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Archive for the ‘How To Do It’ Category

STC Value of Acoustical Caulk

“Backer Square” is cheaper and less labor-intensive than multiple thicknesses of acoustical caulk for filling large gaps.

MORE ABOUT SOUNDPROOFING DOORS – About Door Sweep Soundproofing

Buy Now

How to soundproof your door with a simple acoustical soundproofing  door sweep.        (Click Here for Printer Version!)

This is All About Controlling Sound and Reducing Noise coming through Doors.

We sell hundreds of these door bottom gap sealers to hotels, motels, bed and breakfasts and apartment buildings  for cheap door soundproofing – take a tip from them!

After dealing with the exterior sound coming thru  windows,  sound control efforts in a room should focus on the door: a typical interior  hollow core door will pass sound quite readily.  (An STC of much less than 20- this means conversation can easily be heard thru it).

The door should entirely be replaced with a solid, exterior door, the thickest you can find.  “MDF” (Medium Density Fiberboard) doors are cheap and have good sound blocking qualities and available from Builders Supply like Home Depot.

Get a door without the recessed decorative panels- they reduce the thickness of the door.  If it’s important to have them,  buy some that you can attach onto the door.  Make sure the door is well fitted to the frame, no gaps or crevices for sound to migrate through. If there are  gaps, use our closed cell PVC tape,  (not from the hardware store).

The door should be sealed off as if it was 40 degrees below zero on one side.  If it has a gap over 1/4″ at the bottom, use our door sweep seal, (a metal strip with a rubber flap) mounted to it, available from us.  (As shown here).  Set it to just brush the floor.     If your door is a standard 36″ wide, you can get it and a roll of sealing tape for $36 Free Shipping!

Door Sweep Soundproofing

A seal is essential to properly soundproof a door. Our soundproofing seal is a rubber loop, carefully cut to your door width size, modified by us with sealed ends for added performance in creating a dead air space within the loop. We’ll cut this to an exact fit for  your door if you’ll give us the measurement of the width of the door.

You will also receive the screws to mount it to your door.  Depending on if it’s metal, you’ll need to drill pilot holes, if wood you won’t.  Usually, only a screwdriver and a few minutes is needed to install this very much needed attachment to block sound from coming from underneath your door.

Some notes about our “Soundproof Door Sweep”: (The part that should seal the door bottom against sound and that fits on the edge of the bottom of the door). Since our doorsweep only seals up to a 3/4′ gap, a transom seal should be used from the hardware store that fits on the floor across the bottom of the doorway.  Use this kind if you have a huge gap. Try to get one with a rubber flap. (Mechanical ones are expensive and will eventually fail).

Note, the illustration above would tend to make some believe the seal fits somewhat under the bottom of the door- not so- it just hangs down and does not slide under the door!

Door Extender Strip


Remember- it won’t close the bottom door gap over 3/4″,   if more, use  the above mentioned threshold to take up some of the gap or build down the bottom of the door with a wood strip.


Sometimes it may take both!


This wood strip was mounted with glue and screws using drilled pilot holes to avoid splitting the wood.  It was then painted to match the door finish. The doorsweep may also be painted.


The seal should lightly brush the floor, but a 1/4″ gap is acceptable when you are done.


Your new door may still need sound insulation. Use 1/8″ MLV with 1/4″ closed  cell   foam,   bonded to it or 1/4″ MLV.. Then cover with “Super Soundproofing acoustical mat”.    Usually 1″ thick will suffice. Cut it a bit oversize to cover the seam of the door at the  frame to help seal it.  You can use the mat with the adhesive backing but you may not be able to remove it later.

A typical door 3′ X 8′ is 36 sq. ft. so 8′ of the 4′  wide MLV will cover it. 9′ of the 4’X1″ foam will be needed. If there’s a lot of sound still coming through, consider hanging a “Mass Loaded Curtain” (barrier) or a acoustical curtain over the door and frame.

