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Archive for the ‘How To Do It’ Category

Soundproofing FAQs

Soundproofing Table of Contents:

How do I?     Where can I find?     Why doesn’t ?      Who is?     What is?      When is?

How do I find more information on noise control and soundproofing?

See those link on the left sidebar? It links you to specific areas of this site that addresses particular soundproof problems. Everything we’ve learned in talking with people who have experience in sound control and the soundproofing materials to use has been put into these pages. This is practical info, not geared to controlled soundproofing lab tests and lab numbers.

You may want to get a copy of the EPA soundproof reprint: “Quieting: A practical Guide to Noise Control”, we’ve reprinted it as a public service and it’s available for just postage and the photo copying costs – $9.50 PP ($18 Foreign). You can order from the web site with your credit card! You can even download it for a small fee ($4.95) -and don’t forget your local library! (Give them your copy when done!).  Some of our selected books are at ““.  Even a free download of “How To Soundproof Light Aircraft” – of use to those interested in soundproofing vehicles.

How do I soundproof my window? I can’t get a good nights sleep?

There are several methods to get relief from sound passing through a window, depending on whether you need light or not. These are, in order of importance:

1. Replace the window with a vinyl framed “double/triple paned” glass window, available from your local hardware store.

2. Add another window on the inside frame of your existing window. We have “snap-in” windows for this!

3. Place a sound barrier in the window frame, blocking the sound (and the light).

4. Use acoustical drapes to block sound as they do in hotels and motels.

Noise control reductions of 50%-90% are reported. Go here for other options.

How do I soundproof a wall? I can hear the people next door talking and suspect they can hear me too!

You bet they can hear everything just as you do! If you’re renting, you probably won’t want to spend too much money on modifications, so go see how one guy soundproofed the wall of his apartment. If you’re of a mind to take down the drywall on your side or can spare the space for a “false wall” check the construction techniques used to soundproof a house. Soundproof Ceilings?  OPTIONS

I’m A Musician In A Band,  How do I soundproof my room for practice?

Some people think they can hang some rugs, (substitute mattresses, egg-crate, foam rubber, etc for “rugs” above), and get an acceptable noise reduction as to where the neighbors won’t call the cops. Not so! See the myths page for more details.

To find how to do it right, see the web page here on “Soundproofing A Garage” Also, Portable sound rooms.  Music Rooms

Where can I find soundproofing materials for my particular problem?

Many common materials available locally can be used for soundproofing, such as bricks, concrete blocks, sand bags, roll roofing, drywall, tile backer board, hay-bales and many others, depending on your problem. Professional materials are needed many times because common materials aren’t suitable or effective enough, depending on the job at hand. Some materials that may seem suitable are not! See the myths section of the website to avoid costly mistakes.

Why doesn’t my landlord help me more?

It’s usually a question of money. That’s why most people renting want a soundproof solution they can take with them when they move, which you can do when you put our insulating mat on panels. You need to point out the enhancement to his property value of a soundproofing project and maybe he’ll buy into it!

There’s too much info here! It’s Confusing! How can I find out just what I need?

Just call us! We’ll be glad to answer your specific questions. That’s what we are here for, to help you quickly understand what you need to know in order to avoid making expensive mistakes. Please don’t call on our toll free order line- thereby tying it up for those wishing to place orders, call us on the technical Support line at (760) 752-3030  We’re here 8-5 weekdays Pacific Time. If the line is busy, give us 5-10 minutes and try again.  Also see the Forum and the technical email line (the email box) where we answer questions quickly and clearly.

You can leave orders, card numbers, info, etc on our answer machine after hours, it’s safe and secure.

Who is the “Super Soundproofing Company™”?

We’re “Brick and Mortar”! We’ve been selling “Super Soundproofing” materials since 1990, mostly to the aviation industry, world-wide. We’ve added to our sound control product line and expanded with this web site in 1997 to bring these hard to find materials to ordinary people who need them for everyday applications.

This site is not about us! It’s about you and how we can help you. There are some snobbish sound control businesses that have come on line with “Million Dollar Websites” geared to expanding their sales from their industrial base. They offer very little in informative content, basically flogging their common audio control room sound deadening products as “soundproofing” materials.

Unlike most of them, you can talk to us by phone and we’re here to help you (760) 752-3030 9-5 Pacific Time, 5 days a week. Others are just jumping on the bandwagon- beware!  Also see “How to pick a soundproofing supplier”.  Applies to contractors too!

What is the difference between acoustical foams?

Common acoustical foams are usually open cell, urethane or polyester expanded foams. Because they are open cell, they absorb and pass sound readily. Usually they are used to condition a room which has bad acoustics, such as reverberation due to reflective, hard surfaces.

Closed cell foams, such as our “Super Soundproofing Mat” absorbs readily but does not pass sound easily, making it a good barrier as well. Made of vinyl nitrile, it will not absorb odor and has excellent moisture, durability and fire resistance.  Some think it’s the same as neoprene- NOT!

What is the difference between a sound absorber and a barrier?

Absorbers tend to pass sound easily, while barriers block sound. Combined together they make a “Sound Control System”. Our mat is the best and the least inexpensive as we cut it from bulk rolls.

Our “Super Soundproofing Flooring” and “Floor Mat” are barriers make of a 1/8th inch thick “Loaded Vinyl” that weighs one pound per sq ft!  Almost like lead and performs very similar.  (We have lead too!) The Floor Mat has an added 1/4″ foam bonded to it for a vibration isolator. Typical applications are to place the “Flooring” under carpets and to apply to walls under or over the drywall. The floor mat is used where added soundproofing is needed and the foam backing would be needed to add to the sound reduction.

When is the Government going to do something about noise pollution?

The government has been doing something in the form of expanded powers of OSHA and the EPA. But more grass roots activity is being taken by organizations like target=”_blank” rel=”nofollow”> which has combined resources to help those with noise pollution problems.

1. They can put pressure on city governments and even condo associations!

2. Raise awareness about noise pollution

3. Create, collect, and distribute information and resources regarding noise pollution

4. Strengthen laws and governmental efforts to control noise pollution

5. Establish networks among environmental, professional, medical, governmental, and activist groups working on noise   control issues

6. Assist activists working against noise pollution.

The mission of our Noise Control Pollution Clearinghouse is to create more civil cities and more natural rural and wilderness areas by reducing noise pollution at the source by using soundproofing products


Church Soundproofing

More Myths – CHURCH Soundproofing: Wires in Ceiling?

Here’s an interesting exchange retrieved from the USEgroup: alt.sci.physics.acoustics (A rather snobbish UK group). wrote:

> My church has built a new parish hall that has a vaulted ceiling (a v-shape,

> just like the roof, open, with the trusses visible) and no carpet. The room

> is fairly large. Sounds echo, vibrate, and bounce all over the place. It is

> difficult to hear someone sitting near you because of the problems.

