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Archive for the ‘How To Do It’ Category

Sound proofing, Sound Control Solutions by Complaint


Here we present acoustical information gleaned from the EPA’s book, Quieting: A Practical Guide to Noise Control”. ($9.50 PP) More info on this book.

We have slightly updated the noise control solutions to reflect more current thinking and to point to more modern sound proofing materials than were available then when the book was first printed.

We’ve added even more information taken from actual case histories found in Noise Control FAQ’s and our sound proofing discussion group (The “FORUM”)  situations as well.

Complaint Probable Causes Remedies
A. “This room is noisy” Noisy appliances, ventilation system Reduce noise output of source: install vibration mounts; isolate source in sound insulating enclosure. Ventilation noise: reduce blower speed; install acoustic lining and flexible connectors in ducts.
Room is excessively reverberant; if the sound of a person’s handclap persists longer than a second, the room requires acoustic treatment. Install sound absorbing materials, e.g., carpets and pads, drapery, upholstered furniture, acoustical wall padding, ceiling. Total surface area of absorbent material should be at least one-fourth of total room surface area.
Outdoor noise intrusion Install window “plugs”. Install gaskets around existing windows and doors; install storm windows and doors, replace hollow core or paneled entrance doors with solid core doors.
B. “It is difficult to concentrate” If conversation at an ordinary distance of 3-5 ft (1-1.5 m) is difficult, the ambient noise level is too high [greater than 70 dB(A)]. Excessive noise may be due to causes described above. If the remedies outlined above do not alleviate the sound control problem, install barriers and/or a prefabricated, sound-insulated booth or field office enclosure.
C. “It’s stuffy and oppressive in here” If there is adequate ventilation, the room may be acoustically “dead.” There is too much absorption, i.e., excessive drapery, rugs and pads and upholstered furniture. Remove at least 50% of all sound absorbent material such as drapery, thick carpet and padding; or replace existing furnishings with lighter-weight material. Large glass framed pictures may prove effective.
D. “You can hear voices, but they are unintelligible” The sound transmission through a partition or ductwork, and ventilation noise in the mid-frequency range. Caulk or seal all visible cracks at ceiling and floor edges of party wall. Remove cover plates of all electrical outlets in party walls to check for back-to-back installation; in such cases pack cavities with foam mat or jute fiber wadding and seal with a resilient caulk. If additional sound attenuation is required, acoustical modification of the party wall may be necessary (see text).
E. “I hear whistling noise” High-pitched sound usually is generated by ventilators and grilles; worn or defective washers, and valve seals in plumbing, heating and refrigerant systems. High-velocity gas flow through furnace burner jets or nozzles causes similar noises. Set dampers at most quiet setting; place ear at grille, if noise is louder, remove grille. If noise vanishes with grille removed, reduce blower speed or install new grille with larger and more streamlined openings and deflectors. Reduce pressure in plumbing system and isolate pipes and valves from supporting wall and floor structures with resilient sleeves or collars. Replace worn or defective faucet washers or valve seals. Wrap pipes.
F. “I hear my neighbor’s TV and stereo”. Acoustically-weak partition wall due to inadequate construction, noise leakage through cracks at floor and ceiling edges or through back-to-back electrical outlets. Neighbor’s TV set may be too close to party wall. Use same methods as in D above. Suggest that neighbor place resilient pads under and blocking mat behind his TV and stereo sets and relocate them away from the party wall.
G. “Footstep noises from the apartment above annoy me”. Rigid, light-frame construction of floor assembly, solid concrete floor slab covered with tile; lack of carpeting and padding. Suggest that carpet and padding be installed on the floor above. If additional footstep isolation is desired, test both ceiling and the walls in your room with a stethoscope to determine which is radiating most noise. If noise radiation from ceiling is greater, install a gypsum board ceiling mounted on resilient hangers, place foam mat blanket in void between ceilings. In some cases, wall paneling w/foam backing mounted on resilient furring members may be required in addition.


Soundproofing Resources Page, Super Soundproofing Co,

Super Soundproofing LINKS to other Resources.

Here’s a list of links and resources of interest for those of you with noise control and soundproofing issues, not in any order of importance.  This is by no means all the links on this subject on our site, but just the ones we’ve taken the time to catalog and place here for your convenience. The most recent are listed at the top.

See Soundproofing videos at the new SuperSoundproofingTube video site! Get some fame!  Upload your soundproofing, remodel videos!

The right stuff to put in your floor for airborne sound and impact noise!>[GO]

We have now combined all our books and info about soundproofing on our Books page.  Go here for a quick look-see of the material we recommend.  Some are hardcopies, some can be downloaded instantly and some are FREE!

A couple of the most popular books located there is on sound control for buildings:  Building Sound Control Try it!  Another important book is Noise Control Manual For Residential Buildings Both of these books are highly recommended as far more comprehensive than our EPA reprint.

We constantly get questions about where to get someone to do an acoustical evaluation or install material.  Check with your State building contractors license board.  Mostly, people doing this type of thing need to be licensed by the state they are in.  But, if you are willing to educate them and don’t want to do-it-yourself, almost any handyman can do the Don't Dispair!soundproofing type of insulation installation, not-with-standing many states requirements for licensing.  Some of the Builders, Internet usegroups such as and other Do-It-Yourself forums are invaluable sources of information!    To see a cost estimate of the work, check in with get-A-Quote! One of the most asked questions is answered here! How to hire a contractor. Or How To Select Soundproofing Suppliers!