Door Frame

Soundproofing Doors

You could use gaskets that are ordinary thermal sealing gasketing foam strips from the hardware store, but far better results can be had if you use our “Super Soundproofing 1/8” Thick Self-Adhesive Tape” , because it is a closed cell material, will seal better and is much more durable. It is a gray tape in widths of 1/4″, 3/8″ & 1/2″ for door sealing.  Apply strips on top of each other to build up and close wide gaps.

Think you can’t replace the door with your door, Landlord problem? You can always put his door aside and rehang it when you leave. Better, create an “Airlock door system” by leaving his door in place and adding another door to the frame, opening the opposite way. (Solid core, of course!)

TIP: Remove the molding from around (use care to not split it!), the door and check the gap between the frame of the door and the rough framing.  Usually you’ll find there is nothing there!  Many times this empty space of the door frame has no insulation at all,  just covered by two pieces of wood molding. Pack the area with our Super Soundproofing Mat (you can order just a few feet, we have no minimums), or use our caulk, and cover the gap with our lead tape, then replace the molding. This tip applies to windows too! (Do not use expandable foam as for thermal insulation. It will be worse than the airgap, establishing a soundpath).

Sliding doors have little or no acoustical qualities at all and are best replaced with one that has, or if not possible, covered with a hanging sound barrier such as curtains, etc. If it’s a glass patio door, you could cover part of it with soundproofing mat and make a holding panel with mat attached to it to cover the door that moves when it’s shut.

Another option is to add another patio door with a new frame. This double door will block a lot of sound by trapping air between the door panels. Commercially available soundproofing sliding glass doors can be had here.  But you can do-it-yourself!

French double doors need a “T” strip and special techniques to reduce sound transfer.  Best to call us to discuss.

Open doorways? Curtains hung across open doorframes usually don’t perform well acoustically, but do some sound blocking if they are heavy and fitted well to the frame. If made of clear plastic and cut into strips for egress, the strips need to be overlapped about 50%. When using clear plastic, use the heaviest you can, we have it in up to .160 thicknesses. Acoustical curtains perform about the same. If possible, consider hanging curtains on BOTH sides of the doorway for greatly improved sound reduction. This is because the dead air trapped there works for you. Such curtain installations should touch the floor. Use double-sided tape to attach the curtains to the wall at the edges to help seal the curtain.

Garage doors are another problem, especially bad if they are segmented doors. (Panels that are hinged). Such doors may prove difficult to deal with because of the gaps created by the hinging. However, our “Super Soundproofing Mat” glued to the inside may flex enough to work O.K. Use as thick of material as you can. It will also help to use a barrier like “Super Soundproofing Flooring” (MLV) to cover the entire door area including the walls to outside. (More on this on the web page about soundproofing a garage).

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Super SoundProofing™ WebSite What’s NEW!