> I have heard that stretching a wire length wise across the ceiling may have

> sound absorption characteristics which would improve the noise in the room. Is

> this correct and how do you set it up? Any other suggestions?

> Thank you for any input.

> Chip


It is a commonly held superstition that wires of random length strung in a church ceiling will reduce reverberation. The overly reverberant condition that you report will be cured only by adding sound absorptive material. An acoustical

consultant can advise you on which absorbers to use, how many to use, and where to place them for maximum effectiveness.

Having briefly answered the question, I report to fellow acousticians that this superstition is evidently much older than I supposed!

If I correctly understood what Leo Beranek said at the San Diego meeting in December ’97, this superstition goes back at least as far as Roman times! Dr. David Lubman


BJ’s Note: It worked because all the people coming to church to observe caused a greater absorption of sound in the church from the great number of bodies of the church goers…. Cushions on hard pews may work almost as well, too.

Back to MYTHS

Acoustical Soundproofing Curtains, Drapes, Clear sheeting and Strip Doors

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Soundproofing Acoustical Curtains, Drapes and Strip Doors

Super Soundproofing™ specializes in providing out-of-the-box and creative solutions to solve your acoustical issues. We have with us a rich product portfolio exclusively designed for reducing excessive noise in industrial, commercial, domestic and institutional areas. Our acoustical soundproofing solutions are not only cost-effective but they also offer the desired results when in use at any facility.

Know About the Most Effective and Inexpensive Acoustical Soundproofing Solutions from Super Soundproofing™

We have been successfully serving the huge demands of customers from various sectors by delivering Acoustical Curtains, Drapes and Strip Doors. These products from Super Soundproofing™ protect people from rising noise pollution created by gymnasiums, arenas, community leagues, office spaces, recreation venues, schools, and several other facilities.

Soundproofing Acoustical Curtains/Draperies – In order to achieve effective soundproofing, your room or facility must be at least 40% of its total area covered with absorbent material to reduce annoying reverberation. Our custom made, ingeniously tested and field proven sound blocking curtains/draperies block outside noise and light. Acoustical curtains/draperies are highly useful for adding absorbency to a room that has many reflective surfaces. Moreover, they are the quick, effective and cheap way to improve room acoustics as well as to block sound from coming through walls, doorways, windows, patio doors, etc. They are largely purchased for hanging on thin walls, such as mobile homes. Super Soundproofing™ acoustical soundproofing solutions such as curtains/draperies are highly effective for rooms of:

  • Residential
  • Commercial
  • Lofts
  • Condos
  • Classrooms
  • Auditoriums
  • Meeting/Conference rooms
  • Churches
  • Retail spaces
  • Office spaces
  • Home theaters
  • Vocal booths
  • Dance studios
  • Home recording studios
  • Hotel& Motel Rooms
  • Medical offices
  • Hospitals
  • Counseling offices

Use double-sided tape to seal curtain edges to wall for improved results! Also to seal center overlap of two curtains where they join together. Use it left, right and center to seal vertical edges of curtains thus reducing sound migration around and through the curtain joints at the walls and center overlap. Magnetic tape can also be cut into strips and used for this purpose.

Make sure that the curtains/draperies are not stretched tight and completely extended flat to the wall. For achieving the best soundproofing effect, acoustical curtains/draperies can be doubled up to be used in areas where maximum sound penetrates. You can hang the first layer on regular curtain rods, and then the second layer on extended rods. These kinds of installation create airspace between the first layer and the second. Call us to know more. Acoustical Soundproofing Curtains



Prefabricated, ready to install Vinyl Strip Doors have excellent optical clarity, permitting good visibility through doorways. Useful for thermal, dust control and noise reduction.



Mass Loaded Vinyl have lead-free barium metal powder or silicon in vinyl for added weight and sound control!

Mass Loaded Curtains (Black/Gray, can’t see through) are available in 4′ wide sheet – These are used to achieve noise reduction by placing over windows and doors.

Lbs P.S.F Thickness Width S.T.C Part No Per Foot
1 .107 48″ 26 099107 $7.55

These are also used to increase noise reduction by placing over windows and doors.

NoteMake sure to use double-sided tape to seal curtain edges to wall for improved results. Also, remember to seal the center overlap of two curtains where they join together. A complete sealing of vertical edges of curtains helps reduce sound migration around and through the curtain joints. A magnetic tape can also be cut into strips and used for this purpose.

See-Thru Vinyl Curtain (Clear) – Works great for car wash facilities! Select the most appropriate see-thru curtains from the below chart.

Lbs P.S.F Thickness Width S.T.C Part No Per Foot
.5 .080 48″ 20 099080 $15.05
.7 .120 48″ 23 099120 $23.15
1.0 .160 48″ 26 099160 $30.65

Measure your doorway or window and order the most appropriate curtain size. For instance, if your doorway is 8′ 2″ high, you would need to order 8′ 6”feet of material. Material can be grommeted or mounted using some sandwich boards to hold it at the top. The board is then mounted over the doorway using screws, nails or chain. Walk-through panels can easily be made with vertical length-way slits. Use mass loaded vinyl on walls as a backing for the noise control curtains to increase their acoustic qualities.

Walk-Through Vinyl Strip Doors – Super Soundproofing™ possess a rich inventory of vinyl strip doors to fit all types of doors, no matter the size, style and location. Prefabricated and ready-to-install vinyl strip doors come with excellent optical clarity, which permits good visibility through doorways. Preferably designed for achieving thermal, dust control and noise reduction, our category of strip doors are available in a wide variety of thicknesses and widths. Specifications of vinyl strip doors available to achieve substantial noise reduction at Super Soundproofing™ include:

Lbs P.S.F Thickness Width S.T.C Part No Per Foot
.1 .107 48″ 26 099107 $7.55
.5 .080 48″ 20 099080 $15.05
.7 .120 48″ 23 099120 $23.15
1.0 .160 48″ 26 099160 $30.65

Call us to know more.

Measure your doorway and window and then make a most appropriate selection from the above list. Using the perfect size vinyl strip doors is imperative to achieve maximum sound proofing as expected. Mass Loaded Vinyl Opaque

Select Mass Loaded Vinyl Opaque or Clear Vinyl material (or both!) from chart. 8″ X .080- $ 2.50 Ft  12″ X .120 – $4 Ft

Measure your doorway or window and order to the closest foot in length. For instance, if your doorway was 8′ 2″ high, you would need to order 9′ feet of material. Material can be grommeted (Get the tool at the hardware store!) or mount with some “sandwich” boards holding it at the top. The board is then mounted over the doorway using screws, nails or chain. (Or use the mounting kits shown).

Cut vinyl to length with snips or sharp knife. Allow to brush against the floor for maximum sound reduction. Walk-through panels can easily be made from the 4′ wide sheet with vertical length-way slits. Or order precut strip material from us. Double-up or hang on both sides of the opening for maximum effectiveness.