We have a list of contractors in many areas, check for one near your location by calling us.

Discussion community for home remodeling, renovation and repair. Also general discussion on topics such as insurance, buying/selling and more.

Located in the UK? Here’s a site with similar products to ours, but you’ll still need our “Books”!   (and the sample kit may allow you to match up with something similar, obtainable locally!).

Another interesting link for those who want Music Rooms or you have a need to quiet your  piano?   This other site shows how to quiet the keys!

Home repair and upgrading: Best site we’ve seen so far is Jim Evans effort.  Check out the  “Computer and Office Desks” Page – the have additional resources for home improvement, too.  

We get lots of requests for info about noise-canceling, or Active Noise Reduction.  (ANR)  In Desert Storm, the enemy were astounded and dismayed when they couldn’t hear the American tanks drive right up into their camps!  That’s a link to a site on that subject.

Some of our customers have had good results by “Masking” annoying, intolerable noise with white noise generators made by MARPAC or SCAMPMASK.  Hard to see that adding more noise will relieve the noise, but to see if this will work for you, use a FM receiver tuned to between stations to see if this will tend to mask your noise source. A running fan will sometimes work, too.  A better inexpensive solution is headsets/earplugs: (Earmuffs).

Sound, noise,  legal problems?  Need help?  Try the NO-NONSENSE national clearinghouse to reduce noise pollution; They have impressive resources! Another site of interest is: The noise enforcement and code compliance experts, offering a full range of noise-related services. A link to a reading of annoyance and comparative zoning regulations is at BKL Consultants Ltd.

Our own FAQ page covers info gleaned from the old forums on the old (months ago) web site.  The other archived forums can be accessed from the Navigation sidebar. This is still very good info, just like our own current Forum.

For wet blow-in insulation, though it’s been found that it doesn’t have much sound insulation qualities, check the Nu-wool company for a dealer near you.  Don’t bother with common loose cellulose filling, it has even less  in acoustical properties!  (About the same as fiberglass insulation!) Another possibility is “Icynene”.  (They say it has “Noise reduction” but don’t say how much).  Cotton batting does!

Looking for HARD DATA about soundproofing measurements and comparisons of ratings?  Well, we don’t go into it much here on this site because it’s all relative and lab figures can be very misleading!  Materials behave differently depending on their care in installation and the surroundings. Annoyance levels are subjective and so is the materials to control them!  But if you need a noise control primer and want to look at some graphs and charts, here’s the site!

Churches usually have limited budgets, so the sound control in them may be badly handled.  Here’s some links to those specializing in this:

Church Myth: Wires for soundproofing!?

The Church Sound Discussion Group part of The Church Sound Network. Listing of appropriate books on sound systems.

Our own sound control Solutions to everyday noisy sound-proofing problems.


Products List

Soundproofing Myths You Should Know About!


Save time by avoiding these common soundproofing errors!


The video shows swatches of carpet “soundproofing” the room!”

As a service to those doing their own analysis, noise control planning and sound proofing, we’ve prepared this list of Don’t.  We can’t explore every aspect of doing a good soundproofing job, but avoiding certain materials and processes can save you lots of time and money.  Don’t waste time and money on ineffectiveness.  If you have lots of  time and wish to experiment with different techniques and unknown materials, please do so!  (and let us know how it comes out!).  Many people have made the errors mentioned here and some have been kind enough to pass them on to us for inclusion.  Please feel free to contribute!

Get Help!

If you have anything but a simple problem and the solution isn’t obvious, get help!  No need to figure this out all by yourself, it’s too easy to make expensive mistakes.  There ARE many experts doing work in this field.   Most states require them to be licensed. You can find help in the local yellow pages under “Acoustics” or check with your local building code department or state contractors license board.  For a contractor to work under your direction, locate one using the contractor locater service, such as ““,  listed at the bottom of our pages.  At least read everything on this site and better, get the EPA manual we sell here.Unless you have time and money to waste: DON’T experiment!  We’ll help you- call us!  Or we’ll even call you! (See the sidebar).

Read up on other’s experiences: see the sidebar for the “FORUM”.  Maybe your situation has been dealt with there!

Materials Problems

Some materials to avoid are:

  • common “Eggcrate” cardboard egg holders.You have no idea the number of people who tell us their trials and tribulations to find quantities of it, buy it and install it only to find it does little or no soundproofing! This appears to be because it is frequency “holy”.  That is, it has characteristics where sound at certain frequencies passes freely through it!  Some have told us that some sound transmissions seems to be somewhat enhanced!
  • foam rubber of the common sort, such as that of which rubber mattresses are made.  While this has some possibilities, other disadvantages don’t, (such as it’s durability:),  the cost isn’t all that much different than “made for soundproofing” products when so much more of it is needed to be the equivalent of professional materials. Lastly, and maybe most important is that it will burn like crazy!
  • rubber floor mat. One would think a rubber material would be a good soundproofer and perhaps it is if properly used, but simply laying it on the floor will do little against noise coming in (or going out).  Rubber and Neoprene are in the same class here.
  • old mattresses nailed to the walls.  This technique has it’s followers, but unless butted well together with no spaces, caulked edges, and only if you are willing to put up with the possible odor, mold and moisture they have or can accumulate, not to mention unwanted rodent critter type “guests” that may take up residence – are they a possibility.
  • dark paint? Yes, a lady called to check with us if what she was told was true: that painting her hallway with a dark color would perform a soundproofing job.  She had been assured it would.
  • cellulose- the kind that they “pump” into walls.  Some people make a living doing this- how?  While it’s not useless, it’s not very effective.  When you pay big money to have this done, you would want to see some serious results, not have someone say  “Well, I THINK I can tell some difference!” (Spray-on wet cellulose over opened walls may be a different matter).
  • carpet – Old or New.  Doesn’t make much difference, it will all deteriorate and begin to stink.  The newer will take longer, that’s all.  Same problems as with the Mattress as explained above. Carpet WILL increase the acoustic absorbency of a room, but do little in the way of soundproofing.  (Blocking sound coming through).
  • common fiberglass insulation: makes a great thermal insulator, but not a very good acoustical insulator. (Really!) Contrary to the hyped Lab Reports of the drywall manufacturers!
  • plywood panels/ particle board are not good for soundproofing as wood transfers sound very well.
  • hay bales Yes, these make fine soundproofing units, but are rather temporary, subject to fire, critters and vandalism and obviously for outdoor use. Plastic covering can make them more hygienic.
  • Now, our favorite myth- wires in the ceiling!?   Check this out!

