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Archive for the ‘How To Do It’ Category

Noise Vibration Pads for machines

Super Soundproofing™ Anti-Vibration Isolation Pads

Reduce impact sound levels with vibration padsTwo types of sound are usually caused by machinery: Airborne sound and Vibration sound.

Soundproofing by vibration isolation:

Used for commercial sound and vibration isolation of machinery.

Some of our pads are high quality elastomeric ribbed neoprene, specially compounded to resist aging, compression set, water and oil. They are constructed with alternate rib heights, cross-ribbed, with a cork center for additional sound isolation. Durometer of these pads is 60 on the “A” scale. (The best).

Maximum loading capacity of each cork center pad: 50 pounds per square inch. Pads may be stacked for increased isolation and capacity. ( A 2″ pad will support 200 lbs).

Pick the size pad for the bearing weight, not the size of the footing! 3″ pads are best for 2X4 sills for wall studding, etc. Put under the studs or space about 2-3 feet apart under the sill depending on wall load. Use the 2″ X 3/8″ pads neoprene without cork as support for your drywall panels edge. Cork center Pads are all approx. 7/8″ thick.

Use rubber furniture cups to keep vibrating, walking, active machinery (like washing machines), on them. Sometimes some construction adhesive, like “Liquid Nails” or “GOOP” is helpful. Need softer pads? See first item below.

SPECIAL: Not available anywhere else:

2″ Soft Pads: $.99 Ea. A soft pad using a combination of foam and MLV. for delicate machinery like turntables, printers, etc. Use for sewing machines, too. (Use 2 stacked for each bearing support for heavy machines).

Pads in stock:2″ X 3/8″ thick ribbed neoprene pads: $1.00 Ea. w/o cork center.

18″ Sq. Pads $32.50 Ea. Ribbed Neoprene (W/O cork).
2″ wide by 18″ long strips: $18.00 (All prices are plus shipping!)
2″ Pads: $1.50 Ea. Cork center
3″ Pads: $3.00 Ea. Cork center
4″ Pads $6.00 Ea Cork center
6″ Pads $9.00 Ea Cork center
12″ Pads $18.00 Ea Cork center
18″ Sq. Pads $38.50 Ea. Cork Center
2″ wide by 18″ long strips: $18.00 (All prices are plus shipping!)

Ribbed Neoprene with Cork CentersIf your exercise machine is very noisy, creating airborne sound like a Fitdesk, or the floor doesn’t have much sound reduction, use a MLV sound barrier: “Floormat” (use the 4’6″ width with foam backing-long enough to go past the ends of your machine a foot or two!). This may be needed in addition to vibration pads.

Large machines such as the new Fitdesk or fluid trainers like Kurt Kinetic may need a floating floor made from panels like these:   23 1/4 x 23 1/4 Floating Floor System           


Anti Vibration Motor Pump

Anti-vibration motor/pump mount.  Taped.

Vibration PadsUse these small “Dimple Pads” pads under each corner for a Treadmill or other exercise machine       Soundproofing anti vibration pads Great for washers/dryers too! (Not for top loaders!)

Set of 4 pads……………………….$19.95

You can cut pads to make different sizes or to double them up for heavier machines. These pads are to be rotated/repositioned to account for wear over time.

Don’t forget the sound isolation tape– it does a good job of padding DWFC, sheetrock wall paneling from studs and sub-floor panels from joists! It can also be used effectively as vibration damping tape for many other purposes.

Other:  Speaker Hangers.

For more anti-vibration solutions, see also the page on soundproofing appliances!

Super Soundproofing™ Hoodliner

buy now
Super Soundproofing™ “HOOD LINER” is Great!

Car CuteawayBy popular demand, we make it easily available and with vast improvements.

WHY? The biggest problem with a car or truck noise reduction is that sound is coming right up through the hood- then through the windshield. (Because glass is almost transparent to sound!) Car engine noise mixed with road noise blows right through into the passenger compartment. Auto generated sound is mostly low frequency, the hardest sound to block or absorb.

WHAT IT IS: A closed cell expanded vinyl-nitrile foam in the form of a mat, one side smooth for applying an adhesive. You can use a spray-on or contact cement. (Or our “Peel-N-Stick”)  Very durable. Effective to over 225 F.  Won’t burn either.