Our See-Thru Vinyl curtains Meet California Fire Marshall Registration No F-561 Use the mass loaded vinyl (MLV) on walls as a backing for the noise control curtains above to increase effective sound blocking. As effective as lead sheeting!Buy Now Soundproofing Acoustical Drapes

“Clamp Type” Door mounting kits for Strip or Sheet

The bottom edges of the holding bar are rounded to reduce wear on your strips as they swing.

6′ Wide Kit……………………….$125.95

8′ Wide Kit………………………$149.95




Intelligent Acoustical Soundproofing Solutions Unrivalled by None in the Market CEILING MOUNT



The same strip mounts as a wall or ceiling  mount.
strip mounts




Ceiling Mount Wall Mount

We pride ourselves in our capability to provide the customers with inventive acoustical solutions they ask for. Since we possess a rich inventory of a wide array of soundproofing solutions, we never say no to any of the requirements raised by the customers. We continuously upgrade our inventory with intelligent solutions to meet the frequently changing needs and expectations of customers.

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Soundproofing Mass Loaded Vinyl Barrier, Super Soundproofing Co™

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Use our “SUPER” Soundproofing Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV)-  The widest selection anywhere!

NEW!  Flexible Fireproof Noise Barrier (FFNB) material for airborne Sound Control.  Now in WHITE!  


Soundproofing FloorsMLV– The ultimate noise barrier  for Flooring or Walls- almost as good as lead! (Yes we have AcoustiLead!)

Sound transfer through floors and ceilings is a continuing noise control problem, especially in older buildings. There are two main issues regarding noise transfer: airborne sound and impact noise. Each are different and require separate soundproofing treatments.  Airborne sound is most easily dealt with using MLV.

Impact noise is dealt with by using  “Super Seal” subfloor or SSP-FL or Tl.  Normally  you need both impact underlayment and MLV with a foam backing or a combination of both.  (Best to call us about our unadvertised solutions).

Use this “Mass Loaded Vinyl” barrier (MLV),  (1 Lb per Sq. Ft!), as a carpet under-layment. It’s as heavy as lead that provides a soundproofing layer on the floor and under the carpet and padding for noise control.  It is a tough, wear resistant material that may be placed on or under floating (not nailed) hard floors for slowing noise transfer above and below.   When used as an under-layment for hardwood floors or tile, it reduces sound  transfer dramatically.  Can also be used in walls and ceilings.  When installed inside the wall, it more than doubles the STC.  For instance, a standard hollow sheetrock  wall, with 1/2″ Gypsum board on metal studs has a STC rating of about 20. (Ordinary conversation through it can be understood).  Adding the MLV can increase it to about 53!  (Loud shouting is not heard).  Just staple or glue the material to the wall, then cover with another layer of sheetrock- tape off and paint.  Want more sound reduction? Use a double layer of MLV or double weight (2 Lb) material!

You can use our fireproof white MLV as a direct wall covering – inquire!

MLV is commonly used as a carpet underlayment,  one type  has a foam backing, the other doesn’t.  The foam backing mat is recommended under carpets as it provides a vibration cushion, floating the barrier just off the floor. This helps reduce footfall and impact noise.  MLV without the foam cushion would be under the subfloor or in walls and ceilings or as second layer to increase sound reduction even more.  The type with closed cell foam is far more effective than the other two types in reducing impact noise. See the reference to Dimple Pad material further down this page.

Typically used this way: seal subfloor cracks and gaps with acoustical caulk first.  Tape seams of the floor with metal tape.  Lay the MLV down, butting together joints and seal edges with metal tape.  Cover with carpet pad and carpet.  If using the one with and without foam backing together, place the foam backed material down first.  Install 90 degrees to each other.  Important!  Do not skip the step of inspecting and caulking/taping the gaps and seams of your bare subfloor!

Mass Loaded Vinyl BarrierSound control Wall


Combined with the “Double drywall” technique described in the resilient channels page, MLV provides the ultimate in sound reduction.

MLV may even be painted. (Clean well with alcohol and use vinyl or latex paint).

Fast way to get superior sound control in your apartment: and make it removable  Buy imitation wall paneling from the hardware store.  Carefully cut to fit your wall. (No gaps). Apply MLV to the back of the paneling with either contact cement or using the version with PSA. (Pressure Sensitive Adhesive).

Attach to your wall with a few finishing nails. Panels can be removed with a minimum of small holes when you move!  Tip:  Using metal tape on the walls at the place where the joints are will increase the sound blocking effectiveness of your panels. (It may be hard to remove!)

The three types of Paintable MLV we sell are the:

GOOD:  Super Soundproofing™ MLV:  STC is 26. Same as above for homes and offices, but without the foam backing.  Somewhat  less expensive at approx. $5.02 per running foot. ($1.25 per Sq. Ft). Available in 4′ widths X 30′ lengths: $1.14 Sq. Ft. or   $5.63.  per running ft. for 54″ wide Material.  Also available with peel-off adhesive backing! (Eliminates the mess and odor of adhesive and is easier to install on walls/ceilings.) Available in 2# weights too. See the buy button or better, CALL!

BETTER: Super Soundproofing™ MLV:  STC is over 26 because of the composite foam bonded to it.Useful for vehicles, too. 1/8″ thick. It has a 1/4″ open cell foam bonded to the underside to provide additional vibration isolation.    $11.22 per running foot: (54″ wide). ($2.49 per Sq Ft). PN 09-00004-F   30′ Roll: $258.75 09-00004-1.

BEST: We also have Super Soundproofing™ MLV- Has a better STC as well as a IIC rating.same as above but with 1/4″ closed cell foam bonded to the MLV for superior noise damping and blocking. $15.93 per running foot: (48″ wide). ($3.61 per Sq Ft). PN 09-00005CC-54F  30′ Roll: $433.20 PN 09-00005CC-54R    [BUY]

Flammability:  These Versions  meets certain UL and building Department requirements but are not completely FAA approved for certified aircraft. (Homebuilt OK).  We do now have a certain MLV that meet Firecode regulations- inquire!

Use MLV under machinery, speakers  and health / exercise machines for noise control into and through the floor!  You’ll need at least a 3′-4′ margin of Mass Loaded Vinyl barrier around your running machine to reduce flanking sound from penetrating down through the floor.  Special dimple Vibration pads will help here too!

Another use we discovered is to lay panels of the “MLV” (loaded vinyl barrier with a foam backing),  inside/above a dropped acoustical tile ceiling.  The material needs to be cut so that it overlaps each adjacent layer by a few inches.  This is done by cutting a  length of the 54″ wide material long-ways into two 4’X2’3″ sections.  These will then cover  two 2’X4′ sections of the dropped ceiling tiles with an overlap.  Start with a run of ceiling tiles in place against the walls and caulk the seam at the wall in place using our non-hardening caulk. (See our “Products” page). Cut a slit in the panels with a knife or scissors to clear the suspension wires and caulk the cut seam and the area where the  wire passes through with a heavy blob of caulk.  Before starting this job, evaluate the strength of the wires holding the ceiling up.  If need be, add wires to reinforce the suspension system.  Bear in mind this mat weighs one pound per square foot and the ceiling support wires may not be  normally stressed for this kind of weight.  (But we’ve found most are overly wired and are OK).