  • See Soundproofing videos at the new SuperSoundproofingTube video site! Get some fame! Upload your soundproofing remodel videos!
  • Green Glue comes to the Super Soundproofing Co™! We were the First!
  • Now available from us: Natural Cotton Fibers for sound control within walls and ceilings. A simple sound insulator with both thermal and soundproofing qualities!,
  • A really economical Sound Control Booth you can make yourself!
  • We’ve added info on the “Poor Man’s Sound Isolation Window” to the site. Here’s a way to get some reasonable sound control through your window without spending a fortune!
  • A new kind of Furring Track!  Yes, Truly new way of adding many STC points to your wall.  See our Insul-Trax kit.
  • A material to place under hardwood floors and tile to reduce impact noise! Now in stock! Call and ask about our “Super-Sound-Seal”.  Also a new way for gym floors to reduce impact noise.      760 752 3030
  • We’ve added a new kind of “Sound Clip” replacing the old expensive kinds. See “Your Options” and comparisons!
  • We now have “Hangers” for your speaker cabinets! Float them from the ceiling on a chain to perfectly isolate them from the walls and floor!
  • New! A brand new product! “Double-sided Foam” We apply our adhesive to both sides of our closed cell 1/8″ PVC foam, then cover it with protective film. The first peel off backing is pulled from the foam and it’s then easy to stick it to walls, ceiling, etc. The other backing is then removed so you can paste on more thicker foam, MLV, wallboard, ceiling tiles, even wallpaper! Use it to sandwich together two panels of drywall! (Sheetrock). Use this anywhere liquid gluing is unsatisfactory because of difficult access, the odor, mess, etc. Use it for blocking sound. Quickly dampen sound vibrations on joists inside ceilings and on studs. Available in 2′ and 4.5′ (Yes, that’s feet!) widths in 50′ and 100′ rolls. (Inquire!)
  • Tips for builders.
  • We’ve  a scanning service , to scan our site for hacker vulnerability. They scan every day to be sure your private info is not at risk while surfing our site..
  • Just Added! Closed cell padding tape for studding, joists, etc. This 1/8″ closed cell foam tape is self adhesive and applies easily. Use it to increase sound attenuation in walls, floors, ceilings by padding ceiling, wall and floor panels. Use it on resilient channel and furring track! Stops floor squeaks! The simplest, cheapest soundproofing technique available. Even if you don’t do anything else, this will increase sound loss as much as 10 db or more right in the speech range.
  • We now have a good, economical Spray Adhesive. for attaching foam to walls, ceiling, etc. One coat allows removal. two coats makes it permanent.
  • Added: Cotton Batting:  Thermal Insulation with great acoustical properties.
  • Acoustical “Lead” is getting harder to get. We still have it in tape and sheet!
  • Major price increases in the mass loaded vinyl and lead sheeting (Hit the “Prices” bar at the left) But thanks to our customers loyalty and due to re-negotiation of our contracts, we’ve become a high volume supplier of these materials and are holding the line for you!
  • Used acoustical curtains are in stock but we are getting very low. Get yours now before we run out!
  • We  link with Granahan, a real good consultant and contractor for San Diego / Southern California. Want to see a soundproofing job? See his installation pix. We have a list of other contractors of some in other areas, check for one in your area by calling us.
  • Resilient Sound Isolation Sound Clip! Doubles the sound resistance of a typical wall. These little rubber and metal fixtures are easy to use and are twice as effective as just metal strips (resilient channel). Screws to the stud with 2 fasteners!
  • Adding noise to reduce noise? Masking sound. Some have reported that the electronic devices made by Marpacmask out sound very well. (So do fans, water fountains and fish tanks).
  • Sound-proofing Doors! How to do it! For real!
  • Our message center: (The Forum– left sidebar) Very popular! Ask your questions of the experts and let everyone have at ’em! Or search the database for answers.
  • A portable sound control room has been added to our list of products. Available now!.
  • A acoustical foam sample kit of materials is now available. $10 gets you one sound control kit and a coupon good for $10 off your next order! And you can now download the EPA sound control book in Adobe format,  still preserving the illustrations.
  • Due to popular demand, we now have available VINYL SEE-THRU/WALK-THRU Doorway kits. This vinyl material is also useful for windows!
  • We’ve added Complete Products shopping cart so you can see at a glance everything we have to offer. If you don’t see it, ask! We probably have it but haven’t revealed it to our copycat competitors yet.
  • We’ve added information on INTERIOR WINDOWS to the site! Yes, now you can reduce sound coming through your existing window by up to 80% over your present window installation with or without any modification to it or the frame.  “Snap-ins” are now available from a us, or do-it -yourself!
  • Now a new page dedicated to actual sound proofing SOLUTIONS to specific noise problems.
  • You need a copy of the EPA’s out-of-print book on Sound proofing. “Quieting in the Home”. (Over a hundred pages). Read this and you won’t need a consultant!  More info about this book and others, too! You can download it too!
  • Check out the new “Sitemap” and take a walking tour of our soundproofed house! Musician? Some new features , the newest is about thoroughly sound proofing a garage!
  • If you like what we’re doing, please help us stay in business by buying sound proofing materials from us. Imitators selling inferior materials are really cutting into our business. Their unhappy customers then call us for help! Check them out first with the Better Business Bureau! There may be a reason they are not a member and don’t take credit cards! We won’t just tell you what you want to hear just to make a sale, but they will!     How to Select a Soundproofing Supplier!
  • We’re been a real company since 1988, not a “Dot-Com”. We manufacture and stock all of these materials and know how to use them. We’re not a “drop shipper” like many of our competitors working out of their garage, bedroom, etc.. We quote prices right on this web site and you can order and get delivery right now! (Most items shipped same day!)