Procedure Problems

Sound control is sometimes not easy to understand.  Some things that make logical, perfectly good sense don’t seem to work well in practice.  Laboratory results don’t always prove out in the field.  Field techniques can’t always be duplicated in the lab.  One area of misunderstanding is  wall space inside a wall.  Dead air space works for you, better than filling it up with something like styrofoam, etc.!  If you do, sometimes packing stuff in can make the sound transfer worse! A larger air space is superior to several smaller ones. This means a wall with 6″ studs creating a 6″ air space is superior to a wall with 4″ studs and a extra layer of drywall with 1″ air spacing on each side.

Don’t blindly accept the experiences of others who have done soundproofing before, there may be newer materials and techniques that cost less and provide more newly available.

There are standard ways of dealing with walls, floors and ceiling, but each case is different.  Because of this, different material combinations are required.  Run your plan by us, we’ll point out if it can be improved.  Use the email link below.

Interior Windows for Soundproofing

Glass or Acrylic Interior Windows for MAXIMUM SOUND CONTROL!

Soundproof windows!

If you need REAL sound reduction, interior secondary soundproof windows may be the solution. An 80% sound reduction and more can be had over the performance of the prime window!

These windows are made to fit inside the frame of your existing window, inside the living area, providing a large airspace between the existing window and the new one. This DEAD AIRSPACE increases noise reduction dramatically. Windows can be made to open or not, be flush or not and you can have a selection of frame, glass, tempered, tinted, etc.

If you can install a shower door, you can install one of these windows. The hardest part is taking fairly close measurements! You won’t find these  inside storm windows at Lowes or Home Depot!  [ BUY ]

More About

Noise reduction kits by Super Soundproofing Co™.

Noise Reduction Soundproofing Kits using Super Soundproofing™ Materials!

A variety of sound proofing methods and techniques can utilize our materials for noise reduction and abatement.   Make your own sound proofing kit by ordering the materials for it yourself.   Here are some of the most common uses for noise control as related to us by our customers:

Soundproofing a TV in the apartment overhead: Noise reduction eliminates a potential enemy!

The upstairs tenant was totally unaware of the loud annoyance she created for the folks downstairs by the noise of her TV.   The downstairs folks approached her very diplomatically and offered to install under her TV, without cost to her, our “Super Soundproofing™ Floor Mat” .  She agreed and they ordered five running feet of the floor mat material, P.N. 09-42750 (This is the 1/8″ thick “loaded vinyl” with a 1/4″ foam backing) and at the same time, ordered four small vibration pads

They picked up her TV and laid the mat over the rug, (it could have been placed underneath it), placed the isolation pads under the TV and report the sound heard from it  downstairs  was now reduced to a very low,  acceptable level.  The lady upstairs is more friendly now and the downstairs folks  report they’ve turned  a potential enemy into a friend.

Soundproofing a washer, dryer or refrigerator. The above works just as well for these sometimes noisy appliances!  Use a dab of a adhesive to the pad and the foot of the machine to keep ,it from “walking” out.  If you are wishing for some relief from such noise yourself, a pad of our Super Soundproofing™ Mat attached to the back wall, in addition to the barrier mat placed under it as explained regarding the TV above works wonders to reduce noise produced in the room.   Use at least half inch material, PN 09-42725. (one inch is better). Tip: They make “roll-out” casters for the fridge to make handling easier. (More about this noise reduction method!)

Portable panels: If you plan on moving but still want some immediate relief from sound  annoyances, make some portable panels you can take with you. Buy 4’X8′ wall paneling (also called “Panel-board”.  “Homasote” and ordinary “Soundboard” also works well.) from the hardware store and attach Super Soundproofing™ Mat to the backside with contact cement.   Use at least 1″ thick material. (PN 09-42730).  (Well, OK, 1/2″ may work pretty good, too).  Push the panels up into place on your wall using a long finishing nail here and there to hold them in place.  (Tip: seal the edges of your panels with our acoustical caulk for best results).  A noticeable sound level reduction will be made and you can take your panels with you!

You can leave them behind because they are so inexpensive.  (So is a material called “Wonderboard” Also Duroc,  which is made of concrete!).  Caulking around the edges of your panels as mentioned above is essential.  We have a new portable panel easily removed leaving little evidence they were in use. Call!

