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Archive for the ‘How To Do It’ Category

Super SoundProofing™ WebSite What’s NEW!



  • See Soundproofing videos at the new SuperSoundproofingTube video site! Get some fame! Upload your soundproofing remodel videos!
  • Green Glue comes to the Super Soundproofing Co™! We were the First!
  • Now available from us: Natural Cotton Fibers for sound control within walls and ceilings. A simple sound insulator with both thermal and soundproofing qualities!,
  • A really economical Sound Control Booth you can make yourself!
  • We’ve added info on the “Poor Man’s Sound Isolation Window” to the site. Here’s a way to get some reasonable sound control through your window without spending a fortune!
  • A new kind of Furring Track!  Yes, Truly new way of adding many STC points to your wall.  See our Insul-Trax kit.
  • A material to place under hardwood floors and tile to reduce impact noise! Now in stock! Call and ask about our “Super-Sound-Seal”.  Also a new way for gym floors to reduce impact noise.      760 752 3030
  • We’ve added a new kind of “Sound Clip” replacing the old expensive kinds. See “Your Options” and comparisons!
  • We now have “Hangers” for your speaker cabinets! Float them from the ceiling on a chain to perfectly isolate them from the walls and floor!
  • New! A brand new product! “Double-sided Foam” We apply our adhesive to both sides of our closed cell 1/8″ PVC foam, then cover it with protective film. The first peel off backing is pulled from the foam and it’s then easy to stick it to walls, ceiling, etc. The other backing is then removed so you can paste on more thicker foam, MLV, wallboard, ceiling tiles, even wallpaper! Use it to sandwich together two panels of drywall! (Sheetrock). Use this anywhere liquid gluing is unsatisfactory because of difficult access, the odor, mess, etc. Use it for blocking sound. Quickly dampen sound vibrations on joists inside ceilings and on studs. Available in 2′ and 4.5′ (Yes, that’s feet!) widths in 50′ and 100′ rolls. (Inquire!)
  • Tips for builders.
  • We’ve  a scanning service , to scan our site for hacker vulnerability. They scan every day to be sure your private info is not at risk while surfing our site..
  • Just Added! Closed cell padding tape for studding, joists, etc. This 1/8″ closed cell foam tape is self adhesive and applies easily. Use it to increase sound attenuation in walls, floors, ceilings by padding ceiling, wall and floor panels. Use it on resilient channel and furring track! Stops floor squeaks! The simplest, cheapest soundproofing technique available. Even if you don’t do anything else, this will increase sound loss as much as 10 db or more right in the speech range.
  • We now have a good, economical Spray Adhesive. for attaching foam to walls, ceiling, etc. One coat allows removal. two coats makes it permanent.
  • Added: Cotton Batting:  Thermal Insulation with great acoustical properties.
  • Acoustical “Lead” is getting harder to get. We still have it in tape and sheet!
  • Major price increases in the mass loaded vinyl and lead sheeting (Hit the “Prices” bar at the left) But thanks to our customers loyalty and due to re-negotiation of our contracts, we’ve become a high volume supplier of these materials and are holding the line for you!
  • Used acoustical curtains are in stock but we are getting very low. Get yours now before we run out!
  • We  link with Granahan, a real good consultant and contractor for San Diego / Southern California. Want to see a soundproofing job? See his installation pix. We have a list of other contractors of some in other areas, check for one in your area by calling us.
  • Resilient Sound Isolation Sound Clip! Doubles the sound resistance of a typical wall. These little rubber and metal fixtures are easy to use and are twice as effective as just metal strips (resilient channel). Screws to the stud with 2 fasteners!
  • Adding noise to reduce noise? Masking sound. Some have reported that the electronic devices made by Marpacmask out sound very well. (So do fans, water fountains and fish tanks).
  • Sound-proofing Doors! How to do it! For real!
  • Our message center: (The Forum– left sidebar) Very popular! Ask your questions of the experts and let everyone have at ’em! Or search the database for answers.
  • A portable sound control room has been added to our list of products. Available now!.
  • A acoustical foam sample kit of materials is now available. $10 gets you one sound control kit and a coupon good for $10 off your next order! And you can now download the EPA sound control book in Adobe format,  still preserving the illustrations.
  • Due to popular demand, we now have available VINYL SEE-THRU/WALK-THRU Doorway kits. This vinyl material is also useful for windows!
  • We’ve added Complete Products shopping cart so you can see at a glance everything we have to offer. If you don’t see it, ask! We probably have it but haven’t revealed it to our copycat competitors yet.
  • We’ve added information on INTERIOR WINDOWS to the site! Yes, now you can reduce sound coming through your existing window by up to 80% over your present window installation with or without any modification to it or the frame.  “Snap-ins” are now available from a us, or do-it -yourself!
  • Now a new page dedicated to actual sound proofing SOLUTIONS to specific noise problems.
  • You need a copy of the EPA’s out-of-print book on Sound proofing. “Quieting in the Home”. (Over a hundred pages). Read this and you won’t need a consultant!  More info about this book and others, too! You can download it too!
  • Check out the new “Sitemap” and take a walking tour of our soundproofed house! Musician? Some new features , the newest is about thoroughly sound proofing a garage!
  • If you like what we’re doing, please help us stay in business by buying sound proofing materials from us. Imitators selling inferior materials are really cutting into our business. Their unhappy customers then call us for help! Check them out first with the Better Business Bureau! There may be a reason they are not a member and don’t take credit cards! We won’t just tell you what you want to hear just to make a sale, but they will!     How to Select a Soundproofing Supplier!
  • We’re been a real company since 1988, not a “Dot-Com”. We manufacture and stock all of these materials and know how to use them. We’re not a “drop shipper” like many of our competitors working out of their garage, bedroom, etc.. We quote prices right on this web site and you can order and get delivery right now! (Most items shipped same day!)