Soundproofing Materials for Soundproofing a house

Soundproofing a house, different areas of your home require different treatments to attenuate noise. Some noise is annoying when it comes in, such as through the windows or attic.  Other noise may be annoying to others both inside and out of the home. (Playing musical instruments, neighbors, street noise, etc).  For these   reasons, differing noise control treatments of the house are needed, using a variety of sound control materials and special acoustical construction techniques.  While it is far better to make the investment in soundproofing (architectural acoustical noise control), when the home is being built, rather than doing a soundproofing retrofit, it’s not impossible, just a bit more difficult.

  • Noise control through Doors

The investment in soundproofing should be considered in the long term, over the period of years where continuous relief from noise will pay off in less stress and in getting a good nights sleep.  The costs of acoustical investment and upgrade made in this situation can be fully amortized and  thus means only  a few dollars a year. These initial costs can usually be fully recouped when the house is eventually sold and will make it much easier to sell!

The long term enjoyment of quiet may be more difficult to measure.

Get more important information here!



Soundproofing and noise control in the office


Your office should be a place where you can work and conduct your business in peace and quiet without noise transfer in or out!  Your ability to accomplish needed tasks can be severely compromised by the distraction of annoying noise.

Such disturbing, distracting, annoying outside noise is generally caused by neighborhood noise and traffic, usually coming through the windows and/or through the doors or walls.

Sometime office noise can come from within, from others in the house/building, or inside the office when people are talking and on the phones.

Sound control can take several forms, depending on the source of the annoyance.  The solutions are usually fairly easy to accomplish once the  noise sources are found and prioritized.

Privacy in the office should start with the door: a typical interior style hollow core door will pass sound quite readily.  It’s best not to bother to soundproof such a door by applying soundproofing material to it as you will not be very successful.  It should be replaced with a solid, exterior door  the thickest you can find. Try to find “MDF” doors.  (Medium Density Fiberboard).    Make sure it’s well fitted to the frame, no gaps or crevices for sound to migrate through. It should be sealed as if it was 40 degrees below zero on one side.  If it has a gap at the bottom, use a transom seal, (a metal strip with a rubber flap mounted to it).  The new door may need insulation anyway.  Use “Super Soundproofing acoustical mat”.  Usually 1″ thick will suffice.  Cut it oversize to cover the seam of the door at the frame to help seal it.  If there’s a lot of sound still coming through, consider hanging a “Mass Loaded Curtain” (barrier) over the door and frame. How to fit a door for best soundproofing.

If you can’t replace the door, (Landlord problem? Listen, you can always keep his door someplace and rehang it when you leave),  better, you can add another door to the existing frame, opening the opposite way.  (Solid core, of course!)

Next, windows seem to be almost transparent to sound.  Sound control sound barrier solutions come with options.  Replacement of the window with a double, triple or more paned glass unit may be the answer. (50 to 90% sound reduction).  If you decide to leave in the existing window, you may be able to add an interior window to the inside frame.  (50 to 90% noise control reduction). If you must keep your window and don’t want the expense of the foregoing and if you must have light, a clear plastic may reduce the noise level adequately, so if need be,  cover the window inside and out, (both sides). (20-50%)  If light isn’t important, plugging the window with our soundproofing mat may be the answer. Other window noise reduction alternatives:  Shutters.  Window barriers.  And fences, (Another subject!)