Window “Plugs”. The most popular method for getting a good nights sleep.  Use 2″ thick Super Soundproofing™ Mat (PN 09-42760) cut to the size of your window (s) and press fit into place. Flexible, yet firm, it will stay in place. More on this.  If the noise is so loud one panel doesn’t do it, use two.  A FM radio tuned to the hiss between stations will help to mask noise while sleeping, too.  (Also a running fan).

Investigate our Interior Windows for where you must have light and soundproofing too! (Or look into using clear vinyl sheeting as listed on our curtains page).

Masking sound.  Some have reported that the electronic devices made by Marpac mask out sound very well.  (You can use a fan in the summer!).

Noise Reduction for Doors!   How to do it!

Fencing Out Noise. Due to many requests, we’ll now give you some info on doing this:  Masonry walls are best.  Important!: Walls need to be at least 8′ high.  Federal noise reduction regulations normally preempt local height ordinances, so you should be able to go higher.  You can make your own noise panels using 4’X8′ sheets of CDX exterior plywood with our absorbent mat sandwiched between and bolted to the fence.  A layer of barrier material like our “Mass Loaded Curtain” material is then stapled over the assembly. These panels are to go on chain-link, wood or masonry fencing and absorb and block loud noise such as produced by machinery, roads and freeways.  They can be used in the backyard for noise reduction as they are designed for outside use.   Caulking seams is essential. Call us for more info.

Soundproofing a car hood: More on this here.

Need a copy of the EPA’s  popular (but out-of-print), book on Soundproofing? “QUIETING: A Practical Guide to Noise Control”?   (Over a hundred 8.5″X11″pages).  Read this and you won’t need a noise control consultant! Get info on sound walls, materials and STC ratings and much more!  Many illustrations.  We provide it for just $15 PP to cover copying costs and postage. Or you can download it now! Amaze everyone with your new-found expertise!  MORE

FOR MUSIC PRACTICE and Soundproofing Musical 


You should give careful thought to the selection of a place to play your music!

Soundproofing should be done as a last resort. It can be expensive and time consuming.

Commercial locations are best because people go home around 5 PM, just when musicians may start to be creative!

If playing locally, try to anticipate conflicts. Neighbors who may complain, either next door or even way down the street may cause you lots of grief. Before you start playing, go and meet whoever could be a problem and make it clear that you have consideration for them. This advice alone can save you lots of soundproofing dollars! Mentioning that you plan to soundproof if it needs it is a real plus. Give them your phone number to call instead of the police. Once they start complaining, real expensive soundproofing effort may not be enough! A little “PR” will go a long way!

No neighbors nearby or at all would be the best solution of all!  Our Band with Music Room Soundproofing

If you can’t take your practice someplace where the sound will not be a problem for someone, try to choose the best place for your practice room where the level of annoyance will be at a minimum. The basement is best, followed by a room (or building) located as far from a potential complainer as possible. Masonry makes the best soundproofing material, especially for low frequencies, like drums. Garages are difficult because of the large door opening. Our portable sound booth could be placed in a garage or even a room. A mobile sound practice studio may fit your needs.

Windows are your enemy because they pass sound so readily. Hollow core doors are also almost transparent to sound. (Any door that’s unsealed will pass sound easily). Don’t think carpet and egg-crate material will help soundproof anything, they’ll just make the music room “dead”, seemingly soundproof.  Sometimes, adequate sound reduction can be had with a “Double-Drywall” technique where a layer of drywall is applied over the existing wall, (and/or ceiling) with visco-elastic coating,  suspended on resilient metal channels  or sound clips with a layer of thin acoustical absorbent mat in between.  This provides more mass, vibration isolation and absorbency with one technique.

In many cases, the best solution to a very high volume of noise is a “Room-within-a-room” with the inner walls a foot or so from the existing walls. Covering the walls with acoustical mat will certainly help, but it’s hard to predict to what degree. Perhaps a floating drummers pad or even a full floating floor or room will help.  This means some knowledge of sound control and carpentry is needed to do some non-structural construction. Careful attention to certain details (not mentioned on the site), could mean the difference between success and failure of your sound reduction project!  (You’ll get these vital details when you become our customer!)

A typical practice room would have sound barrier material applied to the old walls before building a false wall and ceiling out from that wall a foot or two. The airspace between must be sealed off with caulk and be a complete compartment of itself. (Each wall, ceiling and floor). Another layer of barrier, resilient channel and a layer of  “Homasote” or “Green Glue” and drywall would complete the walls and ceiling.

For a door, use an exterior door, or better, two doors opening opposite ways. More on doors.

Specifics about these methods and materials, including illustrations and detailed instructions on construction can be had from our Internet web pages. Our soundproof booth may be of interest. We have panels that can be simply hung on the existing walls, too.

Expert Village
Jul. 31, 2006. 11:03 PM EST
In this instructional video, you will learn about the best kinds of microphones to use when assembling your own recording studio.
Expert Village
Jul. 31, 2006. 11:03 PM EST
Learn about microphones for a professional recording studio in this how-to video clip on professional recording equipment.
Expert Village
Jul. 31, 2006. 11:03 PM EST
Learn the function of the preamplifier, or preamp, in a professional recording studio in this how-to video clip on professional recording equipment.
Expert Village
Jul. 31, 2006. 11:03 PM EST
Learn what types of recording studio software are available in this how-to video clip on professional recording equipment.
Expert Village
Jul. 31, 2006. 11:03 PM EST
Learn how to soundproof a professional recording studio in this how-to video clip on professional recording equipment.

Mold and how to avoid it

Do Soundproofing While Preventing Mold!


Newspapers and television programs are increasingly reporting on mold problems with newer homes and schools.