PURPOSE: Used as a hood liner- sound barrier/absorber for soundproofing the car engine compartments of cars and trucks, it is also useful for boats, (won’t absorb moisture) and RV’s in their generator compartments.

INSTALLATION: For auto/truck car engine hoods, remove the hood, (mark your bolt mountings) remove/discard all the old insulation. Use the thickest mat possible. (2″)  Plan to trim it to clear obstructions when the hood closes. Place hood on a worktable with the underside up. Clean the metal thoroughly and carefully cut your mat to fit, then apply the adhesive to both material and hood. Apply and press down well. If mechanical fasteners were used on the original material, reuse them if possible. It won’t hurt to use some sheet metal screws, large area washers or upholstery snaps to help retain the mat over time. Trimming can be done with an electric “Turkey Carving” knife or sharp razor knife. Trim to fit around the air cleaner, etc. Can be used on engine side of the firewall too.

Cut mat into panels and cement into the car body.

SIZE:  Standard mat is 1″ thick. It comes as a 48″ X 48″ panel and is shipped by post or UPS in a roll. Or you can buy lengths cut from roll material.

This kind of mat is also useful for reducing “rumble”  transmitted from the trunk to the passenger compartment.

You can use any thickness of “Super Soundproofing™ Mat” and stick it together with contact cement if the above thickness is not right for your project.

Vibration damping pads work by changing the ringing frequency (deadening) of the metal panels to which they are attached.

Professional car restorers use Soundproofing Liquid for application on metal surfaces such as trunk areas where reverberation is a problem in high end sound installations! 2-3 gallons will provide several buildup coats to the entire floor area of a vehicle, greatly reducing road noise!

Get the free booklet: “How to Soundproof Light Aircraft“! Info applicable to boats and cars, too.

SHOWN:  Car engine hood removed from Dodge Caravan with factory “crap mat” removed and cleaned for installation of  “Super Soundproofing™” 2″ thick closed cell vinyl nitrile mat.

This kind of mat is also useful for reducing “rumble”
Transmitted from the trunk to the passenger compartment.


Second method- (Takes more time and material, but esthetically worth it).

This requires four layers of ¼”:

The first one covering only the  8 small triangles of the hood,

The second one on top of the first one covering the 4 big triangles,

The third layer on top of the previous two layers covering the right half and left half of the hood,

The last one covering everything and it is the only one you can see in the picture.

hood liner

Best to lay out and cut the last  layer (one piece) that covers the entire inside of the hood first, then use the remaining material to cut the small pieces as shown.

Don’t buy the material that has  PSA,  (Pressure Sensitive Adhesive), use 3-M High Temp contact cement instead.   The material that was used in the above project was 12 Lineal feet long (4′ wide).


You can call us if you need help! 1- 760-752-3030 9-5 Pacific time 5 days. Or use the box below!



Basements have been found to be havens and useful spaces for added living.  Here we’ll explore the issues in converting this relatively useless space to important use.  This is not only about soundproofing, which is important for reducing fun annoyance, (rec room, home theater) in adjacent areas, but for privacy, above and below, especially if the space is to be used for everyday living by family or rented out.  We don’t get into the details of sound proofing these specific items.  There are other pages here giving full detailed noise control info.  Just click on the links.

Scope of soundproofing work.

  • Essential areas at issue:






  • Heating- Air conditioning


Aircon (Heat pump)

  • Ducting
  • Electrical – Plumbing

Floor:  Little needs to be done to the floor if a standard concrete slab is involved, except consideration given to the cold and damp that may come from it.

Ceiling:  Usually the ceiling in a basement is bare rafters and if left that way, substantial sound will transmit through it in both ways, up and down.  A ceiling must be in place to have any kind of soundproofing.  Not a drop ceiling, with is virtually worthless for sound control.  What kind of ceiling depends on the noise transfer that is anticipated. If it’s just airborne sounds like people talking, above and below, a simple soundproof ceiling made of of 5/8” “Fire code” Drywall may suffice, with sound isolation tape on the bottom of the joists, depending on what the floor topping is above.

