressive resources! Another site of interest is: The noise enforcement and code compliance experts, offering a full range of noise-related services. A link to a reading of annoyance and comparative zoning regulations is at BKL Consultants Ltd.

Our own FAQ page covers info gleaned from the old forums on the old (months ago) web site.  The other archived forums can be accessed from the Navigation sidebar. This is still very good info, just like our own current Forum.

For wet blow-in insulation, though it’s been found that it doesn’t have much sound insulation qualities, check the Nu-wool company for a dealer near you.  Don’t bother with common loose cellulose filling, it has even less  in acoustical properties!  (About the same as fiberglass insulation!) Another possibility is “Icynene”.  (They say it has “Noise reduction” but don’t say how much).  Cotton batting does!

Looking for HARD DATA about soundproofing measurements and comparisons of ratings?  Well, we don’t go into it much here on this site because it’s all relative and lab figures can be very misleading!  Materials behave differently depending on their care in installation and the surroundings. Annoyance levels are subjective and so is the materials to control them!  But if you need a noise control primer and want to look at some graphs and charts, here’s the site!

Churches usually have limited budgets, so the sound control in them may be badly handled.  Here’s some links to those specializing in this:

Church Myth: Wires for soundproofing!?

The Church Sound Discussion Group part of The Church Sound Network. Listing of appropriate books on sound systems.

Our own sound control Solutions to everyday noisy sound-proofing problems.


Products List

Church Soundproofing

More Myths – CHURCH Soundproofing: Wires in Ceiling?

Here’s an interesting exchange retrieved from the USEgroup: alt.sci.physics.acoustics (A rather snobbish UK group). wrote:

> My church has built a new parish hall that has a vaulted ceiling (a v-shape,

> just like the roof, open, with the trusses visible) and no carpet. The room

> is fairly large. Sounds echo, vibrate, and bounce all over the place. It is

> difficult to hear someone sitting near you because of the problems.

> I have heard that stretching a wire length wise across the ceiling may have

> sound absorption characteristics which would improve the noise in the room. Is

> this correct and how do you set it up? Any other suggestions?

> Thank you for any input.

> Chip


It is a commonly held superstition that wires of random length strung in a church ceiling will reduce reverberation. The overly reverberant condition that you report will be cured only by adding sound absorptive material. An acoustical

consultant can advise you on which absorbers to use, how many to use, and where to place them for maximum effectiveness.

Having briefly answered the question, I report to fellow acousticians that this superstition is evidently much older than I supposed!

If I correctly understood what Leo Beranek said at the San Diego meeting in December ’97, this superstition goes back at least as far as Roman times! Dr. David Lubman


BJ’s Note: It worked because all the people coming to church to observe caused a greater absorption of sound in the church from the great number of bodies of the church goers…. Cushions on hard pews may work almost as well, too.

Back to MYTHS

Acoustical Soundproofing Curtains, Drapes, Clear sheeting and Strip Doors

Buy Now

Soundproofing Acoustical Curtains, Drapes and Strip Doors

Super Soundproofing™ specializes in providing out-of-the-box and creative solutions to solve your acoustical issues. We have with us a rich product portfolio exclusively designed for reducing excessive noise in industrial, commercial, domestic and institutional areas. Our acoustical soundproofing solutions are not only cost-effective but they also offer the desired results when in use at any facility.

Know About the Most Effective and Inexpensive Acoustical Soundproofing Solutions from Super Soundproofing™

We have been successfully serving the huge demands of customers from various sectors by delivering Acoustical Curtains, Drapes and Strip Doors. These products from Super Soundproofing™ protect people from rising noise pollution created by gymnasiums, arenas, community leagues, office spaces, recreation venues, schools, and several other facilities.

Soundproofing Acoustical Curtains/Draperies – In order to achieve effective soundproofing, your room or facility must be at least 40% of its total area covered with absorbent material to reduce annoying reverberation. Our custom made, ingeniously tested and field proven sound blocking curtains/draperies block outside noise and light. Acoustical curtains/draperies are highly useful for adding absorbency to a room that has many reflective surfaces. Moreover, they are the quick, effective and cheap way to improve room acoustics as well as to block sound from coming through walls, doorways, windows, patio doors, etc. They are largely purchased for hanging on thin walls, such as mobile homes. Super Soundproofing™ acoustical soundproofing solutions such as curtains/draperies are highly effective for rooms of:

  • Residential
  • Commercial
  • Lofts
  • Condos
  • Classrooms
  • Auditoriums
  • Meeting/Conference rooms
  • Churches
  • Retail spaces
  • Office spaces
  • Home theaters
  • Vocal booths
  • Dance studios
  • Home recording studios
  • Hotel& Motel Rooms
  • Medical offices
  • Hospitals
  • Counseling offices

Use double-sided tape to seal curtain edges to wall for improved results! Also to seal center overlap of two curtains where they join together. Use it left, right and center to seal vertical edges of curtains thus reducing sound migration around and through the curtain joints at the walls and center overlap. Magnetic tape can also be cut into strips and used for this purpose.