In one such instance, the Ballard family of Texas had their home demolished in April of this year due to mold infestation that could not be removed. Their son suffered permanently scarred asthmatic lungs, while the father lost his memory and his job. The mold got so bad they needed hepa filters to enter the house.

Erin Brockovich and her family are also battling mold related illnesses, like respiratory ailments and chronic headaches, to name a few. Tests on the home revealed serious construction flaws and high levels of several molds. Blood test results indicated a severe reaction to two of the molds that showed up in the home. For more information, visit (search Ortiz) under the “Landmark Toxic Mold Legislation Draws Support From Local and National Advocates” article.

There are specific environmental conditions required for mold to propagate. A specific temperature range and source of food are the basic factors that must be in place, but the most important element is the presence of moisture.


Moisture can be present within building walls, ceilings, attics, and crawlspaces via:

  1. gravity
  2. capillary action
  3. air leakage
  4. diffusion

In order to minimize the potential for mold growth, a building envelope system has to meet all of the following criteria:

  • The building envelope must prevent water from penetrating. Therefore, the structure must be properly sealed and contain an effective drainage plane / rain screen.
  • The building envelope must control air leakage. Uncontrolled air leakage leads to condensation and mold growth within the building envelope. A sealed building is more of a soundproof building.
  • The components of the building should resist moisture and once wet should then have the potential to dry quickly (they should be hydrophobic). As supported by test results from leading building product laboratories, Super Soundproofing Absorbent Mat does not wick or absorb water. Moisture cannot pass through SSP mat and once dry, the product returns to its full performance value without deterioration.
  • All sound control components should be able to be installed with relative ease and should not be installation-dependent for their ultimate performance. Good results can be had by the average DIY’er or handyman.

The key to winning the war against mold is to take pre-emptive measures for the future health of your family. It’s not the materials so much as the infiltration of moisture. For more information on how to evaluate your home for susceptibility to mold infestation, check with a mold control expert.

Certain types of air purifiers are effective against established mold.

Super Soundproofing™ Hoodliner

Super Soundproofing™ “HOOD LINER” is Great!

By popular demand, we make it easily available and with vast improvements.

WHY? The biggest problem with a car or truck noise reduction is that sound is coming right up through the hood- then through the windshield. (Because glass is almost transparent to sound!) Car engine noise mixed with road noise blows right through into the passenger compartment. Auto generated sound is mostly low frequency, the hardest sound to block or absorb.

WHAT IT IS: A closed cell expanded vinyl-nitrile foam in the form of a mat, one side smooth for applying an adhesive. You can use a spray-on or contact cement. Very durable. Effective to over 225 F.

PURPOSE: Used as a hood liner- sound barrier/absorber for soundproofing the car engine compartments of cars and trucks, it is also useful for boats, (won’t absorb moisture) and RV’s and their generator compartments.

INSTALLATION: For auto/truck car engine hoods, remove the hood, (mark your bolt mountings) remove/discard all the old insulation. Use the thickest mat possible. Plan to trim it to clear obstructions when the hood closes. Place hood on a worktable with the underside up. Clean the metal thoroughly and carefully cut your mat to fit, then apply the adhesive to both material and hood. Apply and press down well. If mechanical fasteners were used on the original material, reuse them if possible. It won’t hurt to use some sheet metal screws, large area washers or upholstery snaps to help retain the mat over time. Trimming can be done with an electric “Turkey Carving” knife or sharp razor knife. Trim to fit around the air cleaner, etc. Can be used on engine side of the firewall too.

Cut mat into panels and cement into the car body.

SIZE: It is 1″ thick. It comes as a 48″ X 48″ panel and is shipped by post or UPS in a roll.
Car engine hood removed from Dodge Caravan with factory “crap mat” removed and cleaned for installation of  “Super Soundproofing™” 2″ thick closed cell vinyl nitrile mat.

This kind of mat is also useful for reducing “rumble”  transmitted from the trunk to the passenger compartment.

You can use any thickness of “Super Soundproofing™ Mat” and stick it together with contact cement if the above thickness is not right for your project.

Vibration damping pads work by changing the ringing frequency (deadening) of the metal panels to which they are attached.

Professional car restorers use Soundproofing Liquid for application on metal surfaces such as trunk areas where reverberation is a problem in high end sound installations! 2-3 gallons will provide several buildup coats to the entire floor area of a vehicle, greatly reducing road noise!

Get the free booklet: “How to Soundproof Light Aircraft“! Applicable to boats and cars, too.

Car engine hood removed from Dodge Caravan with factory “crap mat” removed and cleaned for installation of  “Super Soundproofing™” 2″ thick closed cell vinyl nitrile mat.

This kind of mat is also useful for reducing “rumble”
Transmitted from the trunk to the passenger compartment.


Construct a Soundproofing Walls using Super Soundproofing™ Resilient Channel and Acoustical Mat

The walls of most of the domestic buildings are constructed of Drywall (Sheetrock/Gypsum Board) that is firmly attached to both sides of a wood or metal stud frame. When sound waves hit one side of the wall it causes the drywall on that side to vibrate. Since there is no structure to block the sound waves, this vibration gets transmitted readily through the studwork to the drywall on the other side and then re-radiated. This results in the entry of annoying noise in to the room, causing troubles to people inside. In order to dampen the sound waves via walls, Super Soundproofing™ is offering you a solution. We suggest you to insert Resilient Channel between drywall and studwork to block the unwanted noise to make your living peaceful and quiet.