Noise within the office:  Many think cubicles give a measure of privacy.  Not so.  They give an illusion of privacy.  They generally are not high enough nor thick enough to prevent conversation from being overheard.  Naturally, when an animated, loud conversation is going on, it can disturb the others in the office.  Office walls have the same problems as they can pass sound more easily than many think.  If there are “dropped” suspended ceilings, check to make sure at the least the walls go all the way up above and do not end at the ceiling. Such ceilings have virtually no sound reduction capability at all and those short walls make it worse.

If there are no partitions and it’s a common area room, noise can build up, causing people to raise their voices thus compounding the problem.  This can be reduced by adding absorbent mat to the wall corners/ceiling joints thereby reducing sound reflection by absorption.  Pyramids or Wedges are some types of open cell foams in common use and are available in decorator colors.

Individuals might consider using headsets to allow concentration on their work in the office.

Simply adding mass loaded barrier (MLV) to the walls will help reduce sound transfer drastically.  It can be covered with wall paneling for esthetics.

Generally, sound masking does not work well unless the sound being masked is very low.  (Adding noise helps?).

Privacy can be very  important, both for those in the office and those outside.

Another resource about soundproofing a office.

Natural Cotton Fiber Batting

Natural Cotton Fiber insulation is the newest in sound control!

Not Fiberglas- No Itch

Get the best in both sound control and insulation! And GREEN, too!

NEW: R-30 material in the new bags! SAVE! We are the only stocking dealer in the San Diego North County area for these materials! Don’t deal with “Drop Shippers” who can cause you long delays and gouge you on shipping fees!

Natural Cotton Fiber insulation is the successful combination of 25 years of insulation experience and a revolutionary patented manufacturing process that has created a new, superior and safe product.

This easy to install Natural Cotton Fiber is made from high quality natural fibers. These fibers contain inherent qualities that provide for extremely effective sound absorption and maximum thermal performance. It DOES NOT ITCH and is very easy to handle and work with.

Easy to install Cotton FiberIt contains no chemical irritants and requires no warning labels compared to other traditional products. There are no VOC concerns when using Natural Cotton Fiber, as it is safe for you and the environment.

It is also a Class-A Building Product and meets the highest ASTM testing standards for fire and smoke ratings, fungi resistance and corrosiveness.

It contains 85% post-industrial recycled natural fibers making it an ideal choice for anyone looking to use a high quality sustainable building material.

By installing our Natural Cotton Fiber, you are making both your building and the environment a safer place to live, work, and enjoy. “A “Green” building material”! We can also supply the special cutting tool and sharpener for high production installation jobs.


Safe Rooms Explained

Safe Rooms- the modern bomb shelter!

Forget about duct tape and plastic wrap  for your safe room!

What is a safe room?

A safe room is one which the goal is to rid the air of any biological contaminants such as mold, cat allergens and pollen, viruses, bacteria, noise pollution and other types of environmental pollution like biological gases from a terrorist attack. A safe room can be any room in the house which is toxin free.Such a room can also be modified so as to provide radiation protection from nuclear attack, depending on the distance from ground zero.

Who needs a safe room?

Most people most of the time can tolerate some toxicity; the time to provide protection is when…

People have weak immune systems such as the young, elderly or sick.  And/or allergies that don’t respond well to drugs.

The level of toxic pollution for any reason (such as an attack), could reach such a level as to be considered dangerous to the population at large.