FOR MUSIC PRACTICE and Soundproofing Musical 


You should give careful thought to the selection of a place to play your music!

Soundproofing should be done as a last resort. It can be expensive and time consuming.

Commercial locations are best because people go home around 5 PM, just when musicians may start to be creative!

If playing locally, try to anticipate conflicts. Neighbors who may complain, either next door or even way down the street may cause you lots of grief. Before you start playing, go and meet whoever could be a problem and make it clear that you have consideration for them. This advice alone can save you lots of soundproofing dollars! Mentioning that you plan to soundproof if it needs it is a real plus. Give them your phone number to call instead of the police. Once they start complaining, real expensive soundproofing effort may not be enough! A little “PR” will go a long way!

No neighbors nearby or at all would be the best solution of all!  Our Band with Music Room Soundproofing

If you can’t take your practice someplace where the sound will not be a problem for someone, try to choose the best place for your practice room where the level of annoyance will be at a minimum. The basement is best, followed by a room (or building) located as far from a potential complainer as possible. Masonry makes the best soundproofing material, especially for low frequencies, like drums. Garages are difficult because of the large door opening. Our portable sound booth could be placed in a garage or even a room. A mobile sound practice studio may fit your needs.

Windows are your enemy because they pass sound so readily. Hollow core doors are also almost transparent to sound. (Any door that’s unsealed will pass sound easily). Don’t think carpet and egg-crate material will help soundproof anything, they’ll just make the music room “dead”, seemingly soundproof.  Sometimes, adequate sound reduction can be had with a “Double-Drywall” technique where a layer of drywall is applied over the existing wall, (and/or ceiling) with visco-elastic coating,  suspended on resilient metal channels  or sound clips with a layer of thin acoustical absorbent mat in between.  This provides more mass, vibration isolation and absorbency with one technique.

In many cases, the best solution to a very high volume of noise is a “Room-within-a-room” with the inner walls a foot or so from the existing walls. Covering the walls with acoustical mat will certainly help, but it’s hard to predict to what degree. Perhaps a floating drummers pad or even a full floating floor or room will help.  This means some knowledge of sound control and carpentry is needed to do some non-structural construction. Careful attention to certain details (not mentioned on the site), could mean the difference between success and failure of your sound reduction project!  (You’ll get these vital details when you become our customer!)

A typical practice room would have sound barrier material applied to the old walls before building a false wall and ceiling out from that wall a foot or two. The airspace between must be sealed off with caulk and be a complete compartment of itself. (Each wall, ceiling and floor). Another layer of barrier, resilient channel and a layer of  “Homasote” or “Green Glue” and drywall would complete the walls and ceiling.

For a door, use an exterior door, or better, two doors opening opposite ways. More on doors.

Specifics about these methods and materials, including illustrations and detailed instructions on construction can be had from our Internet web pages. Our soundproof booth may be of interest. We have panels that can be simply hung on the existing walls, too.

Expert Village
Jul. 31, 2006. 11:03 PM EST
In this instructional video, you will learn about the best kinds of microphones to use when assembling your own recording studio.
Expert Village
Jul. 31, 2006. 11:03 PM EST
Learn about microphones for a professional recording studio in this how-to video clip on professional recording equipment.
Expert Village
Jul. 31, 2006. 11:03 PM EST
Learn the function of the preamplifier, or preamp, in a professional recording studio in this how-to video clip on professional recording equipment.
Expert Village
Jul. 31, 2006. 11:03 PM EST
Learn what types of recording studio software are available in this how-to video clip on professional recording equipment.
Expert Village
Jul. 31, 2006. 11:03 PM EST
Learn how to soundproof a professional recording studio in this how-to video clip on professional recording equipment.

Mold and how to avoid it

Do Soundproofing While Preventing Mold!


Newspapers and television programs are increasingly reporting on mold problems with newer homes and schools.

In one such instance, the Ballard family of Texas had their home demolished in April of this year due to mold infestation that could not be removed. Their son suffered permanently scarred asthmatic lungs, while the father lost his memory and his job. The mold got so bad they needed hepa filters to enter the house.