If its carpet and pad, it’s far better than tile/ wood or laminate flooring, as these hard surfaces make the floor above almost invisible to sound waves.  Even so, a layer of sound barrier material called MLV (Mass Loaded Vinyl) is recommended in case your floor ceiling doesn’t have much sound blocking capability.

In the event it’s people walking, sound transmitted is down below, (Impact sounds), the vibrational sound, much like electricity, must have its path blocked.  This can be done with “Sound Clips” a rubber grommet device

SSPCO sound clip

that attaches to the bottom of floor joists and mounts metal rails for the new drywall ceiling.  Resilient channel, a 1970’s system, it not used anymore except by unknowledgeable contractors.  But if you must use it, it’s here.

Walls:  The walls will not be much of a soundproofing problem if the basement is deep enough where the walls are buried outside.  Finish of the walls can be easily done by imitation wood paneling, etc.

If, like many basements, the outside ground level does not completely cover the wall, leaving space for basement windows, the soundproofing issue will be the sound coming in or going out the windows and perhaps the wall now left, which may not have much sound blocking ability. In that case a double layer of drywall and a layer of MLV should suffice unless there is a loud source of sound nearby.   If so, add a layer of “Green Glue” to the sound proofing equation.

Windows: Unless light is needed, it’s may be simpler to wall them off to prevent sound in or out.  If light is needed a secondary window can be simply added over the window opening as shown here. 

Doors:  Many basements have at least one doorway, maybe more for ingress/egress. It’s best to put in doors, not only for sound control but for privacy.  Use the thickest MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard) doors for this as MDF has superior sound blocking and are cheaper than wood or steel faced doors anyway. For what we know about soundproofing doors, go here: Details.

Medium Density Fiberboard

Heating- Air conditioning: Usually there’s this appliance in the basement feeding heat and/or cool air throughout the house with ducting.  This unit must be walled off into it’s own room with a door to keep it quiet enough to live with and the ducting feeding to the rooms above in the spaces in the ceiling must be walled off. If they are square metal or round flex plastic ducts, use foam mat first then box them in with drywall.  This is to prevent sounds from the rest of the house from coming in (down) and sounds from the basement from going up to the upstairs room vents.

If you are planning to use a window or through the wall aircon, be aware they are internally open to the outside and will pass sound easily.  If you must use one, consider placing it where a noise source is not nearby.

Electrical – Plumbing:  Some want to make accessibility panels in their ceiling to have “access in case of an emergency”.  Best advice is to avoid this idea as it will not be needed in an emergency.  The leak, etc will be quickly evident and you’ll be accessing it through the damaged ceiling.  Just make sure the wiring and plumbing is in good condition before closing up the ceiling.

A provision for lighting must be made and the rule is to not cut holes in your noise control ceiling to accommodate it.  “Can” lights are out as well as recessed fluorescents.  A better choice is indirect lighting or low profile tube fluorescents. If you must use Can lights, etc, forget about the soundproofing as there won’t be any.

You can use ceiling fans as long as they are mounted to the bottom of the joists and not the ceiling.  Caulk the through the ceiling holes for them with acoustical caulk.

If there are any noise control issues with the plumbing, (water gurgling, toilet flushing), now would be time to cover the offending piping with pipe insulation to quiet them down.  If you do your laundry here, put a protective drain pan under the washer to prevent major damage to your living space if it overflows (Same with the water heater).  If possible drain the pan to a floor drain.

How to do it all?  Best way is to be your own contractor, as most contractors don’t know much about it anyway.  We have a list of some who do, inquire. You can hire “Can do” kind of guys or handymen or you and your friends can do it.  The key is to not make the mistakes of the unknowledgeable.  That’s where we come in, to answer your questions and advise.  See also: (How to select).

If you are planning use this space for music practice see here for additional soundproofing info.

You can take a tour of a basement soundproofing project here.

Questions?  Use the box below for a rapid reply!  Talk to us about your project.


10 Questions to ask before the purchase!  (For apartments, substitute “apartments” for “Condos”)!

Many people who were living in single family homes are surprised and shocked to discover they now share a wall with their  noisy condo neighbor. Of course when the purchase is complete and one moves in, it’s far too late to do anything about it except to bite the bullet and live with it or investigate what options are available to mitigate the noise after the fact.