Make sure that the curtains/draperies are not stretched tight and completely extended flat to the wall. For achieving the best soundproofing effect, acoustical curtains/draperies can be doubled up to be used in areas where maximum sound penetrates. You can hang the first layer on regular curtain rods, and then the second layer on extended rods. These kinds of installation create airspace between the first layer and the second. Call us to know more. Acoustical Soundproofing Curtains



Prefabricated, ready to install Vinyl Strip Doors have excellent optical clarity, permitting good visibility through doorways. Useful for thermal, dust control and noise reduction.



Mass Loaded Vinyl have lead-free barium metal powder or silicon in vinyl for added weight and sound control!

Mass Loaded Curtains (Black/Gray, can’t see through) are available in 4′ wide sheet – These are used to achieve noise reduction by placing over windows and doors.

Lbs P.S.F Thickness Width S.T.C Part No Per Foot
1 .107 48″ 26 099107 $7.55

These are also used to increase noise reduction by placing over windows and doors.

NoteMake sure to use double-sided tape to seal curtain edges to wall for improved results. Also, remember to seal the center overlap of two curtains where they join together. A complete sealing of vertical edges of curtains helps reduce sound migration around and through the curtain joints. A magnetic tape can also be cut into strips and used for this purpose.

See-Thru Vinyl Curtain (Clear) – Works great for car wash facilities! Select the most appropriate see-thru curtains from the below chart.

Lbs P.S.F Thickness Width S.T.C Part No Per Foot
.5 .080 48″ 20 099080 $15.05
.7 .120 48″ 23 099120 $23.15
1.0 .160 48″ 26 099160 $30.65

Measure your doorway or window and order the most appropriate curtain size. For instance, if your doorway is 8′ 2″ high, you would need to order 8′ 6”feet of material. Material can be grommeted or mounted using some sandwich boards to hold it at the top. The board is then mounted over the doorway using screws, nails or chain. Walk-through panels can easily be made with vertical length-way slits. Use mass loaded vinyl on walls as a backing for the noise control curtains to increase their acoustic qualities.

Walk-Through Vinyl Strip Doors – Super Soundproofing™ possess a rich inventory of vinyl strip doors to fit all types of doors, no matter the size, style and location. Prefabricated and ready-to-install vinyl strip doors come with excellent optical clarity, which permits good visibility through doorways. Preferably designed for achieving thermal, dust control and noise reduction, our category of strip doors are available in a wide variety of thicknesses and widths. Specifications of vinyl strip doors available to achieve substantial noise reduction at Super Soundproofing™ include:

Lbs P.S.F Thickness Width S.T.C Part No Per Foot
.1 .107 48″ 26 099107 $7.55
.5 .080 48″ 20 099080 $15.05
.7 .120 48″ 23 099120 $23.15
1.0 .160 48″ 26 099160 $30.65

Call us to know more.

Measure your doorway and window and then make a most appropriate selection from the above list. Using the perfect size vinyl strip doors is imperative to achieve maximum sound proofing as expected. Mass Loaded Vinyl Opaque

Select Mass Loaded Vinyl Opaque or Clear Vinyl material (or both!) from chart. 8″ X .080- $ 2.50 Ft  12″ X .120 – $4 Ft

Measure your doorway or window and order to the closest foot in length. For instance, if your doorway was 8′ 2″ high, you would need to order 9′ feet of material. Material can be grommeted (Get the tool at the hardware store!) or mount with some “sandwich” boards holding it at the top. The board is then mounted over the doorway using screws, nails or chain. (Or use the mounting kits shown).

Cut vinyl to length with snips or sharp knife. Allow to brush against the floor for maximum sound reduction. Walk-through panels can easily be made from the 4′ wide sheet with vertical length-way slits. Or order precut strip material from us. Double-up or hang on both sides of the opening for maximum effectiveness.

Our See-Thru Vinyl curtains Meet California Fire Marshall Registration No F-561 Use the mass loaded vinyl (MLV) on walls as a backing for the noise control curtains above to increase effective sound blocking. As effective as lead sheeting!Buy Now Soundproofing Acoustical Drapes

“Clamp Type” Door mounting kits for Strip or Sheet

The bottom edges of the holding bar are rounded to reduce wear on your strips as they swing.

6′ Wide Kit……………………….$125.95

8′ Wide Kit………………………$149.95




Intelligent Acoustical Soundproofing Solutions Unrivalled by None in the Market CEILING MOUNT



The same strip mounts as a wall or ceiling  mount.
strip mounts




Ceiling Mount Wall Mount

We pride ourselves in our capability to provide the customers with inventive acoustical solutions they ask for. Since we possess a rich inventory of a wide array of soundproofing solutions, we never say no to any of the requirements raised by the customers. We continuously upgrade our inventory with intelligent solutions to meet the frequently changing needs and expectations of customers.

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What’s your most important soundproofing question you’d like to ask us? (Use this form to get a very, very quick reply 24X7!) If you leave your number, we'll even call you! Get an even quicker answer: Call us toll free! 888-942-7723 8-5 Pacific time.

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Our soundproofing solutions have helped thousands of our clients! They can work for you, too!

floors and ceilings Our walk-in soundproofing store is located at 455 EAST CARMEL ST, SAN MARCOS, CA. 92078 -- Open 8-5 Weekdays. Saturdays 'till Noon! Location Map & Street View. Nearby Airports: San Diego, Palomar (Carlsbad), (Coaster, too!) Oceanside, Fallbrook, Temecula (Rancho California: French Valley). Call for pickup! (888) 942-7723 Se Hable Espanol!