Things to keep in mind:  Be sure to cover the entire area, caulking gaps and seams to prevent air flow that will carry sound. Have someone  help to cut panels and hand them up. This will make it much easier while working standing on a ladder inside the ceiling area.. If the walls of the room do not extend up through the ceiling to the roof, consider adding higher walls to the “stub” walls so as to prevent flanking sound from passing through  and over  from the adjoining ceiling.

Tip: lay out the material and leave overnight to let it flatten and to prevent curl and  billow type bubbles due to uneven expansion.  This is an inert material and has no ability to outgas.

Dimple Pad: Now, a product for reducing impact noise for under hardwood and tile floors!: SUPER-SEAL:  “Sub-Floor -Plus”  floor underlayment. At last! A dimpled product that reduces impact noise created by walking on hardwood or tile floors. It’s just 3/8″ thick, comes in rolls 6’6″ wide. Just $1.85 per sq. ft. (You’ll need a combination of this and MLV too if there is an issue with airborne noise).  VIDEO

We have yet another product that combines impact and airborne sound control in one composite membrane.

Tips for new construction or renovation of floors:

The subfloor is the culprit in sound transfer.  Sometimes it’s not thick enough, or strong enough, (where thin subfloor panels are used over floor joists that are spaced too widely for the thickness of subflooring).  Or where the subfloor is improperly attached with too few fasteners or just nailed.  (Use screws!)  If your floor joists are exposed, now is the time to forestall problems in the future.  As a minimum, use our green Sound Isolation Tape to tape the faces of the joists/subfloor joints  to help prevent squeaks and to reduce sound transfer into the joists. It comes in 1-7/16″,  2″ or 3″ widths for this purpose.  You can apply the tape easily by hand.

Better, buy the 2′ or 4′ wide material (yes, that’s 2 “Feet” and 4 “Feet” wide!), similar to “Green Glue”. to cover the underside of the entire sub-floor panel.  This will add dampening to the panel, reducing the resonant “boom” when walking on the floor.  We have that, too – Inquire!

All these tapes come with a peel off backing for easy, clean, no-mess adhesive application.  

A less expensive, more labor intensive method is to glue  1/8″ or 1/4″ closed cell acoustical foam to the underside of your sub-floor panels. (Cost: About $1 per sq. ft.)

This also works well for drywall panels, too.

There are many ways to use these sound barrier underlayment materials in combination- for maximum results call us to help you tailor your installation for your specific needs. 760 752 3030 8-5 PST 5 Days

New!  “FFNB”  Flexible Fireproof  Noise Barrier.  Concerned about flammability  of MLV? – use FFNB instead – CALL!

For fully floated floors:  CALL! 



Bay Area Noise Control CA. ST. LIC. 785260 Member ASA & CISCA

Windows , Consultation Services , Floors , Ceilings , Walls , Mechanical/Electrical ,


You were great to work with from our first meeting, to all the follow-up calls and e-mails. All of our questions

were answered honestly and in a timely fashion, you stayed in touch with us and up until the end made sure the

windows were put in correctly. I really appreciate all your personal service, patience, and professionalism.

Lee, you were terrific to work with and I definitely will recommend you to anyone asking me about windows

in general or soundproofing in particular.

Noe Valley Home Owner, San Francisco


I would like to offer my wholesale recommendation of Lee Brenner.

My goals were to improve the appearance of my home, to conserve energy, and to reduce noise (the

street car passes by our home).

Lee did a truly outstanding job, and what really set him apart was his meticulous attention to detail.

Lee work crew proved friendly and competent. I would hire him again in a second!

My neighbor is doing new windows, and I recommended you €¦ You did a great job!

John, Sunset, San Francisco


Hi Lee

I think that Don and family are really happy with the Noise Control Windows in the bedroom

it makes a difference heat-wise also, so they are very happy chappies! I hope you are doing well,

and not too busy! Take some time and enjoy the sunshine!

Michelle Bartley, Personal Assistant to Don Johnson, Pacific Heights, San Francisco



Wow! What a difference €¦ Now it is €œtoo quiet€ in our bedroom, (on busy Haight St.) …

I can’t sleep. I’m sure I will get use to it! Your installers were friendly and efficient. I appreciate

their help in re-hanging the roller shades. Through the process of this Victorian renovation,

dealing with you has been one of the few pleasures.

Rob and Lou, San Francisco


Dear Lee,

This is just a note to thank you for my new noise-reducing windows and the services you provided.

The windows in wood encasings are absolutely beautiful and function as you described they would.

I would especially like to thank your crew for the professional installation and manners. I look forward

to working with you on my garage door noise and vibration-project. Thanks again.

Ron, Potrero Hill/Mission, San Francisco



Just wanted to let you know that your workman left and completed all the final work to my total satisfaction.

Arleen, San Bruno


Lee and crew,

All is fine with the windows and I’m very happy with the way things turned out. Thanks again and thanks

too for your thorough follow-up.

Sharel, Peninsula


Thank you very much for the secondary windows! We€™re really happy with them.

Colleen, Union City


RE: My new windows [Standard Dual Pane with Laminated glass option] €¦

After you all left yesterday, I was finally able to relax and listen to the sounds of the street. It actually is

quieter in the house. Thank you. When I was reading my son to sleep, it felt much more peaceful and

cozy. It did not feel like the cars were in the room with us. The sounds are still there of course,

but they are much duller and much more unobtrusive background sounds. Thank you for taking

such good care of us.



Just wanted to let you know that we are extremely happy with the noise abatement

project you did for us. The windows look great. They keep out the noise problem we had. What I

really appreciate was your helping customize a solution that really worked for us. Of all the home

remodeling projects we did, we were happiest by far with your company’s work.


Lum, San Bruno



Front window looks better than I imagined. It looks like the old traditional window casing so my wife

was happy. Clean and efficient and in one day. Couldn’t be happier.

Acoustic Windows, Napa, Silverado Trail


Hi Lee,

Yes, the noise reduction [special noise control windows] is quite impressive thank you!

Nick, Laurel Village, San Francisco



Your team did a first class job on the window replacement. We are thrilled with the result and would

be happy to offer our enthusiastic recommendation for your work. We will certainly contact you when

it’s time to do our rear windows! The quality of your work is obvious and it is a great comfort to us

knowing that the work was done well.

George, Great Hwy, San Francisco


Hi Lee,

I wanted you to know that the windows are great and the noise is

significantly reduced in the two bedrooms. I’m really happy with them. Thanks!

Joani, Dolores Park area, San Francisco

Hi Lee,

The inspector signed off today with no problems. I think that does it!