Erin Brockovich and her family are also battling mold related illnesses, like respiratory ailments and chronic headaches, to name a few. Tests on the home revealed serious construction flaws and high levels of several molds. Blood test results indicated a severe reaction to two of the molds that showed up in the home. For more information, visit (search Ortiz) under the “Landmark Toxic Mold Legislation Draws Support From Local and National Advocates” article.

There are specific environmental conditions required for mold to propagate. A specific temperature range and source of food are the basic factors that must be in place, but the most important element is the presence of moisture.


Moisture can be present within building walls, ceilings, attics, and crawlspaces via:

  1. gravity
  2. capillary action
  3. air leakage
  4. diffusion

In order to minimize the potential for mold growth, a building envelope system has to meet all of the following criteria:

  • The building envelope must prevent water from penetrating. Therefore, the structure must be properly sealed and contain an effective drainage plane / rain screen.
  • The building envelope must control air leakage. Uncontrolled air leakage leads to condensation and mold growth within the building envelope. A sealed building is more of a soundproof building.
  • The components of the building should resist moisture and once wet should then have the potential to dry quickly (they should be hydrophobic). As supported by test results from leading building product laboratories, Super Soundproofing Absorbent Mat does not wick or absorb water. Moisture cannot pass through SSP mat and once dry, the product returns to its full performance value without deterioration.
  • All sound control components should be able to be installed with relative ease and should not be installation-dependent for their ultimate performance. Good results can be had by the average DIY’er or handyman.

The key to winning the war against mold is to take pre-emptive measures for the future health of your family. It’s not the materials so much as the infiltration of moisture. For more information on how to evaluate your home for susceptibility to mold infestation, check with a mold control expert.

Certain types of air purifiers are effective against established mold.

Soundproofing Resources Page, Super Soundproofing Co,

Super Soundproofing LINKS to other Resources.

Here’s a list of links and resources of interest for those of you with noise control and soundproofing issues, not in any order of importance.  This is by no means all the links on this subject on our site, but just the ones we’ve taken the time to catalog and place here for your convenience. The most recent are listed at the top.

See Soundproofing videos at the new SuperSoundproofingTube video site! Get some fame!  Upload your soundproofing, remodel videos!

The right stuff to put in your floor for airborne sound and impact noise!>[GO]

We have now combined all our books and info about soundproofing on our Books page.  Go here for a quick look-see of the material we recommend.  Some are hardcopies, some can be downloaded instantly and some are FREE!

A couple of the most popular books located there is on sound control for buildings:  Building Sound Control Try it!  Another important book is Noise Control Manual For Residential Buildings Both of these books are highly recommended as far more comprehensive than our EPA reprint.

We constantly get questions about where to get someone to do an acoustical evaluation or install material.  Check with your State building contractors license board.  Mostly, people doing this type of thing need to be licensed by the state they are in.  But, if you are willing to educate them and don’t want to do-it-yourself, almost any handyman can do the Don't Dispair!soundproofing type of insulation installation, not-with-standing many states requirements for licensing.  Some of the Builders, Internet usegroups such as and other Do-It-Yourself forums are invaluable sources of information!    To see a cost estimate of the work, check in with get-A-Quote! One of the most asked questions is answered here! How to hire a contractor. Or How To Select Soundproofing Suppliers!

We have a list of contractors in many areas, check for one near your location by calling us.

Discussion community for home remodeling, renovation and repair. Also general discussion on topics such as insurance, buying/selling and more.

Located in the UK? Here’s a site with similar products to ours, but you’ll still need our “Books”!   (and the sample kit may allow you to match up with something similar, obtainable locally!).

Another interesting link for those who want Music Rooms or you have a need to quiet your  piano?   This other site shows how to quiet the keys!

Home repair and upgrading: Best site we’ve seen so far is Jim Evans effort.  Check out the  “Computer and Office Desks” Page – the have additional resources for home improvement, too.  

We get lots of requests for info about noise-canceling, or Active Noise Reduction.  (ANR)  In Desert Storm, the enemy were astounded and dismayed when they couldn’t hear the American tanks drive right up into their camps!  That’s a link to a site on that subject.

Some of our customers have had good results by “Masking” annoying, intolerable noise with white noise generators made by MARPAC or SCAMPMASK.  Hard to see that adding more noise will relieve the noise, but to see if this will work for you, use a FM receiver tuned to between stations to see if this will tend to mask your noise source. A running fan will sometimes work, too.  A better inexpensive solution is headsets/earplugs: (Earmuffs).

Sound, noise,  legal problems?  Need help?  Try the NO-NONSENSE national clearinghouse to reduce noise pollution; They have impressive resources! Another site of interest is: The noise enforcement and code compliance experts, offering a full range of noise-related services. A link to a reading of annoyance and comparative zoning regulations is at BKL Consultants Ltd.

Our own FAQ page covers info gleaned from the old forums on the old (months ago) web site.  The other archived forums can be accessed from the Navigation sidebar. This is still very good info, just like our own current Forum.