We here at the Super Soundproofing Company™ have helped many of these hapless buyers and can help you too, maybe by preventing obvious mistakes before the purchase and even after..

If you’re one of the few buyers studying up on the purchase of a condo, join the ranks of the fortunate that are armed with knowing the questions to ask before the purchase. You’d need to talk with the Seller and/or the Condo Association/Property Manager.

1)  What kind of soundproofing was installed when the unit was constructed and when? (This will tell you the codes in effect at the  time, and if any).

2)  How effective is it? What STC and or IIC are maintained? (STC is airborne sound, people talking) (IIC is impact noise, people  walking)

3)  What can you tell me about my neighbors to be, left, right, above and below? (You’d want to know if they play the piano, etc).

4)  How many noise complaints have you had? (If they don’t answer correctly, you may have a legal Cause of Action later, if needed).

5)  Ever received attorney letters about the noise? (See #4 above).

6)  What was the prevailing Noise Level Code this condo was built to, and when?

7)  Are there any tenants with state supported rent? (Sometimes the parties never stop!)

8)  Can I bring my sleeping bag and spend a night and day there? (This doesn’t always work as it has happened the seller gave a paid vacation to noisy neighbors to go away so the condo could be sold!)

9)  Whats the policy for installing wood floors, etc?

10)  Ask “Anything I should know before I buy”?

You’d need to know the kinds of soundproofing employed while the building was under construction in the case of

A)  Concrete walls, floors or

Soundproofing Insulation

B)  Double framed walls with sound proofing insulation.

The level of sound control of the condo would have been established at the time of construction, so it’s important to know what it is. That level will determine if it’s sufficient or not for your living enjoyment. If not, you’d be faced with expensive retrofit of sound panels or even have to demo out walls and ceiling to do a major remodel.

A quick determination for the sound levels in the condo can be done by using your ears as a tuning meter. The human ear is quite sensitive to not only the direction of the incoming sound, but also the level.

For instance, listening carefully at the wall, (a few inches away), then the window will give a relative reading of the traffic noise entering the room. Your cell phone playing music will allow you to get a reading of the sound transfer through a common wall. Many times these walls are all constructed the same in a condo building; it may very well be they will be the same for adjoining rooms of the next door neighbor. So, if you hear noise well through your walls, so will you hear it well through his walls, too. (And he’ll here you too!)

Even if you find there was “Soundproofing” in place from the time of construction it may have been insufficient considering the aging of the building and the inevitable traffic noise increase of the neighborhood in general.

Wall, floor, ceiling and window soundproofing is not cheap, though some ill-informed may refer to outmoded techniques from the 1970’s.such as extra layers of drywall, cork, fiberglass batting, etc. as sufficient. Modern day costs to accomplish proper soundproofing may well run into the thousands and misguided efforts to save money may lead to unacceptable results.

How to:

* Walls:  Using a layer of MLV (Mass Loaded Vinyl) under another layer of Gypsum board will double the sound blocking of an existing wall.

* Floors:  As above, Using a layer of MLV (Mass Loaded Vinyl) under carpet and “Rebond” carpet pad will double the reduction of airborne sound. Using MLV with closed cell foam bonded to it will reduce both airborne sound (STC) and impact sound (IIC). This works well for laminate floors too.

* Ceilings:  If the floor above is not accessible, then the option is to demo out the ceiling and use “Sound Clips” to float a new ceiling of Gypsum board on “Hat” channel.

* Windows:  They are the most likely to be the cause of outside noise entering the condo. A window “plug” is easiest to use to block  incoming noise but will block light until removed. A “Secondary” window provides the same sound blocking as well as light and is easily removed for cleaning, air, etc..

Of course such costs vary drastically from state to state, city to city, but should be figured into the costs associated with buying a condo needing soundproofing.

Here are some approximate materials costs:

* Walls/ Floors: Basic MLV is about $1.50 per sq ft, the composite MLV and foam about $3.60 per sq ft. Other products may be needed.

* Ceilings: Sound Clip run about $5.40 each and you’ll need one for every sq ft of area. “Hat” channel runs $4 for each 5’ length. Plus locally obtained drywall.