Info regarding a nuclear attack: Data indicates that if the blast of such an attack is survived, the radiation drops to a low level in the first 2 hours, then to a very low (almost negligible) value in the next 2 days

Building a safe room:

For soundproofing the walls and ceilings, see “Party” Walls

To build a safe room, one must bring enough uncontaminated fresh air into that room so that people will have plenty of oxygen. The answer lies in positively pressurizing a room. In order to provide occupants with a completely toxin free room, a constant flow of air needs to be drawn into the room from the outside or adjacent room through extremely high grade Hepa and/or carbon filters, so only pure air enters the room. Using the inflow duct kit for these air purifiers, bring the fresh air in safely from the outside through a duct fitted into a window or wall. When new air enters in from the outside, it filter out large particulates, then a surplus of air fills the room to capacity thereby excess air is forced  out of the room through a one-way outlet duct, because the room must be airtight.  In addition, a air purifier that destroys virus’ and bacteria (such as the  Eco-Quest), is used in the room as a secondary unit and that will continue to function should the first fail.  (Portable battery operated units are available for this purpose, too).

A standalone air conditioner might be considered, where the ionizing air purifier would be built into the ducting.

The radiation barrier is provided by lining the walls, ceiling and if needed, the floor with lead sheeting.  This is easily accomplished by using adhesive to cement the sheeting the walls or to additional drywall sheets which are then applied to the walls, ceiling, etc.  Lead tape is added to finish the sealing job.  The more lead, the better the protection.  The government protects our leaders with several inches!  We ordinary citizens usually cannot afford the kind of  protection the government provides our politicians.

Call us for more info on this. 888-942-7723 8-5 Pacific time

See these links as a resource for your own Safe Room.

Sound proofing, Sound Control Solutions by Complaint


Here we present acoustical information gleaned from the EPA’s book, Quieting: A Practical Guide to Noise Control”. ($9.50 PP) More info on this book.

We have slightly updated the noise control solutions to reflect more current thinking and to point to more modern sound proofing materials than were available then when the book was first printed.

We’ve added even more information taken from actual case histories found in Noise Control FAQ’s and our sound proofing discussion group (The “FORUM”)  situations as well.

Complaint Probable Causes Remedies
A. “This room is noisy” Noisy appliances, ventilation system Reduce noise output of source: install vibration mounts; isolate source in sound insulating enclosure. Ventilation noise: reduce blower speed; install acoustic lining and flexible connectors in ducts.
Room is excessively reverberant; if the sound of a person’s handclap persists longer than a second, the room requires acoustic treatment. Install sound absorbing materials, e.g., carpets and pads, drapery, upholstered furniture, acoustical wall padding, ceiling. Total surface area of absorbent material should be at least one-fourth of total room surface area.
Outdoor noise intrusion Install window “plugs”. Install gaskets around existing windows and doors; install storm windows and doors, replace hollow core or paneled entrance doors with solid core doors.
B. “It is difficult to concentrate” If conversation at an ordinary distance of 3-5 ft (1-1.5 m) is difficult, the ambient noise level is too high [greater than 70 dB(A)]. Excessive noise may be due to causes described above. If the remedies outlined above do not alleviate the sound control problem, install barriers and/or a prefabricated, sound-insulated booth or field office enclosure.
C. “It’s stuffy and oppressive in here” If there is adequate ventilation, the room may be acoustically “dead.” There is too much absorption, i.e., excessive drapery, rugs and pads and upholstered furniture. Remove at least 50% of all sound absorbent material such as drapery, thick carpet and padding; or replace existing furnishings with lighter-weight material. Large glass framed pictures may prove effective.
D. “You can hear voices, but they are unintelligible” The sound transmission through a partition or ductwork, and ventilation noise in the mid-frequency range. Caulk or seal all visible cracks at ceiling and floor edges of party wall. Remove cover plates of all electrical outlets in party walls to check for back-to-back installation; in such cases pack cavities with foam mat or jute fiber wadding and seal with a resilient caulk. If additional sound attenuation is required, acoustical modification of the party wall may be necessary (see text).
E. “I hear whistling noise” High-pitched sound usually is generated by ventilators and grilles; worn or defective washers, and valve seals in plumbing, heating and refrigerant systems. High-velocity gas flow through furnace burner jets or nozzles causes similar noises. Set dampers at most quiet setting; place ear at grille, if noise is louder, remove grille. If noise vanishes with grille removed, reduce blower speed or install new grille with larger and more streamlined openings and deflectors. Reduce pressure in plumbing system and isolate pipes and valves from supporting wall and floor structures with resilient sleeves or collars. Replace worn or defective faucet washers or valve seals. Wrap pipes.
F. “I hear my neighbor’s TV and stereo”. Acoustically-weak partition wall due to inadequate construction, noise leakage through cracks at floor and ceiling edges or through back-to-back electrical outlets. Neighbor’s TV set may be too close to party wall. Use same methods as in D above. Suggest that neighbor place resilient pads under and blocking mat behind his TV and stereo sets and relocate them away from the party wall.
G. “Footstep noises from the apartment above annoy me”. Rigid, light-frame construction of floor assembly, solid concrete floor slab covered with tile; lack of carpeting and padding. Suggest that carpet and padding be installed on the floor above. If additional footstep isolation is desired, test both ceiling and the walls in your room with a stethoscope to determine which is radiating most noise. If noise radiation from ceiling is greater, install a gypsum board ceiling mounted on resilient hangers, place foam mat blanket in void between ceilings. In some cases, wall paneling w/foam backing mounted on resilient furring members may be required in addition.