For wet blow-in insulation, though it’s been found that it doesn’t have much sound insulation qualities, check the Nu-wool company for a dealer near you.  Don’t bother with common loose cellulose filling, it has even less  in acoustical properties!  (About the same as fiberglass insulation!) Another possibility is “Icynene”.  (They say it has “Noise reduction” but don’t say how much).  Cotton batting does!

Looking for HARD DATA about soundproofing measurements and comparisons of ratings?  Well, we don’t go into it much here on this site because it’s all relative and lab figures can be very misleading!  Materials behave differently depending on their care in installation and the surroundings. Annoyance levels are subjective and so is the materials to control them!  But if you need a noise control primer and want to look at some graphs and charts, here’s the site!

Churches usually have limited budgets, so the sound control in them may be badly handled.  Here’s some links to those specializing in this:

Church Myth: Wires for soundproofing!?

The Church Sound Discussion Group part of The Church Sound Network. Listing of appropriate books on sound systems.

Our own sound control Solutions to everyday noisy sound-proofing problems.


Products List

Soundproofing Myths You Should Know About!


Save time by avoiding these common soundproofing errors!


The video shows swatches of carpet “soundproofing” the room!”

As a service to those doing their own analysis, noise control planning and sound proofing, we’ve prepared this list of Don’t.  We can’t explore every aspect of doing a good soundproofing job, but avoiding certain materials and processes can save you lots of time and money.  Don’t waste time and money on ineffectiveness.  If you have lots of  time and wish to experiment with different techniques and unknown materials, please do so!  (and let us know how it comes out!).  Many people have made the errors mentioned here and some have been kind enough to pass them on to us for inclusion.  Please feel free to contribute!

Get Help!

If you have anything but a simple problem and the solution isn’t obvious, get help!  No need to figure this out all by yourself, it’s too easy to make expensive mistakes.  There ARE many experts doing work in this field.   Most states require them to be licensed. You can find help in the local yellow pages under “Acoustics” or check with your local building code department or state contractors license board.  For a contractor to work under your direction, locate one using the contractor locater service, such as ““,  listed at the bottom of our pages.  At least read everything on this site and better, get the EPA manual we sell here.Unless you have time and money to waste: DON’T experiment!  We’ll help you- call us!  Or we’ll even call you! (See the sidebar).

Read up on other’s experiences: see the sidebar for the “FORUM”.  Maybe your situation has been dealt with there!

Materials Problems

Some materials to avoid are:

  • common “Eggcrate” cardboard egg holders.You have no idea the number of people who tell us their trials and tribulations to find quantities of it, buy it and install it only to find it does little or no soundproofing! This appears to be because it is frequency “holy”.  That is, it has characteristics where sound at certain frequencies passes freely through it!  Some have told us that some sound transmissions seems to be somewhat enhanced!
  • foam rubber of the common sort, such as that of which rubber mattresses are made.  While this has some possibilities, other disadvantages don’t, (such as it’s durability:),  the cost isn’t all that much different than “made for soundproofing” products when so much more of it is needed to be the equivalent of professional materials. Lastly, and maybe most important is that it will burn like crazy!
  • rubber floor mat. One would think a rubber material would be a good soundproofer and perhaps it is if properly used, but simply laying it on the floor will do little against noise coming in (or going out).  Rubber and Neoprene are in the same class here.
  • old mattresses nailed to the walls.  This technique has it’s followers, but unless butted well together with no spaces, caulked edges, and only if you are willing to put up with the possible odor, mold and moisture they have or can accumulate, not to mention unwanted rodent critter type “guests” that may take up residence – are they a possibility.
  • dark paint? Yes, a lady called to check with us if what she was told was true: that painting her hallway with a dark color would perform a soundproofing job.  She had been assured it would.
  • cellulose- the kind that they “pump” into walls.  Some people make a living doing this- how?  While it’s not useless, it’s not very effective.  When you pay big money to have this done, you would want to see some serious results, not have someone say  “Well, I THINK I can tell some difference!” (Spray-on wet cellulose over opened walls may be a different matter).
  • carpet – Old or New.  Doesn’t make much difference, it will all deteriorate and begin to stink.  The newer will take longer, that’s all.  Same problems as with the Mattress as explained above. Carpet WILL increase the acoustic absorbency of a room, but do little in the way of soundproofing.  (Blocking sound coming through).
  • common fiberglass insulation: makes a great thermal insulator, but not a very good acoustical insulator. (Really!) Contrary to the hyped Lab Reports of the drywall manufacturers!
  • plywood panels/ particle board are not good for soundproofing as wood transfers sound very well.
  • hay bales Yes, these make fine soundproofing units, but are rather temporary, subject to fire, critters and vandalism and obviously for outdoor use. Plastic covering can make them more hygienic.
  • Now, our favorite myth- wires in the ceiling!?   Check this out!