Thank you again for everything you’ve done. We sure are glad we went

with your work €¦ having quality windows is especially comforting

now that winter really has begun! Once our checkbook recharges, we

will definitely be in touch regarding replacing the rear windows, where noise control will be a serious


If you’d like us to provide a reference for your work, don’t hesitate to ask.

Thanks again.

George, NASA-Ames Research Center, Ocean Beach, San Francisco


Hi Lee,

I wanted you to know that the windows are great and the noise is significantly reduced in the two bedrooms.

I’m really happy with them. Thanks!

Mission District, San Francisco


The new soundproof windows have tremendously improved our lives. I can now sleep through the night!

The sound of the neighbors€™ dogs has been reduced dramatically and is no longer invasive. We finally

have peace and quiet and can relax in our home. We are so glad that we found you!

Kristina and Robert, Mission Terrace, San Francisco


Hi Lee,

Wallace and his partner did a nice job [with secondary windows] and it has, as you promised, made a big
difference … I’m thrilled.
Gretchen, San Francisco


love the stillness of the day! 🙂
Ruth, Noe Valley, San Francisco


Windows , Consultation Services , Floors ,
Ceilings , Walls , Mechanical/Electrical ,

Consultation Services

Mr. Brenner,

Thank you for your educational visit yesterday. As a result of your visit,

the powers that be have decided to shuffle people around and supply two

separate offices for our interviewers. Thank you for your suggestions and

price quotes, but you do not have to research the items we had discussed.

Your consultation was money well spent!

Non-profit offices, Oakland

Lee, Thank you again for your very thorough and enlightening consultation.

Maurine, renter, Western Addition, San Francisco


Thanks again for the consultation, I learned a lot and felt I got my

money worth.

San Jose

Thanks so much for the informative presentation. We are still in the process of deciding which
solution will be best for us and how soon we will want to proceed. At any rate, we feel much more
comfortable knowing we have been well-informed and will be able to make an educated decision
about what is right for us. Thanks so much for your time.
Stacey, San Francisco


Thanks again for your help — the [phone] consultation was extremely useful. I may have additional
questions as things move forward, and if so, I will give you a call!

Alaine Perry, M.D.


Lee, thanks for the consultatation today and the list of options you have at hand. I certainly learned a
lot and have quite a bit to think about here.

I will read the materials you sent along tomorrow morning. Chances are, I will have a few questions
for you coming out of that. (You know, a better educated consumer is a better consumer)

Nice to meet you today and I hope that we can do some business
John Heins, San Francisco and New York



Windows , Consultation Services , Floors ,
Ceilings , Walls , Mechanical/Electrical ,


Hey, Lee! I’m happy to report that I hear hardly any noise from my upstairs neighbors. Things have worked

out really well. I can give you this testimonial now that I’ve had ample experience with the special

underlayment you supplied for the upstairs floor.

Rose, Glen Park, San Francisco


The premium underlayment you placed under my new carpet in my upstairs rental apartment to control

the noise from entering my residence below really blocked the airborne noise and reduced the impact

noise substantially. Everything worked very well, as you said it would.

Dick, Castro, San Francisco



We are loving the new carpet with special noise mats and the noise reduction.

Olivia, North Point, San Francisco


Those stairs are amazing! I can’t even hear myself walk! Thanks for all your hard work and follow-through.

Landlord, Glenn Park, San Francisco


Windows , Consultation Services , Floors ,
Ceilings , Walls , Mechanical/Electrical ,



The work seems to have done the trick [noise control ceiling].

I’m generally happy with everything especially the soundproofing,

which was the main thing. The crown molding was a nice touch and makes the rooms look much better.

Ted, Palo Alto



We are very pleased with the results we can hear barely a sound between the two bedrooms

(one above and one below). Thanks again.


We both are very appreciative of your attention to all this. Michael commented the other day how unlike working with you is from working with most contractors, and he’s worked with quite a few in his work. Thank you so much.

Judith and Michael, Mission District, San Francisco


Hi Lee,

So far, we definitely think that it is an improvement. When they are in their bedroom above ours,

we haven’t heard them talking, TV etc. When they are in the hall or the room adjacent to the

bedroom, their voices are transmitted to the bedroom. Closing the bedroom and den doors help

quite a bit. Overall, we are very happy with the soundproofing and definitely wish to inquire

about doing the same thing to our den (adjacent to the bedroom). We are also interested in

some options for the hall ceiling near our bedroom.

Laura, San Francisco


Good news, still haven’t been kept awake by my neighbor €¦ seems like I would have by now if it was going to happen.

Tiffany, San Francisco


Dear Lee,
I am writing to let you know that Prescott and I are very pleased with the ceiling soundproofing
you did in our place last September.

We have the resources now to pursue having our den done in the same way. Please let us know
how you would like to proceed.
Mission District, San Francisco



, Windows , Consultation Services , Floors ,
, Ceilings , Walls , Mechanical/Electrical ,


Wow! What a great, helpful and thorough reply! Thank you so much, Lee. I will work on implementing your ideas, and REALLY appreciate your generosity.

Psychology Offices, Potrero Hill, San Francisco


Hi Lee,

I would like to express my appreciation regarding the sound wall and isolators that you had recommended for my laundromat. The combination works very well, and my neighbor [with a common wall] is pleased with the result. Also, your time and effort through out this project is appreciated, I would not hesitate to refer or recommend your services to any potential clients

you may have.

Laundromat Owner, Noe Valley, San Francisco



It is now some months since you installed the sound deadening materials on the front of my office. The construction across the street is proceeding.

Last week there were, at one point, five cement mixers lined up in front, awaiting their turn to pour forth into the building site. We could hear the racket inside, but it was €œsound€ rather than €œnoise,€ as hoped. I am very pleased with the results. I am often in the back of my office, but patients wait in the front, and my office manager sits and works in front. She is a musician, and is very happy with the decreased noise.

She had been, as you may recall, particularly apprehensive about the nearby construction.

We’ve not been through a winter yet, but I have noted that we’re cooler inside on the hot fall days, as well. A happy customer.

Dr. Hennie, San Francisco Mission District Doctors€™ Office


Dear Lee,

The job looks great. Thanks for all your hard work. We are very happy that the job

is completed and that you had the technical knowledge to do exactly what was needed

to be done. Thanks!


Re: Acrylic Noise Panel

Thanks, noise level has been greatly reduced.

Lily, Marina District, San Francisco

Thanks for adding the additional soundproofing to my bedroom wall. After

your crew left my home, with the work completed promptly and a fastidious

clean up, I was anxious for my neighbors to get home so I could hear how

well the new noise control €œworked.€ I waited for three days, but they didn’t

come home. I ran into my neighbor in the entry hall on the forth day, and

it turns out they’d been home all along. I guess the noise control worked.

Count me as a satisfied customer. Thanks.

Town home/condo, Russian Hill, San Francisco

Work turned out nice [noise control wall] and crew was neat and cleaned up after themselves. Thanks!