Soundproofing Windows with a “Plug”.

Soundproofing Windows with a “Plug”

Windows are the most common sources of allowing noise into (or out of), a room. Glass panes and wood window frames seem to be almost invisible to sound. An alternative to replacing the window with double pane glass, (a noise reduction of about 20%) or vinyl frames, (noise reduction of about 30-50%), is to make a removable “plug” to block the sound coming through the window. While this will also block light, it won’t matter if the window is a bedroom and the noise is keeping you from sleeping. If light is wanted for day use, make the plug removable. It can then be taken out to allow light to enter the room. Here’s how:

Measure your window frame to see how much depth there is to the sill. This will determine the thickness of the material you can use. The mat is cut from rolls that are 4′ wide and is sold by the running (linear), foot and different thicknesses. So if your window was 4’X4″, you’d need 4 running (Lineal) feet of it. If you window is an odd size, like 4’X4’5″, order to the next largest half foot size: 4’X4’6″

Usually, one thickness of 2″ “Super Soundproofing Mat” will work best, windowplug_small

depending on the measurement you made of the depth.  The mat is relatively stiff, but windows over about 4’X4′ may need a “backing board”. This is simply some lightweight wood or fiber board to attach the mat to. Use contact cement or get the foam with “Sticky Backing” (PSA). Cut a few holes in the back for your fingers to fit while handling the plug or use cabinet handles.

The plug should fit the window opening very tightly without cracks which will permit sound to leak around it. It probably won’t matter which way it is inserted, but if you place the soundproofing side out and the carrier board side in, you could add more soundproofing (MLV) to the room side, if needed. In fact, you can use MLV as the carrier board, which will make the plug a lot more effect, but heavier.  If do use it, make sure it’s cut an inch or two oversize to help block the sound that may come through the edges of the plug and the window frame.

Make sure your window panes and frame are well sealed, no air gaps!

To make the plug easy to handle, if you intend to remove it, attach some cabinet handles to it so you can easily grip it. It will be lightweight enough for a woman to handle if you use thin boards or plywood and the window frame isn’t very large. An added bonus of such a soundproofing plug is the thermal insulation property of the window goes way up, keeping you warmer in winter and cooler in summer! A 1″ layer of our Super Sound Proofing Mat” is about R-5.5 so it wouldn’t take too many layers to equal a very high “R” number. (The R number refers to the heat insulation quality of a material).