Procedure Problems

Sound control is sometimes not easy to understand.  Some things that make logical, perfectly good sense don’t seem to work well in practice.  Laboratory results don’t always prove out in the field.  Field techniques can’t always be duplicated in the lab.  One area of misunderstanding is  wall space inside a wall.  Dead air space works for you, better than filling it up with something like styrofoam, etc.!  If you do, sometimes packing stuff in can make the sound transfer worse! A larger air space is superior to several smaller ones. This means a wall with 6″ studs creating a 6″ air space is superior to a wall with 4″ studs and a extra layer of drywall with 1″ air spacing on each side.

Don’t blindly accept the experiences of others who have done soundproofing before, there may be newer materials and techniques that cost less and provide more newly available.

There are standard ways of dealing with walls, floors and ceiling, but each case is different.  Because of this, different material combinations are required.  Run your plan by us, we’ll point out if it can be improved.  Use the email link below.

Interior Windows for Soundproofing

Glass or Acrylic Interior Windows for MAXIMUM SOUND CONTROL!

Soundproof windows!

If you need REAL sound reduction, interior secondary soundproof windows may be the solution. An 80% sound reduction and more can be had over the performance of the prime window!

These windows are made to fit inside the frame of your existing window, inside the living area, providing a large airspace between the existing window and the new one. This DEAD AIRSPACE increases noise reduction dramatically. Windows can be made to open or not, be flush or not and you can have a selection of frame, glass, tempered, tinted, etc.

If you can install a shower door, you can install one of these windows. The hardest part is taking fairly close measurements! You won’t find these  inside storm windows at Lowes or Home Depot!  [ BUY ]

More About

Noise reduction kits by Super Soundproofing Co™.

Noise Reduction Soundproofing Kits using Super Soundproofing™ Materials!

A variety of sound proofing methods and techniques can utilize our materials for noise reduction and abatement.   Make your own sound proofing kit by ordering the materials for it yourself.   Here are some of the most common uses for noise control as related to us by our customers:

Soundproofing a TV in the apartment overhead: Noise reduction eliminates a potential enemy!

The upstairs tenant was totally unaware of the loud annoyance she created for the folks downstairs by the noise of her TV.   The downstairs folks approached her very diplomatically and offered to install under her TV, without cost to her, our “Super Soundproofing™ Floor Mat” .  She agreed and they ordered five running feet of the floor mat material, P.N. 09-42750 (This is the 1/8″ thick “loaded vinyl” with a 1/4″ foam backing) and at the same time, ordered four small vibration pads

They picked up her TV and laid the mat over the rug, (it could have been placed underneath it), placed the isolation pads under the TV and report the sound heard from it  downstairs  was now reduced to a very low,  acceptable level.  The lady upstairs is more friendly now and the downstairs folks  report they’ve turned  a potential enemy into a friend.

Soundproofing a washer, dryer or refrigerator. The above works just as well for these sometimes noisy appliances!  Use a dab of a adhesive to the pad and the foot of the machine to keep ,it from “walking” out.  If you are wishing for some relief from such noise yourself, a pad of our Super Soundproofing™ Mat attached to the back wall, in addition to the barrier mat placed under it as explained regarding the TV above works wonders to reduce noise produced in the room.   Use at least half inch material, PN 09-42725. (one inch is better). Tip: They make “roll-out” casters for the fridge to make handling easier. (More about this noise reduction method!)

Portable panels: If you plan on moving but still want some immediate relief from sound  annoyances, make some portable panels you can take with you. Buy 4’X8′ wall paneling (also called “Panel-board”.  “Homasote” and ordinary “Soundboard” also works well.) from the hardware store and attach Super Soundproofing™ Mat to the backside with contact cement.   Use at least 1″ thick material. (PN 09-42730).  (Well, OK, 1/2″ may work pretty good, too).  Push the panels up into place on your wall using a long finishing nail here and there to hold them in place.  (Tip: seal the edges of your panels with our acoustical caulk for best results).  A noticeable sound level reduction will be made and you can take your panels with you!

You can leave them behind because they are so inexpensive.  (So is a material called “Wonderboard” Also Duroc,  which is made of concrete!).  Caulking around the edges of your panels as mentioned above is essential.  We have a new portable panel easily removed leaving little evidence they were in use. Call!

Window “Plugs”. The most popular method for getting a good nights sleep.  Use 2″ thick Super Soundproofing™ Mat (PN 09-42760) cut to the size of your window (s) and press fit into place. Flexible, yet firm, it will stay in place. More on this.  If the noise is so loud one panel doesn’t do it, use two.  A FM radio tuned to the hiss between stations will help to mask noise while sleeping, too.  (Also a running fan).

Investigate our Interior Windows for where you must have light and soundproofing too! (Or look into using clear vinyl sheeting as listed on our curtains page).

Masking sound.  Some have reported that the electronic devices made by Marpac mask out sound very well.  (You can use a fan in the summer!).

Noise Reduction for Doors!   How to do it!