More about Resilient Channel

Resilient channel is a thin metal channel that is intelligently designed to substantially improve the sound insulation of drywall, sheetrock, plasterboard walls and ceilings. The channel effectively isolates drywall from the framing studwork, which results in the weakening of sound waves substantially.

Installation of resilient channel to the walls is an easy and effortless process. The channel, which measures about 1/2″ in thickness, provides you dramatic results when compared to similar products available in the market. The acoustic qualities of the channel can be improved by applying thin (1/8″) “ Super Soundproofing™ Absorbent Tape ” to the flange of the drywall mount.

Along with using resilient channel, we suggest you to use the following to enhance the acoustic of your walls.

  • You can add an extra layer of drywall to the other side of the channel.
  • You can opt for adding a layer of “Wonderboard” or “Duroc”, to the existing wall.
  • You can use our Silencer “Mass Loaded” Barrier or Absorbent Mat to the existing wall.
  • You can opt for mounting “Soundboard” (Celotex-sound deadening board) or “Homasote” to the channels before the drywall is attached. Make sure to comprehensively seal the edges of the panel for optimum results.
  • You can prefer using natural cotton fiber as an alternative of fiberglass batting.

The resilient channels, which act as shock absorbers, typically add 3 to 5 (or more) Sound Transmission Class (STC) points to your existing wall or ceiling. However, in order to improve the acoustic qualities, you may need to invest on other construction materials and use some other technique. We suggest you to add an absorbent mat or barrier material to the wall space to provide an absorbent compartment to trap sound waves.

You may need to be utmost careful while selecting acoustically effective resilient channels other than hat channels, Z-channels and other lightweight metal furring systems. Even though these systems resemble resilient channels, they provide no acoustical benefits and are too rigid.

Resilient Channel Installation – Procedures to Follow

Make sure that you install the resilient channel as recommended by the manufacturer to gain maximum results. Read on to familiarize with resilient channel installation in your existing drywall.

At first, you need to remove the drywall or create large openings in the drywall panels to open up the wall and expose the dead air to the new wall covering. Then, apply absorbent mat of appropriate thickens inside the joints and studding. You can now screw the channel all over the strips using drywall screws. In this stage, make certain that the screws only penetrate the corrugated web of the resilient channel and do not come in contact with the resilient channel base support or furring strips. Do not over tight the screws as they may pull through the thin metal channel.

Now, attach the second layer of material (drywall) using appropriate longer screws. Make sure to offset the joints of the first layer and screw only into the first layer of material, not into the resilient channel.

After that, you can coat the new drywall panels with absorbent closed cell matting material to create an absorbent compartment to dampen sound waves. Make sure to apply the absorbent like wallpaper using contact cement and a roller. The thickness of material applied depends on the level of sound control desired. Now, in an open, studded wall, sound barrier material (MLV) is typically stapled to the studs.

Note for edge sealant – It is imperative to apply flexible acoustical caulking compound that is durable to all the edge perimeters after the installation of each layer to achieve optimum results.


soundproofing walls Old Method New Method> super soundproofing walls ceilings

Points to Consider While Installing Resilient Channel for Making Soundproofing Walls

Some of the tips that help to make the installation easy and effective are follows

  • Resilient channel should be mounted at a right angle to the framing while installing on walls and ceilings. While using with walls, make sure to mount the channel with narrow flange along the bottom and the larger flange on the top. Make sure all the flanges are pointing in the same direction, i.e. up for walls.
  • When fastening the drywall to the channels, mounting screws must be driven into the channels in-between the studs or joists. It is absolutely critical not to “short out” the resilient channels by screwing long screws into the studs behind them.
  • While installing resilient channel, it should be held back from intersecting surfaces about ¼” on the side edges, and about 4-6″ from the top and bottom of the wall.
  • The drywall attached to the channels also needs to be held back about ¼” from its intersecting corners. If the drywall panel edges are jammed against wall or ceiling panels, then they will tend to be ineffective.
  • Before installing the channel for soundproofing walls, the edges of the drywall should be covered with neoprene vibration pads and sealed with caulk. It should be then taped and painted comprehensively. This provides a supporting base to mount drywall and install the resilient channel. For this purpose, you can use 2 of the 2″ pads per vertical sheet of drywall.
  • The weight of the drywall will tend to crush the drywall edge down on the pad, making a gap. This gap should be sealed completely using flexible non-hardening caulk, “Backer Square” or Lead tape.
  • Don’t allow the drywall sheets to set directly on the walls. Use vibration pads made of ribbed neoprene and cork to place under drywall sheets for support when used for walls. Caulk well. Stagger joints. Use a metal tape on underlying joints. Caulk again well.
  • When installing the channel over a thicker absorbent mat (like 1″), don’t pull mounting screws down too tightly. This will deform the channel. Don’t break the covering paper of the drywall with the screw.

Remodeling a Typical Wall for Enhancing its Acoustic Qualities

How to remodel a typical wall for achieving soundproofing capabilities? Read on to get the answer.

Tape proof(Note the large flange is up) Dry Wall Furring ChannelDWFC (DryWall Furring Channel)


  • How to remodel a typical wall for average sound reduction – Apply Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV) directly to the existing wall. (Two layers give you optimum results). Stapling will hold it temporarily in place. Now install at least one layer of 5/8″ firecode drywall over it. Tape off and paint your sound deadening wall.
  • How to remodel a typical wall for even more sound reduction – Take drywall off on one side. Make certain that the electrical boxes inside is caulked well. Glue our 1/4″ acoustical mat to the opposite of inside wall.