* Windows: The 2” foam plug costs $8 per sq ft and the locally obtained clear plastic sheet for the Secondary window about the same plus the magnetic tape and angle for mounting is $3.50 per lineal foot (measured around the perimeter of the window frame).

See the shopping cart  For more detailed costs.

Many times such deficient housing is purchased by savvy investors who can get a good deal because of these sound control issues and then remedy them for a nice profit. But it takes careful consideration and a knowledgeable buyer to avoid getting burned.

Take a walking tour of soundproofing an apartment.



                             Thank you for your valuable time !!!


We Appreciate Your Interest in our product/services with Super Soundproofing Co. We will get back you as soon as possible.

if you have any question/comment regarding our site and services then feel free to contact us at (888) 942-7723  or Email us at



                                                              First Online Soundproofing Resource



                                                               Meanwhile you can reach us at 



Things you may need:

  1. Vibration pads
  2. Noise barrier (MLV)
  3. Soundboard – (from the hardwood store)
  4. Soundproofing Mat

Things you need to know:

There are several types of air conditioners, each presents different problems regarding quieting, but generally most have some things in common.

1) Older units are more noisy than newer units, mostly because they are near the end of their lives, while newer units are likely inherently quieter.

2) Compressors make more noise than fans and when near worn out can be very difficult to quiet down. Replacement is the only option.

3) Fan blades can make a lot of noise if coated with dirt through long use and can become imbalanced, causing bearings to go bad, adding to noise. Cleaning them can not only reduce sound, but add years to their lives.

4) Sometimes it’s cheaper to replace a whole unit (even if it’s not yours!) than it is to try to remodel against the noise.

Window Units:

These are difficult to quiet and many times it’s not the noise of the unit that’s the problem, it’s the noise that comes in when it’s OFF, because the air flows right through it from outside in and so does the sound of traffic, etc.

If you removed the front vent panel and filter, you can see outside! Therefore, sound has an unimpeded path into the room. Such a condition can be helped by a shield fitted to the outside of the unit, thereby making the airflow and the sound take a right angle path into the air intake of the aircon. Lining the shield with sound absorbing closed cell foam will really help reduce sound coming in. Your local sheet metal shop can make one for you if you give them the dimensions of the unit it to which it is to be fitted.

Pad mounted (Outside) Units:

These types move a lot of air and are usually pretty noisy, even when new. They tend to be large, because they cool (and sometimes heat) large areas. Because the sounds from them are loud and varied, (A combination of compressor and integral fan noise, as well as vibration), trying to soundproof them directly with material on them is usually fruitless and some sort of barrier/fence must be set up.

If it is a roof mounted assembly, make sure there are adequate vibration pads under it to help reduce vibration transmitted into the roof. A noise barrier made of MLV can help reduce noise created and going down through the roof. If mounted on a concrete pad there will not be this kind of problem.

Determine direction of the soundpath that is causing the problem and plan a fence barrier between it and the target of the sound. (A bedroom window, for instance). Build a fence (no gaps in the slats!), at least 8′ high and 6′ wide that goes all the way to the ground as close to the unit as practical and line it with sound absorbent closed cell foam. 1″ thick is a good choice. If the soundpath is angling upwards, add a overhang to your fence to help block the path. If there is more than one soundpath, a fence in the shape of a “V” or even 3 sided like a “U” may be necessary. In some cases a boxed in area may be needed, complete with a roof to contain the sound. Access doors and ventilation will have to be planned for this type of solution. Some hints on how to baffle a noise source is here.

Attic Fans and Air Conditioners:

Some times it’s necessary to “Hang” these units from vibration mounts rather than set them on pads to reduce vibration to an acceptable level. When belts are used to drive the fans, problems can arise due to wear and aging of the assemblies and bearing blocks. Units that are comparatively quiet can become very annoying over time as loose parts begin to sound off. Usually it’s necessary to add sound barrier and vibration absorbing mat around the installation to reduce sound transfer into the structure of the building. This is best done at initial installation rather than later when it will be much more difficult.

Ducts/ducting and air vents.

Ducting needs to be covered with closed cell sound absorbing foam (not open cell foam), for sound and thermal insulation. Metal ducting needs to be physically isolated from the fan shroud or aircon unit with a flexible coupling. Otherwise is will re-radiate sound vibration along it’s length. Fiberglass or flexible ducting usually won’t have this problem, but will lose thermally if not insulated.