Fencing Out Noise. Due to many requests, we’ll now give you some info on doing this:  Masonry walls are best.  Important!: Walls need to be at least 8′ high.  Federal noise reduction regulations normally preempt local height ordinances, so you should be able to go higher.  You can make your own noise panels using 4’X8′ sheets of CDX exterior plywood with our absorbent mat sandwiched between and bolted to the fence.  A layer of barrier material like our “Mass Loaded Curtain” material is then stapled over the assembly. These panels are to go on chain-link, wood or masonry fencing and absorb and block loud noise such as produced by machinery, roads and freeways.  They can be used in the backyard for noise reduction as they are designed for outside use.   Caulking seams is essential. Call us for more info.

Soundproofing a car hood: More on this here.

Need a copy of the EPA’s  popular (but out-of-print), book on Soundproofing? “QUIETING: A Practical Guide to Noise Control”?   (Over a hundred 8.5″X11″pages).  Read this and you won’t need a noise control consultant! Get info on sound walls, materials and STC ratings and much more!  Many illustrations.  We provide it for just $15 PP to cover copying costs and postage. Or you can download it now! Amaze everyone with your new-found expertise!  MORE

Acoustical Soundproofing Curtains, Drapes, Clear sheeting

Soundproofing Acoustical Curtains, Drapes. Yes! Our Noise Control Curtains and Clear Vinyl sheeting cuts sound and they are economical, too!

Any room should have at least 40% of it’s total area covered with absorbent material to reduce annoying reverberation, which reduces speech intelligibility.

Acoustical Curtains (Acoustical Draperies), are useful for adding absorbency to a room that has many reflective surfaces, such as home theatres, etc.. Sound control through a doorway? Yes! Soundproofing drapes are a quick, effective and cheap way to improve room acoustics (hang on the walls), as well as to block sound from coming through walls, doorways, windows, patio doors, etc.
A cheap way to get a good nights sleep!

We now have a good stock of used, (very good condition!), heavy-duty soundproofing pleated drapes removed from commercial soundproofing room installations. We have some various widths (Approx.) lengths to cover walls or windows in panels. They are made of a close woven vinyl or polyester/cotton blend satin fabric with a heavy plastic fabric-like backing of Therma-Form (creating a sound trapping space). These sound control curtains normally cost many hundreds ($$$), when new. Condition is quite good, but some slight discolorations or spotting may be evident but some of it may be easily removed. We have some more of different colors, your choice, out they go for peanut prices. Better get some before they are all gone! Lengths are for covering a wall (including a window) and sold by the inch of width: (1″ = $1). We have some with more spotting/damage for cheaper prices – inquire! These spotted ones have been proven inexpensive for bird rooms to reduce reverb. Pix below show darker than they really are on most browsers.

These drapes work best if they are not stretched tight and completely extended flat to the wall Pick a width that will allow some folding when fully pulled across. (Add about a third of the width for this). For the best soundproofing effect, try to allow at least a foot of margin around the window/door opening.

Any kind of acoustical curtains can be “doubled up” where maximum soundproofing is wanted: ___—-___—-___—-___ (Top View). Hang the first layer on regular curtain rods, then the second layer on extended rods, creating another airspace between the first set of curtains and the second. Both sides of a opening can be covered this way. These are heavy curtains (12-15 Lbs Each!) and may require a pole rod. (Get rods at the hardware store! Ask for “15 year warranty” rods.)

Use double-sided tape to seal curtain edges to wall for improved results! Also to seal center overlap of two curtains where they join together. Use it left, right and center to seal vertical edges of curtains thus reducing sound migration around and through the curtain joints at the walls and center overlap. Magnetic tape can also be cut into strips and used for this purpose.



Mass Loaded curtains have lead-free barium metal powder or silicon for added sound control!

See-Thru Vinyl curtains Meet California Fire Marshall Registration No F-561

Make these yourself by buying the material you need, cutting it and hanging it up. Save hundreds!

Mass Loaded Curtains (Opaque, can’t see through) – These are also used to increase noise reduction by placing over windows and doors.

See-Thru Curtains (Clear) – Works great for car wash facilities!

Select Mass Loaded Vinyl Opaque or Clear Vinyl material (or both!) from above chart. Measure your doorway or window and order to the closest half foot in length. For instance, if your doorway was 8′ 2″ high, you would need to order 8′ 6” feet of material. Material can be grommeted (Get the tool at the hardware store!) or mounted with some “sandwich” boards holding it at the top. The board is then mounted over the doorway using screws, nails or chain. Cut to length with snips. Allow to brush against the floor for maximum sound reduction. Walk-through panels can easily be made with vertical length-way slits. Double-up or hang on both sides of the opening for maximum effectiveness.

Use the mass loaded vinyl on walls as a backing for the noise control curtains above to increase effective sound blocking. As effective as lead sheeting!

Soundproofing a house

Soundproofing a House

A walking tour…..  using soundproofing products.

You swing out briskly walking trying to keep up with Robby, the clean-cut guy you met touring his apartment soundproofing job.

“Hey! Wait up, Robby!”  You puff.  “You’re going too fast!”