Our painter, who maintains a very high standard, said that the plastering of

the wall, [after a Noise Control modification to such wall] which included coving between it and the ceiling, was very well done.

Mr. B., Noe Valley, San Francisco


Dear Lee,

I wanted to thank you and your team for doing a wonderful job insulating our house. Your attention to detail and extra little items such as plugging the front door peep hole and skylight cleaning and sealing were a very nice touch. If you ever need a recommendation, please let me know. Your team was professional and did a nice job cleaning up afterwards. Your pricing was better than the other two estimates as well! Thanks again.

Troy, Sunset District, San Francisco


, Windows , Consultation Services , Floors ,
, Ceilings , Walls , Mechanical/Electrical ,


Dear Lee,

The handyman, Mark shut off the power that goes to the phones and transformer in my closet and the buzzing noise was gone. Thus, your diagnosis about the transformer seems to be correct. We’re currently working on a system to change the doorbell to a phone-based system so that the transformer would no longer be necessary and can be removed. Just thought you’d like to hear the good news.

Gail, The Castro, San Francisco

We are enjoying our quiet apartment!

Catherine, Pacific Heights, San Francisco


Read about other soundproofing problems and solutions!  Click on the “Forums”

Soundproofing Walls & Ceilings


The partition walls in most family homes are constructed of Drywall (Sheetrock/Gypsum Board) firmly attached to both sides of a wood or metal stud frame. When sound waves hit one side of the wall it causes the drywall on that side to vibrate. Since the drywall is rigidly connected to the stud frame, the vibration is transmitted right through the studwork to the drywall on the other side. Those same vibrations traveling through the studwork can also duct noise throughout adjacent floors and ceilings. Noise will radiate easily through the structure because there’s almost nothing there to isolate or absorb the sound waves.

To reduce this effect and to dampen the sound waves, resilient metal channels can be inserted between one of the drywall walls and the studwork. The resilient channels act as shock absorbers, greatly reducing vibrations coming from either side of the wall from passing through the wall. Absorbent mat is used inside the wall to cushion the channel/drywall and to provide an absorbent compartment to trap sound waves.

The resilient channel technique by itself typically adds 3 to 5 (or more) Sound Transmission Class (STC) points to an otherwise identical wall or ceiling. This by itself, is not usually sufficient to meet total noise level reduction requirements under most circumstances. Other added construction materials and techniques are usually needed, such as adding absorbent mat and/or barrier material to the wall space. Some considerations are the amount of wall space that can be donated as mounting the wallboard on these 1/2″ thick channels increases the thickness of the wall (or ceiling) somewhat.

It is important to distinguish acoustically effective resilient channels from hat channels, Z-channels and other lightweight metal furring systems that drywall contractors are used to installing. These other systems may resemble resilient channels, but they allow no movement and are simply too rigid to be effective. Only true resilient channels have any acoustical benefits.

It is extremely important to install these channels correctly. Improper installation will nullify any advantage gained from using it in the first place.

There are a few simple procedures that need to be followed when using them. In existing walls, large opening should be cut in the drywall panels to Open Up the wall and expose the dead air to the new wall covering. One large dead air space that is created and linked together contributes greatly to the sound control system.  In fact, adding furring strips (spacing blocks) of 1″-2″ increases the sound reduction effect (especially at low frequencies of sound) by increasing the dead airspace. The channels are then applied directly over Super Soundproofing MLV barrier mat that should be first used to cover the wall. The new drywall panels are then coated with absorbent closed cell matting material to create an absorbent compartment to dampen sound waves.  The absorbent mat is applied like wallpaper using contact cement and a roller. The thickness of material used depends on the level of sound control desired: More is better!   In an open, studded wall, sound barrier material (MLV) is typically stapled to the studs, but for best results, between a layer of soundboard and drywall attached to the channels, even though it can be cut and weaved between the studding. On walls and ceilings, the channel should be mounted at a right angle to the framing. On walls, mount with the narrow flange along the bottom and the larger flange up. This allows the drywall’s weight to draw itself away from the framing. Make sure all the flanges should are pointing in the same direction.

When fastening the drywall to the channels, the mounting screws are to be driven into the channels in-between the studs or joists. It is absolutely critical not to “short out” the resilient channels by screwing long screws into the studs behind them. This rigid connection would destroy their benefit of “Floating” the wall or ceiling assembly.

The resilient channels should be held back from intersecting surfaces about ¼” on the side edges, and about 4-6″ from the top and bottom of the wall.

It does little good to carefully attach the channels in the middle of the wall if one installs baseboard screws that may connect the entire bottom edge to sill plates. Similarly, it is easy to “short out” the resilient channels at the top of the wall by screwing into headers. Leave space where the wallboard is not connected.  The drywall attached to the channels also needs to be held back about ¼” from similar intersecting corners. If the drywall panel edges are jammed against wall or ceiling panels, then they will tend to be rendered ineffective. For walls, the drywall edges should be resting on neoprene vibration pads and sealed with caulk before the wall is finish taped and painted. This provides a supporting base on which to mount the wall and “Unload” the channels from the weight of the drywall panels. Use 2 of the 2″ pads per vertical sheet of drywall or, 1 every 2′ or so..  The weight of the drywall will tend to crush the drywall edge down on the pad, narrowing the gap to the floor to be sealed.  The gaps should then be sealed, as air-tight as physically possible, with plenty of flexible non-hardening caulk. “Backer Square” or Lead tape can also be used for this.

When the resilient channels are properly installed, it should be possible to push and slightly flex the wall or ceiling surface. A lack of flex indicates that the channels too rigid, perhaps because they are shorted out by too long of screws fastened into the wood framing. Also, it usually does not matter which side of the wall is resiliently hung.  Of course, doing both sides of the wall is better. For ceilings, use RC-2, which is simply two-legged RC-1. If not readily available, RC-1 can be used but more of it is needed.

Resilient Channels and “Soundboard”

Sound deadening board is a material made from compressed wood fibers (Sometimes called “construction panel”)  another similar trade name is “Homasote” ( Somewhat better, but considerably more expensive) and it functions as a thick paper cushion. “Celotex” also makes a version.  It used to be that theory was that soundboard would provide basic resilient isolation for the drywall layers on top. However, screws or nails breach the system and reduce the isolation to the point where, acoustically speaking, it would be better to replace the screws with construction adhesive as much as possible.  When using resilient channel and double layers,  use extra care to screw the drywall mostly into the soundboard and not through to the metal channels and not to touch studs underneath. The benefit is that the different physical acoustical properties of the drywall and soundboard complement each other, improving sound reduction qualities.  Mass loaded barrier is appropriately used between the soundboard and drywall for many added STC points.  A construction adhesive like “Liquid Nails” may be used if need be.


(Note the large flange is up).