For achieving average as well as advanced soundproofing of the remodeled wall, you need to staple “Silencer” flooring mat (MLV) to the joints/studs completely. Seams should be sealed with caulk or tape. You can use “Backer Square” to fill the gap and reduce the amount of caulk. You can also opt for additional soundproofing material to enhance the sound control ability of the wall such as adhering additional panels together with “Green Glue” which increases the mass of the wall. The visco-elastic glue also acts as a sound dampener as well. Be sure to cover the entire wall with no gaps left open.


All drywall joints should be finished with traditional jointing methods and plaster covered before painting/decorating the deadening wall in the normal manner. Do not heavily “mud” the gaps. (Tape and Paint). Protruding screws may be lightly tapped with a hammer and carefully tightened some more by hand.

Resilient Channel: Part/Number: “RC-1”

Dimensions: Steel Gauge : .018

Weight : approx. 0.37Kg/m

Length : Cut for UPS shipping: ( 6′)

Availability: Manufactured by “Unimast”. Check with them or your local Builders Supply for availability in 12′ length, otherwise order from us. (We cut to 6′ for UPS shipping:). We also have RC-2 and DWFC.


When installed beneath an existing ceiling with soundproofing absorbent material applied as above, improvements in reducing both airborne noise and impact sound would normally be well in excess of 300%. This means a STC in excess of 50: (Loud shouting can€™t be heard). Fire resistance would be about 1 hour.

TIPS for Walls:

Don’t allow the drywall sheets to set directly on the floor. Use vibration pads made of ribbed neoprene and cork to place under drywall sheets for support when used for walls. Caulk well. Stagger joints. Use metal tape on underlying joints. Caulk well. Don’t screw baseboard onto both the pads and the wall base sill.

Soundproofing Resilient Channel

Approach us at the Earliest with Queries, Concerns and Acoustic Challenges

Along with providing you superior range and cost-effective solutions for soundproofing walls, we also give you valuable insights on several categories of products and their installation technique. (The EPA Manual has more information on this and other techniques).

You can call us anytime or visit our page to see our prices, cost information, availability and free consulting! You can reach us over 760-752-3030.

NEW! Super Soundproofing™ is proud to offer you Sound Control Clips with DWFC that are easier to install than resilient channel. Call us to know more about the new SuperSound Clips and DWFC.

Garage being soundproofed for music practice!

This garage is being remodeled into a practice room for musical instruments!  Let’s take a walk through…

“Hi There!”,  Robby, one of the “Super Soundproofing” company consultants greets you as you enter the garage.

“Soundproofing a garage is one of the most difficult rooms to do because it’s usually partially unfinished, meaning the walls are thin  and the movable garage door is a particular problem because it passes sound so readily”. He says as you walk with him into the garage.

“This can be a blessing, in that we can make major changes to the interior without ripping out walls and so on. We are building a “room-within-a-room” here, with  studding separate  from the existing studding.  Since we need to keep the primary use as a garage, (as required by most building codes), the big door must remain operable.  We will do everything  we can to soundproof this garage because we don’t want any complaints from the neighbors at all.   Even so, knowing we will not be able to make it absolutely soundproof, we’ll limit musical instrument playing to late morning , stopping before evening.  We will also casually contact each of our neighbors and explain we are doing this remodeling to try to  prevent annoying them”.  He tells you.

“Our garage is fairly typical, a two  car unit with bare wall studding and rafters.  Even the walls to the house, (two of them), are unfinished on our side.  Because we want to also be able to watch TV inside the home, we’ll pay extra attention to attenuating sound toward the house as well.   The procedures shown here can be applied to most any room, even a shed”.

“We need to keep expense as low as we can, so we’ll do the work ourselves but because the sound of a band is so loud and overwhelming, using common building materials won’t perform as well as materials designed for sound control, so we’ll use professional materials.   The first place we start is with the walls, carefully caulking any cracks or crevices in them to stop sound and air infiltration.  We use a special soundproofing caulk that will stay flexible forever.  Then we place “Wonderboard” or “Duroc” concrete board between the studs with construction adhesive bonding them to the inside of the drywall sheeting.   A few nails hold them in position, as you can see here. We also caulk them along the edges. They will provide the mass we need to help stop those low bass notes from passing through. The next step with the walls is to rent a staple gun and staple Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV) to the studding.  You could run it horizontally, but we prefer to hang it vertically like wallpaper.  It’s 4′ width allows it to be attached to the studding that’s on 2′ centers nicely.  If it was hung horizontally, there may be gaps between unsupported runs that could let sound slip through and so we want a real tight fit”.

Next we’ll frame out a new set of “false” walls spaced about 6″ away from our roofing covered walls, using 2X4’s.  This space between the walls must be airtight.  Some have asked if the airspace should be filled with fiberglass batting.  While it makes a good thermal insulator, it doesn’t have much sound absorbing qualities.  A better material is absorbent cotton batting.

The doorway to the house we’ve  framed into our wall, leaving the existing door opening toward the house in place and adding a second door that opens inward toward the garage.  The new door is an exterior door with a solid core. (More on this!)  Each door has a covering of “Super Soundproofing Mat” applied to their surfaces with contact cement. We used 1/2″ thickness here.

Let’s go to lunch and  when we get back, the new walls will have been framed out.  I’ll show you how the guys here framed the new walls”.

“Sure”, you reply.  While you’re at lunch, you ask him a nagging question: “Say, Robby, what about that garage door.  Isn’t it going to be a difficult job to soundproof”?