He slows a bit and says:  “We’ll have to hurry to get it all in, especially if you want to look at all the stuff I’m going to show you.  But anyway, here we are!”   Together you enter a average looking two story house on a quiet street.

Folks on the street idly eye you both  as Robby’s key opens the door.

You enter a wide hallway with doors leading off in different directions.

Robby speaks: “You’ll notice the doors in the hallway do not line up across from each other.  That’s so sound doesn’t transfer across and through opposite open doors.  This is one of the little known principles of soundproofing, called “staggering”.

“At the end of the hall is the basement. we can visit that at any time you like to see what special methods are needed for a good soundproofing job. One of these doors (a ‘double-door’, this side opening in, the other opening out), leads to the garage, where I’ll show you how we soundproofed it for band practice.

You notice that while the floor is hardwood, the wallpaper  covered the “Super Soundproofing mat” on the walls and ceiling contribute to the richness of the sound of your footsteps.

He comments:

“At least 25% of a room should have some absorbent material to reduce reverberation.   This can be furniture, carpet, or whatever.  If the balance is right the sound is rather pleasant. Lets go up the stairs”.   You follow obediently.

At the top of the stairs, another hallway is presented.  Again, doors open  off to the sides.

Robby says:  “Here we have carpet on the floor of the hallway to absorb sound because this is mostly a bedroom area.  Not much need be done for soundproofing purposes except for the bedroom floors as this is already a quiet area”.

“That door over there leads to a small apartment over the garage.  And that one is a “safe room“.

He pushes open  one of the doors.  “In this bedroom here, we must have something on the floor for soundproofing as this room is right over the living room.   Here we have made the floor a major part of our soundproofing effort.  Take these x-ray glasses and have a look.”

He hands you that appears to be a small video camera.

“See, on the LCD screen you can see right through the structure of whatever you point it at.  Adjust the “focus” to see further or less into the floor”.

“We call them our “Super Soundproofing Looking Glasses”. he says proudly.

With a little practice you can look at the underlying structure of the flooring through the camera.

Clearly you can see the floor joists, the sub flooring and their overlays.


“What’s so special about this?”  You ask.

“Well, not much except that we’ve taken the trouble to put  “Soundboard” up between the rafters from below and selected special recycled carpet padding for the overlay.  The most important item is the use of the “Super Soundproofing Floor Mat”.  It’s what they call a loaded vinyl and weighs about one pound per square foot.  That makes it an excellent soundproofing material”

“Could you use something else?”

“Sure, some inexpensive things like acoustical ceiling panels could be used instead of the Soundboard, but there’s not much of a price differential.  The recycled carpet padding costs even less than regular padding!  The SSP flooring replaces lead sheeting and is fairly expensive but there is no inexpensive substitute”.

“My ceiling has lots of noise because the flooring above it has squeaks!”

“Can you make repairs from above?  Usually renailing it will quiet it down”.

“No” You tell him.

“Tear down your ceiling and woodscrew triangular wood strips to the flooring above and to the joists.  It helps if you use a copious amount of “Liquid Nails” adhesive. This will keep the flooring above from moving about and stop the squeaking.   You’ll probably want to add some Soundboard or Homosote in between the rafters before putting your ceiling back in.  They should have taped the tops of the joists before putting down the subfloor!”

“Good Idea!”  You wave the camera about.  “Say, I’m beginning to really like this device!”  You notice as you adjust the “focus” that you can see for quite a distance right into the house next door!

“Well, take a look with it down into the walls of the rooms below, to see how we staggered the studding.  This provides vibration isolation from one wall to the other, prevent sound transfer from room to room”.


“Yes, yes!  I can see it clearly!”

“You can do this with tape to existing wall studding, too!”

“The some of the other things  we could have done to improve on the soundproofing of these walls is to add another layer of drywall to them.  We would have specified more 5/8” “fire code” drywall. This would be  done by placing them on “hangers”: resilient channels or sound clips used as vibration isolators.  They also space the drywall out somewhat from the existing wall so there is an increased air space. We did use this type of “double drywall” on the walls facing the street.  This adds to the soundproofing effectiveness.  What you probably can’t see is that we placed “flooring” (MLV <Mass Loaded Vinyl>)in between the drywall panels and took the time to carefully caulk around the drywall so as to eliminate any spaces sound can enter or come out.

We  staggered our electrical boxes, one sire to the other, placing them at least two feet apart where possible.  We also caulked around them thoroughly”.

“I see you used blown in insulation”.

“Yes, more for convenience.  If we had used “R-14” we would have used the compacted kind for added soundproofing over the regular kind, sometimes referred to as C-703 or C-705.  We could have stapled asphalt roll roofing to the studding but for the odor, but the insulation guys come with a truck and do the walls and attic all at the same time.  Remember, this was new construction.   Even though the soundproofing effectiveness of the roofing material is greater than the insulation and is cheaper, we did it for convenience”.  Mass Loaded Vinyl or lead is superior to all of the above, but is more costly.