Liquid soundproofing can be painted/sprayed on or in the metal ducting for even more sound vibration reduction.

Vents are a problem if the design causes an air noise. To see if this is a problem, temporarily remove one to see if the sound level drops appreciably.

Watch for vents to rooms that have a single common feed up through the wall- (or down through the floor to the ceiling below), if you can peer though the vent into the other side, it means sounds in one room will transfer to the other room.

If you are buying an AirCon, don’t just take the sound ratings the dealer may give for quietness- find out where the different brands/models are installed and go check them out- you will definitely be glad you did!



Super Soundproofing Privacy Statement by the Super Soundproofing Co™.

Super Soundproofing™’s Privacy Notice

Effective 07/03/2012
Privacy Notice Contents:

Your privacy is important to us. To better protect your privacy we provide this notice explaining our online information practices and the choices you can make about the way your information is collected and used. To make this notice easy to find, we make it available not only on our homepage, but most every page and at every point where personally identifiable information may be requested.

The Information We Collect:

This notice applies to all information collected or submitted on the Super Soundproofing Co™. website. On some pages, you can order products, make requests, and register to receive materials. Some types of personal information collected at these pages are:

Email address
Phone number
Credit/Debit Card Information

On some pages, you can submit information about other people. For example, if you order a gift online and want it sent directly to the recipient, you will need to submit the recipient’s address. In this circumstance, the types of personal information collected are:

Phone Number

The Way We Use Information:

We use the information you provide about yourself when placing an order only to complete that order. We do not share this information with outside parties except to the extent necessary to complete that order.

We use the information you provide about someone else when placing an order only to ship the product and to confirm delivery. We do not share this information with outside parties except to the extent necessary to complete that order.

We offer gift-cards by which you can personalize a product you order for another person. Information you provide to us to create a gift-card is only used for that purpose, and it is only disclosed to the person receiving the gift.

We use return email addresses to answer the email we receive. Such addresses are not used for any other purpose and are not shared with outside parties.

We use non-identifying and aggregate information to better design our website and to share with advertisers. For example, we may tell an advertiser that X number of individuals visited a certain area on our website, or that Y number of men and Z number of women filled out our registration form, but we would not disclose anything that could be used to identify those individuals.

Finally, we would never use or share the personally identifiable information provided to us online in ways unrelated to the ones described above without also providing you an opportunity to opt-out or otherwise prohibit such unrelated uses.

Our Commitment To Data Security

To prevent unauthorized access, maintain data accuracy and ensure the correct use of information, we have put in place appropriate physical, electronic, and managerial procedures to safeguard and secure the information we collect online and to protect against hackers.  We do not keep credit cards numbers- they are destroyed at the time of use.

Our Commitment To Children’s Privacy:

Protecting the privacy of the very young is especially important. For that reason, we never collect or maintain information at our website from those we actually know are under 13  and no part of our website is structured to attract anyone under 13.

How You Can Access Or Correct Your Information

You can access all your personally identifiable information that we collect online and maintain at our credit card processors website.  We use this procedure to better safeguard your information.

You can correct factual errors in your personally identifiable information by sending us a request that credibly shows error.

To protect your privacy and security, we will also take reasonable steps to verify your identity before granting access or making corrections.

How To Contact Us

Should you have other questions or concerns about these privacy policies, please call us at 760-752-3030 9-5 Pacific time or send us an email. Or visit us!

BBB Privacy Tips!

GREEN GLUE for sound reduction and noise control.


Our green glue vs that other runny thin stuff!  (Better called “Green Glop!”.)

While it’s not a soundproofing paint, it’s even better!  (Yes, we Do have a soundproofing paint)!

Big 29 OZ tubes of Green glue make it easy to use

We were the first Western Region distributors for GREEN GLUE! We stock massive quantities of it and sell it in odd lots (Tubes) so you don’t have to buy more than you need!