Yes, it is a problem area, but there are a few things one can do to start with.  One, get an insulated door and Two, do not get one with windows!  Also a folding door is harder to deal with than a tilt-up”

“What if there were some windows to deal with?  Explain please”.

When you and he return from lunch, he points out the features of the studding job the workmen have done:  “The men have laid a sill for the false wall on  sections of our “Super Soundproofing Vibration Pads“.  Here, have a look at one.

You take one in your hand and examine it.   “It looks like ribbed neoprene”. you comment.

“Yes, it is a special ribbed neoprene.  They come in 2″ square and about 3/8″ thick.  We used to use a rubber strip, but the rubber, over time, compressed and the vibration isolation was lost.  These pads will not do that”.

“I see they are placed every one and a half to two feet or so”.

“Yes, they can be spaced out a longer distance to support the wall, but we intend to use two layers of drywall, which adds considerable weight. Anyway they are cheap and very effective in providing a isolating base for our “soundwall” of double drywall, actually a layer of Sound Deadening Board covered with sheetrock.  A heavy layer of acoustical caulk is laid down to cement the sill to the floor.  If the gap is too wide, use some “Backer Square” to fill the gap first.

The drywall is 5/8″ “Firecode” gypsum board,  mounted on “Hangers” (sound clips) or “resilient channels” to provide isolation.  A thin layer of “1/8″ Super Soundproofing Mat” is applied in the airspace on one of the  layers of drywall facing the dead air space, providing additional sound absorption.  Twod be better to add natural cotton batting to reduce standing waves between bare studs.  The outer layer of sheetrock is brought within a 1/4″ up to the ceiling and 1/4″ from the floor.  Caulking then seals the gap.   The corners are also sealed in the same fashion. Taping finishes the job, ready for paint, if desired.”

The framing clearly showed the 6″ distance from the inner walls covered with “Sound Deadening board” and extended up to  but not touching the rafters.

“What about the ceiling? You ask.

“We’re installing non-flush fluorescent tube lights to avoid cutting holes and covered the ceiling with resilient channel and sheetrock. We’ve already put “soundboard” sheets on top of the rafters for support and laid several complete layers of more MLV over the soundboard up inside the attic area, tightly butted and sealed together.  This gives us an airspace the depth of the 6″ rafters between the plywood and the  drywall on hangers, same as the walls.  A foot would be better, but we need the space!  If we find there is some sound emission from the attic, we can lay more roofing or perhaps attach it to the attic roof rafters. Depending on the final testing, we may need more “Super Soundproofing” barrier material (MLV) called “Flooring” in there too.”

“I still want to see what you did to the garage door to stop sound from passing through it!”

“Remember, we can’t completely “soundproof” anything.  Everything has some attainable level of noise reduction, depending on time and expense and perhaps practical considerations.  But we can get the noise reduction down to some level of tolerance, using these techniques, depending on the individual whose hearing the noise!

You’ll notice our door is of the insulated variety, meaning that the manufacturer has made some effort to insulate it.  This is for thermal properties, but it’s somewhat effective for reducing sound transmission.   Since it has no windows, we don’t have to deal with that.

What we’ve done is to hang some acoustical blankets on ropes across the entire door.  These are 4’X10″ and about 2″ thick.  We’ve used these for portable sound booths, too. When the door is down, we can pull the curtain over it and cover the door.  Then we unfold these 4″X8″ panels made of 5/8″ exterior plywood on gate hinges, bolted, not screwed.  The two panels on each side cover our 16′ door.  They fold nicely back out of the way in the 4′ space from the door to the wall.  We’ve added some office chair “Ball rollers” to the bottoms to help in extending them out to cover the door”.

“Hmmm”, you muse, “looks like they are covered with soundproofing mat”.

“Yes, we covered each side with “1/2” “Super Soundproofing Mat” attached with contact cement”.

“What about ventilation?  You’ve created a very tightly controlled airspace here.”

“We have a window style air conditioner mounted in the attic with a duct into the room. It’s electrical controls are mounted down here.  The duct is an “S” shape to reduce noise from going out.  It can recycle, exhaust or bring in fresh air as needed.  The duct is coated with “Super Soundproofing Liquid” to reduce reverberation in the duct and covered with more of the mat.”

“I’m concerned that for my trio and my vocalist, we’ll get some unwanted sound reflections from the walls”.

“That’s another subject, but you can probably easily fix that with an application of thin soundproofing mat or even foam sound conditioning panels such as pyramids or wedgies to the walls”.

“After all this, and what if the neighbors still complain?”

“We’ll take our Radio Shack sound-level meter ($35) and make some measurements to try to measure the overall noise level at some fixed places away from the garage while the band is playing.  (A car horn and a 12 volt battery will also work well as a sound source).  If we discover a “leak”, that is a place where the level is noticeably higher than the other areas, we’ll pinpoint it and plug it!”

“Well, seems like once they start complaining there’s not much you can do to satisfy them!”

“Very true, that’s why it’s important to do all you can to prevent that first complaint!  Some movable, insulated panels surrounding  the loudest instruments may be needed to cut down the sound level at that point even more.”

Interested, pointing, you ask: “Is that what those are?”

Yes, to make them, simply take a 4’X8′ sheet of soundboard and cut it into two 4′ sections.  Hinge them together (they will be easier to store that way), and cover them with soundproofing mat.  Laid on their sides, they form a wide “V” on it’s side.  This tends to help block the loudest musical instruments near the source”.

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