If the window is exposed to full sunlight all day, it may be prudent to help limit heat buildup between the glass and the soundproofing mat by first lining the window and mat with aluminum foil as a reflector or tinting the window glass.  The mat can withstand temperatures of over 200*F so don’t worry about it, but what you leave in the airspace  might suffer- (plants, shades, blinds, etc)!  You can get an idea of the heat buildup in the airspace by sliding a oven meat thermometer thru the mat and into the airspace.  While not totally accurate, it will give you an idea of the temp of the heated air in the space.

If large amounts of sound are being passed by a window, either way, (playing the drums?), more drastic measures may be needed. This could entail lining your plug with a MLV both sides to give it more mass.  If a plug as described accomplishes the purpose, it may make sense to leave it in place rather than to make it removable.  In that case it can be sealed by caulking it around the edges, which will help the soundproofing sealing job.  This works well for doors, too.

We have the mat in 1 1/2″ and 2″ thicknesses, which are firm enough to push into place in the smaller window frames without a backing board. A few “T” pins will hold the mat in place, if needed. If you intend to leave it in place, caulk around the edges.

You might also consider a shutter window Shutters SSPCO

or storm window for the outside of the window if it’s practical.  Many times this works quite well.

Alternatives/additions to this is a “Interior Window“, (we now can supply magnetic edging and “L” channel so you can make your own), one that fits over your existing frame and window or “Acoustical Curtains” either vinyl or fabric to hang over the window opening. Remember, optimally, a dead air spacing between glass is needed for a real meaningful reduction of sound in a framed window.

Check with us if you want us to make your window plug or door cover for you.

Sound Control in Walls

Sound Control Walls: Construction Options

Making the Right Choice for soundproofing walls, floors and ceilings

For residential sound control, there are more than a half-dozen ways to increase the noise reduction of interior walls.

  • Acoustical Caulking
  • Sound Control Insulation
  • Double Layers of Drywall
  • Resilient Channels- Soundclips, etc
  • Staggered Stud Construction
  • Double Wall Construction
  • Soundboard, Wonderboard, etc.

Sound control is most efficient when two or more methods are used together. There are many possible combinations of these six techniques. How does one choose which to use?

The table below lists typical STC values for a variety of construction types. It also shows the improvement in noise reduction provided by the different sound control options for soundproofing walls, floors and ceilings, using as a baseline the most basic wall construction of studs and drywall with no caulking. Notice that a wall with an STC value of 50 ( studs, drywall, resilient channels, sound control insulation ) provides four times more sound reduction than the basic wall with an STC value of 30.

Type of Construction STC Value Improvement
Studs/ Drywall/ No Caulking 30 (MAX) 1 (baseline)
All remaining Types include Caulking
Studs- Drywall 35 1.42
Studs- Double Drywall One Side 37 1.63
Studs- Drywall-Sound Control Insulation 39 1.87
Studs- Double Drywall One Side – SC Insulation 41 2.15
Studs- Drywall- Resilient Channels 42 2.3
Studs- Double Drywall One Side -Resilient Channels 45 2.84
Studs- Drywall- Resilient Channels -SC Insulation 50 4.0
Staggered Studs- Drywall- SC Insulation 51 4.3
Studs-Double Drywall 1side-Res Channel-SC Insul. 52 4.6
Staggered Studs-Double Drywall 1Side-SC Insul. 53 4.94
Double Wall- Double Sound Control Insulation 59 7.46

Remember that STC values are based on the number of decibels of transmitted sound reduced by the wall. Just as a 50 dB sound is four times louder than a 30 dB sound, a 50 STC wall is four times quieter than a 30 STC wall.

Using the values shown in this table and factoring in costs and construction time, three sound control combinations stand out as the most logical choices for soundproofing walls, floors and ceilings:
1) Studs, drywall, caulking, sound control insulation;
2) Studs, drywall, caulking, resilient channels or SoundClips, sound control insulation; and
3) Staggered studs, drywall, caulking, sound control insulation.

soundproofing walls This resilient channel is shown in it’s proper position with the large flange up and with sound absorbing tape applied to the facing.





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