For existing walls, just apply Green Glue to some new sheets of drywall and stick it up on the wall, fasten in a few places, tape off and paint or wallpaper! For bare studding or ceiling joists, for double drywalling, use MLV.  Apply padding tape to the studs before hanging the sheets for even more enhanced sound control! Easy to use, for small jobs it comes in caulk-type 29 oz. tubes or in buckets for large jobs.  A case of 12 covers about 190 Sq. Ft.  (A wall 24′ long and 8′ high).  Dollar for dollar delivered, the best value in soundproofing products!

Priced too low to show here!  Call for best price.


The Ultimate in a Sound deadening paint

Buy Now

The Ultimate in a Sound Damping Coating!Almost like a soundproofing sound deadening paint!  (See the Video!)

Use this acoustic treatment to block and dampen sound!

Super Soundproofing Co™, (San Marcos, Ca.) master distributors, is introducing Noxudol 3101, a patented water-based soundproofing sound insulation and deadening compound. Along with being water-based, it absorbs noise and vibration, is sprayable, nontoxic, dries hard. It works really well for damping resonance in aluminum, steel, fiberglass and poly-glass. It is nonabrasive, anti-corrosive, protects against condensation and is ideal for automotive, industrial and railway applications.  Plus – the flame-retardant properties are awesome!

While not a sound proofing paint, it’s pretty close!  (It’s thicker, but can be sprayed). For sound barrier, use MLV.

Sound deadening with Noxudol 3101Reference object – Djupviks ShipyardBefore: Usually, they glued 1,5 mm aluminium plate with 1 mm glue on the inside of the hull. This required 1 working hour per sqm. All the aluminium plates had to be cut to the exactly right size. The weight per sqm was 5 kg.Today: All vertical places, which need sound damping, included the frame ribs, are treated with Noxudol 3101. Up to 5 kg/sqm can be applied without exceeding the cost for the material of the old system. However, Noxudol 3100€™s unique sound damping properties and the possibility to treat 100 % of all vertical surfaces and frame ribs, reduce the requirement of material to about 2 kg/sqm (about 3 litre/sqm wet material). They apply up to 3 kg/sqm on surfaces where extra sound damping is required.

– Less working hour to sound damping one sqm. Up to 80% reduction.
– Reduced material cost.
– Less weight. Up to 50% reduction.
– Environmentally harmless product.
– Contains no solvent or other dangerous materials.
– Better sound damping results.

– Lloyd Certificate of Fire Approval
– Bureau Veritas Certificate of Type Approval
– Smoke generation 3101 ISO 5659-2 (1994)
– Spread of flame 3101 IMO Resolution A.653(16)
– Noxudol 3101 F1 Class
– Noxudol 3101 M1 Class
– DIN 54837 Adtranz Nox 3100
– Burning rate 3100 Volvo STD 5031,1
Notes on application:  To obtain proper results of sound deadening, the material needs to be built up on the surface it is applied to, with a number of coats, drying somewhat between coats, (It dries quickly),  increasing the thickness to 3/16th to 1/4″.  It can be sprayed with our special sound control spraygun!Not available in spray cans.It will dry hard and firm with a beige color.

How to use Soundproofing Paint!

Use for autobody sound control and undercoating.  Pickup bed coating!  Computer side panels. Reduce noise in washing machines or dryers by painting the back sides.  Soundproofing built-in light or recessed  fixtures.

Noxudol 999:   Aircraft firewalls and engine mounts! (See this Video!  It increases the resistance to fire of in-flight conditions). Paint your plywood shear walls.

Technical data for noxudol 3101 More Videos on this Product!



Interior windows are fitted to the inside frame of your existing windows and held in place with magnets, providing excellent sound reduction.  Please give us some info on how to contact you about how the windows are fitted and to discuss your needs.  Indicate if you feel competent to measure them and install them or need someone to come out and do it. It’s best to have one of our experts call you.  (We pay for the call that way!).

See our MagnaSeal Sytem!

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floors and ceilings Our walk-in soundproofing store is located at 455 EAST CARMEL ST, SAN MARCOS, CA. 92078 -- Open 8-5 Weekdays. Saturdays 'till Noon! Location Map & Street View. Nearby Airports: San Diego, Palomar (Carlsbad), (Coaster, too!) Oceanside, Fallbrook, Temecula (Rancho California: French Valley). Call for pickup! (888) 942-7723 Se Hable Espanol!