Resilient channel is a thin metal channel designed to substantially improve the sound insulation of drywall, sheetrock and plasterboard walls and ceilings. The channel effectively isolates the drywall from the framing studwork, reducing €˜direct contact€™ to help dissipate sound which would normally be directly transferred through the frame. This system is easy to install and produces dramatic results. The channels measure about 1/2″ in thickness and the wide flange (drywall mount) is about a 1 1/4″ wide.  The vibration absorpsion properties of the channel can be additionally enhanced by applying thin (1/8″) “Super Soundproofing Absorbent Tape” to the flange of the drywall mount. If not using the channel or Sound Clips, at least use the tape on the face of the studs.

Example:   A standard metal framed stud partition lined both sides with ½” drywall with fiberglass insulation in the wall cavity, (Note: “Packing” in the insulation many may think increases the thermal properties, but it will definitely decrease sound reduction),  gives an STC rating of around 20-25 or less.

Conversation can be heard).

The same wall, but with just resilient channel between the drywall and frame, to one side only, can increase the rating to as high as a STC rating of 35 or so. (Now, only loud shouting can be heard).

Even greater improvements  in soundproofing the wall can be gained by:

  •  Adding an additional layer of drywall on channel to the other side.
  • Adding a layer of “Wonderboard” or “Duroc” a concrete based construction material  to add more mass (this will help reduce low frequency sound). Add to existing wall, first.
  • Adding a layer of “Super Soundproofing Silencer “Mass Loaded”  Barrier” to the existing wall or adding a layer of Super Soundproofing absorbent Mat” to the existing wall, or both.
  • Mounting “Soundboard” (Celotex-sound deadening board) or “Homasote” to the channels before the drywall is attached. Caulk and seal the edges of the panels for best results.

For maximum effect and best results: use “all of the above”.

Channel Cutting: Resilient Channel can easily be cut with tin-snips or hacksaw.

Installation: Walls require less channel than a ceiling for obvious reasons. If they are to be fitted directly to the underside of an existing ceiling, furring strips should be screwed to the ceiling at 2′ centers, right angle to the joists.


The absorbent mat of the appropriate thickness should be applied inside the joists/studding before this stage.

Care must be taken to ensure that the attachments used are secured to the underlying joists where they cross and NOT just to the existing drywall.

The channel should be screwed to all of the strips with drywall screws. Channel should be joined by overlapping them by a few inches with the corrugated webs nested together and BOTH base flanges screwed through to the strip beneath. A “pop” rivet would add extra security to the channel joint.

Drywall Installation: Furring strips are usually not required unless added dead air space is needed in the new wall/ceiling. A panel of 5/8″ “Firecode” Drywall, or similar composite (“Sheetrock, Plasterboard”, “Gypsumboard” etc), should be used and fitted to within ¼” of the surrounding walls/ceiling. Joints should be staggered in all directions. ALL joints should be secured to the resilient strip with the appropriate length screws close to their edges. Adding our tape to the channel pads the metal where it touches the wallboard. (If the panel is not covered with mat already).

Attaching: Secure the first of the material to be used to the resilient channel with the appropriate length drywall screws, making sure that the screws ONLY penetrate the corrugated web part of the resilient channel. IT IS ESSENTIAL THAT THE SCREWS ONLY PENETRATE THE CORRUGATED WEBS AND DO NOT COME INTO CONTACT WITH THE RESILIENT channel base SUPPORTS OR furring strips. Do not overly tighten the screws or they may pull through the thin metal channel. Just “snug” them.

Attach the second layer of material (drywall) using the correct length LONGER screws taking care to offset the joints of the first layer and screw only into the first layer of material, not into the resilient channel. (If not using a panel adhesive, a few screws may be put through to the channel if need be).  A ball peen hammer will dimple the drywall for help in setting the screw heads. Do not break the paper facing of the drywall panels with the screws as a reduction of strength will result.

Edge Sealant: Flexible acoustical caulking compound that will remain flexible for years should be applied to ALL the edge perimeters after the installation of EACH layer to achieve optimum results.


All drywall joints should be finished with traditional jointing methods and plaster covered before painting/decorating in the normal manner. Do not heavily “mud” the gaps. (Tape and Paint). Protruding screws may be lightly tapped with a hammer and carefully tightened some more by hand. Do not break through the paper covering!

Resilient Channel: Part/Number: “RC-1”

Dimensions: Steel Gauge :   .018

Weight : approx. 0.37Kg/m

Length :  Cut for UPS shipping: ( 6€™)

Availability: Manufactured by “Unimast”.  Check with them or your local Builders Supply for availability in 12′ length, otherwise order from us.  (We cut to 6′ for UPS shipping:).  We also have RC-2 and DWFC.

Performance: When installed beneath an existing ceiling with soundproofing absorbent material applied as above, improvements in reducing both airborne noise and impact sound would normally be well in excess of 300%. This means a STC in excess of 50: (Loud shouting can€™t be heard). Fire resistance would be about 1 hour.

TIPS for Walls: Don€™t allow the drywall sheets to set directly on the floor.  Use vibration pads made of ribbed neoprene and cork to place under drywall sheets for support when used for walls. Caulk well.  Stagger joints. Use metal tape on underlying joints. Caulk well. Don€™t screw baseboard onto both the pads and the wall base sill.

Alternative installation of absorbent mat: apply to the inside wall or ceiling panel to be fitted against the resilient channel. This may be somewhat easier than applying it to the existing wall or ceiling.

When installing the channel over thicker mat (like 1″), don’t pull mounting screws down too tightly.  This will deform the channel. Don’t break the paper of the drywall with the screw!

Remodeling a  typical wall for average sound reduction: Apply Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV) directly to the existing wall.  (Two layers is best). Stapling will hold it temporarily in place. Now install at least one layer of 5/8″ firecode drywall over it.  Tape off and paint.  This will more than double the sound reduction of the existing wall.

Remodeling a  typical wall for even more sound reduction:  (Where existing wall has little or no sound blocking qualities).  Take drywall off on one side, then the joists/studding, electrical boxes inside is caulked well and our 1/4″ acoustical mat is glued to the opposite inside wall and the exposed studding is covered, too.  Our “Silencer” flooring (MLV) is stapled to the joists/studding, covering the ceiling/wall completely.  Seams are sealed with caulk or tape.  (Lead tape improves the seam seal). For an 8′ high wall, three RC-1 channels are installed horizontally over the wall, one in the middle, one at the top and bottom, located a few inches down to avoid the footer and header.  Then 5/8″ “firecode” drywall (this is now also available with a lead foil covering) and is laid out on sawhorses and covered with a layer of the 1/4″ foam mat using contact cement and a roller. These panels are installed on the channels with screws and is supported by 2″ square vibration pads located every 2 feet or so.  The bottom of the drywall is caulked tight and the seams too.

To help fill the gap and reduce the amount of caulk use “Backer Square”

Additional soundproofing material will increase the sound control ability of the wall in proportion to the type and amount added.