You look around the bedroom. “What about those windows?”

“We used double paned glass and vinyl frames.  These are a bit more expensive, but not as expensive as true acoustical windows. Over the life of the house, acoustical windows are well worth it.  We put shutters on the inside and if we have trouble with a noisy neighbor, a party or something and really need to get to sleep, we just stuff a  layer of 2” thick Super Soundproofing Mat in the window.  It’s thick enough to stand in place by friction. If a more permanent installation is needed, we can visit the windows section to see how it’s done”.    In a place where we must have light along with substantial sound reduction, we use a interior  windows custom made to fit inside the frame. Acoustical Drapes/Curtains are an alternative, too.

You say: “Let’s get on with the tour!”

“Bear in mind that these types of improvements increase the value of a home drastically, especially when you’re the one living here!”  He says.

“Flip that switch on the camera and you convert it to an Infared Scanner! Now you can see temperature differences were heat is leaking from cracks and seals.  Such air leaks means sounds can migrate through, because sound is a lot like water, it will find the path of least resistance.”

“Now, shall we go up to the attic and check out the insulation or down to the basement or garage to see how it’s soundproofed for band practice?”

Want a copy of the EPA’s out-of-print popular book on Soundproofing?  “QUIETING: A Practical Guide to Noise Control”.   (Over a hundred 8.5″X11″pages).  Read this and you won’t need a consultant! Info on homes, walls, materials, STC ratings and much more!  Many illustrations. Available for just $15 PP to cover copying costs and postage. You can download it too!

Soundproofing a Generator Or Pump

Soundproofing a Generator! (or other noisy something in a box!)

Soundproofing a Generator

We’ve upgraded the basic generator soundproofing info from the book: “Quieting: a practical guide to noise control“. The new system is shown below. It is based on the fact that air will go around corners well, whereas sound doesn’t like to. This baffling method works well for pool pumps and many other kinds of noise sources.

Enclosure is best made of panels of “Soundboard” or “Homasote” (from the hardwood store), with corner support strips of wood (not shown). screwed, (not just nailed) and glued for strength. Plywood is not recommended because wood transmits sound so readily. “MDF” Medium Density Fiberboard is best. A lined, triple wall box as shown is the most effective, but sometimes a double box may work well enough, depending on the level of sound control needed.

For maximum effect, use the 2″ thick “Super Soundproofing Mat” for lining your box. Make sure the box is entirely covered: no gaps. Cement edges for a tight fit. If in a damp environment, use our contact cement as it has a mildew resistant retardant in it. See the Products Tab (Above),  for ordering and price info.  Cut strips of mat for the airtight seal for the bottom edge.  Leave about an inch between the inner and outer boxes for air circulation.


Here’s how it’s done from the top.

Lead or mass loaded vinyl can be attached over the box for even more sound control. Edges must be sealed! Use lead tape and the non-hardening acoustical caulk available on our shopping cart.

Vibration pads should be used for isolation of the noise source to the floor. Probably not needed if floor is concrete.

Wrapping the pump or motor is an additional way of reducing the sound emitted by it. Leave the ends open if needed for ventilation. Use lead or mass loaded vinyl.  Tie it in place with wire or nylon “Tie wraps”.

If a water pump, isolate the in/out pipes by cutting out a section at the pump and replacing with rubber hose. Automotive radiator hose works well. Don’t allow the inlet/outlet pipes to contact the box and be sure to insulate the openings.

standard small engine mufflerKeep the box as small as practical to reduce “drum” effect and if possible, locate the box to the other side of walls, other natural barriers, etc. If located next to a wall, sound reflection from it to or through the wall can be reduced by covering the wall with thin absorbent foam mat.

Concerned about temperature inside your box? Don’t know if you need fans? Use a meat thermometer inserted through a hole drilled in the box to monitor temperature. Check with the manufacturer to find the temperature tolerance of your noise source.
(Small computer power supply box fans move a lot of air are cheap and can run on 12VDC or 110AC).

Muffler noise:  Best to use a small car muffler as a replacement for your generator muffler. (4 cycle only). Of course, all muffler exhaust must be directed outside the box! Cover the muffler with fiberglass if you want more sound reduction.

How to figure how much mat is needed: determine the total square footage of the box you are lining, (width times length), then divide by four for acoustical mat and/or Mass Loaded Vinyl. (These are the widths of the rolls we cut the material from). This will give you the lineal or “running” feet we sell the material by.

You can call us if you need help! (760) 752-3030 9-5 Pacific time 5 days. Or use the box below!

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floors and ceilings Our walk-in soundproofing store is located at 455 EAST CARMEL ST, SAN MARCOS, CA. 92078 -- Open 8-5 Weekdays. Saturdays 'till Noon! Location Map & Street View. Nearby Airports: San Diego, Palomar (Carlsbad), (Coaster, too!) Oceanside, Fallbrook, Temecula (Rancho California: French Valley). Call for pickup! (888) 942-7723 Se Hable Espanol!