Be sure to cover the entire wall, no gaps left open.  Gaps amounting to 2-3% of the wall covered can reduce the effectiveness of the job by 50%!

Due to vast differences in the care taken using these installation techniques, information contained in these instructions is given in good faith but without any kind of warranty.The EPA Manual has more information on this and other techniques.See our prices pages for product/cost information and availability or call for free consulting!   760-752-3030NEW! Sound Control Clips hold the panels better and are easier to install than resilient channel: Get more than double the STC of resilient channel!  Call about the new SuperSound Clips!



Yes, at last- someone has done something to provide a sound, secure and portable studio and band practice room.  Recording equipment and sound engineer support is also available.

Suitable not only for music practice and recording but for putting really loud things in, like generators, compressors, testing race engines, etc.


portable placeThese units are available for purchase or to rent.  They can come equipped with the best in sound insulation, air conditioning and secure locks for security.


They can be delivered and picked up when done.  You can have them positioned on your driveway or other property. (Won’t fit in a garage that has 7’6′ ceilings as they are 8′ high).  Rent by the week, month or year.

Want to have one?  We’ll show you how!

Call us for more details.  (Pacific time)  760-752-3030

Soundproofing Windows


Magnetite ... Your Window Solution

How It Works

Frequently asked Questions



General Information

The skills required to install Magnetite?® windows are those used by most Do-It-Yourself homeowners. A screwdriver, a hacksaw or tinsnips, garden pruners, and a measuring tape are all the tools you will need. You can easily find a local handyman, if you feel unable to accomplish the installation by yourself. Magnetite® Windows are generally installed within the window jamb, between the window sashes and the front edge of the casing. Check carefully for anything that might conflict with the installation area. Blinds, draperies, etc. can be simply adjusted as needed. Magnetite® windows only require a space of 1″ in the jamb area for the frame and Magnetite® panel.

Selecting your Magnetite® Window Kit

After determining where your Magnetite® window will fit, measure your existing window, both width and height. Enter this information for each window in the space provided on the left column. For each window, select the kit size that is the same as or larger than the longer side of your existing window, as the example shows. You may also mix and match. For example, one 36″ kit and one 48″ kit can make two 36″ wide by 48″ tall (or smaller) windows, or visa versa. If your window is operable, and you wish to make the Magnetite®panel easily operable as well, you can purchase a Magnetite divider kit, in addition to the full size window kit.

SIZES AVAILABLE: 36″ – 48″ – 60″ – 72″ – 84″

For exact measurement of acrylic panel, subtract 1/2″ from width and 3/8″ from height.

Detailed instructions are included with each kit.


See the Magnaseal version



Fabric has long been known for it’s sound absorption qualities. Options include curtains/drapes, fixed fiberglass panels or framing to hold cloth fabric panels.


Advantage: Quick and easy installation

Disadvantage: Can be costly for custom installations

Fixed Panels

Advantage: Readily available

Disadvantage:Fabric wrapped panels are costly to make, ship and install


Advantage: No limit to size or design of fabric framed wall (or ceiling) coverings. No more painting of walls- change the fabric for a new design!

Disadvantage: Usually requires contractors with skilled installers.

Clearly superior, the framed wall covering system uses a frame of PVC or metal track for which to stretch over a fabric covering . This frame is fitted to the wall using mitered corner joints (supplied) to make a pleasing finished installation assembly for the fabric, which is stretched over the frame. An absorbent material is usually placed on the wall under the fabric covering for added sound control. (You’ve probably seen such installations in theatres and music halls).

Sound barrier (MLV) may be added to the wall before framing is added to add sound blocking qualities to the wall as well.

Your choice of fabrics allow an unlimited variety of materials and design only limited by your imagination. Most fabrics come in rolls 60″ wide and unlimited lengths. The fabric can easily be changed due to the unique tuckable edge design and you can use any supplier of fabric (buy fire-retardant) to keep costs low. The fabric can even have a design or office logo limited only by your imagination.

No adhesives, magnetics or exotic fasteners are used to attach the track to your room walls.

Our system uses simplified methods of installation suitable for the DYI’er or Handyman to obtain professional results at far less cost than other frame-able wall covering systems. Such a system is even removable with a minimum of wall patching and touch-up painting.

Snap-together track and base make installation a real snap! Do a simple wall:

or walls!

Easily add absorbency and block sound in/out of a room and add pleasant esthetics too! Reception areas become quieter and more pleasant.

Profiles of track available

Materials/tools list:

Dimensions of the wall(s) to be covered.

Enough track for the perimeter

Drill and fasteners Square (best for joining panels).


Tape measure Round

Putty knife

Right angle awl

Fabric with desired pattern or custom design

You may want to enhance your wall installation with absorbency material like foam and/or sound barrier material such as Mass Loaded Vinyl. (MLV).

You will receive a illustrated detailed instruction manual with each purchase of the framing system.

Don’t want to do-it-yourself? Call, we’ll be happy to put you with an installer in your area. Email

Call for more info! 760 752 3030 PDT 5 days


Two kinds of sound problems

Acoustical: where sound is reverberating in a room or is airborne noise.

Impact sound: where sound is vibratory in nature and travels though a medium like wood. (Wood floor joists, studding, etc).

When sound is traveling through the air, coming into or passing out of an area, the first rule of sound control is to place a barrier between it and the target. (You).

When sound is coming in or out of a area by way of the structure, sound control is best achieved by dealing with it as near the source as possible. Damping and isolation of the transfer medium may also be effective.

Acoustical sound can also be reflected off hard surfaces, creating the “Mess hall” effect of too much sound (people) in a closed space and where the standing waves of interference cause intelligibility problems.  The solution is adding absorbent materials to the room.

Different treatments with different materials and techniques are required for these different situations and sometimes combinations of techniques and materials to fit the situation, for instance in soundproofing parrots or generator sets!.

Soundproofing walls and ceilings using “Sound Clips”  (New Way!):  GO

Soundproofing walls and ceilings using Resilient Channel.  (Old way!):  GO

Soundproofing floors. GO

When you have Acoustical reverberation. GO

Soundproofing windows. GO

Soundproofing Doors. GO


Call us to discuss.  760 752 3030 8-5 Pacific Time,  5 Days a week.

What’s your most important soundproofing question you’d like to ask us? (Use this form to get a very, very quick reply 24X7!) If you leave your number, we'll even call you! Get an even quicker answer: Call us toll free! 888-942-7723 8-5 Pacific time.

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Our soundproofing solutions have helped thousands of our clients! They can work for you, too!

floors and ceilings Our walk-in soundproofing store is located at 455 EAST CARMEL ST, SAN MARCOS, CA. 92078 -- Open 8-5 Weekdays. Saturdays 'till Noon! Location Map & Street View. Nearby Airports: San Diego, Palomar (Carlsbad), (Coaster, too!) Oceanside, Fallbrook, Temecula (Rancho California: French Valley). Call for pickup! (888) 942-7723 Se Hable Espanol!