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Archive for the ‘How To Do It’ Category

Soundproofing Windows with a “Plug”.

Soundproofing Windows with a “Plug”

Windows are the most common sources of allowing noise into (or out of), a room. Glass panes and wood window frames seem to be almost invisible to sound. An alternative to replacing the window with double pane glass, (a noise reduction of about 20%) or vinyl frames, (noise reduction of about 30-50%), is to make a removable “plug” to block the sound coming through the window. While this will also block light, it won’t matter if the window is a bedroom and the noise is keeping you from sleeping. If light is wanted for day use, make the plug removable. It can then be taken out to allow light to enter the room. Here’s how:

Measure your window frame to see how much depth there is to the sill. This will determine the thickness of the material you can use. The mat is cut from rolls that are 4′ wide and is sold by the running (linear), foot and different thicknesses. So if your window was 4’X4″, you’d need 4 running (Lineal) feet of it. If you window is an odd size, like 4’X4’5″, order to the next largest half foot size: 4’X4’6″

Usually, one thickness of 2″ “Super Soundproofing Mat” will work best, windowplug_small

depending on the measurement you made of the depth.  The mat is relatively stiff, but windows over about 4’X4′ may need a “backing board”. This is simply some lightweight wood or fiber board to attach the mat to. Use contact cement or get the foam with “Sticky Backing” (PSA). Cut a few holes in the back for your fingers to fit while handling the plug or use cabinet handles.

The plug should fit the window opening very tightly without cracks which will permit sound to leak around it. It probably won’t matter which way it is inserted, but if you place the soundproofing side out and the carrier board side in, you could add more soundproofing (MLV) to the room side, if needed. In fact, you can use MLV as the carrier board, which will make the plug a lot more effect, but heavier.  If do use it, make sure it’s cut an inch or two oversize to help block the sound that may come through the edges of the plug and the window frame.

Make sure your window panes and frame are well sealed, no air gaps!

To make the plug easy to handle, if you intend to remove it, attach some cabinet handles to it so you can easily grip it. It will be lightweight enough for a woman to handle if you use thin boards or plywood and the window frame isn’t very large. An added bonus of such a soundproofing plug is the thermal insulation property of the window goes way up, keeping you warmer in winter and cooler in summer! A 1″ layer of our Super Sound Proofing Mat” is about R-5.5 so it wouldn’t take too many layers to equal a very high “R” number. (The R number refers to the heat insulation quality of a material).

If the window is exposed to full sunlight all day, it may be prudent to help limit heat buildup between the glass and the soundproofing mat by first lining the window and mat with aluminum foil as a reflector or tinting the window glass.  The mat can withstand temperatures of over 200*F so don’t worry about it, but what you leave in the airspace  might suffer- (plants, shades, blinds, etc)!  You can get an idea of the heat buildup in the airspace by sliding a oven meat thermometer thru the mat and into the airspace.  While not totally accurate, it will give you an idea of the temp of the heated air in the space.

If large amounts of sound are being passed by a window, either way, (playing the drums?), more drastic measures may be needed. This could entail lining your plug with a MLV both sides to give it more mass.  If a plug as described accomplishes the purpose, it may make sense to leave it in place rather than to make it removable.  In that case it can be sealed by caulking it around the edges, which will help the soundproofing sealing job.  This works well for doors, too.

We have the mat in 1 1/2″ and 2″ thicknesses, which are firm enough to push into place in the smaller window frames without a backing board. A few “T” pins will hold the mat in place, if needed. If you intend to leave it in place, caulk around the edges.

You might also consider a shutter window Shutters SSPCO

or storm window for the outside of the window if it’s practical.  Many times this works quite well.

Alternatives/additions to this is a “Interior Window“, (we now can supply magnetic edging and “L” channel so you can make your own), one that fits over your existing frame and window or “Acoustical Curtains” either vinyl or fabric to hang over the window opening. Remember, optimally, a dead air spacing between glass is needed for a real meaningful reduction of sound in a framed window.

Check with us if you want us to make your window plug or door cover for you.

Sound Control in Walls

Sound Control Walls: Construction Options

Making the Right Choice for soundproofing walls, floors and ceilings

For residential sound control, there are more than a half-dozen ways to increase the noise reduction of interior walls.

  • Acoustical Caulking
  • Sound Control Insulation
  • Double Layers of Drywall
  • Resilient Channels- Soundclips, etc
  • Staggered Stud Construction
  • Double Wall Construction
  • Soundboard, Wonderboard, etc.

Sound control is most efficient when two or more methods are used together. There are many possible combinations of these six techniques. How does one choose which to use?

The table below lists typical STC values for a variety of construction types. It also shows the improvement in noise reduction provided by the different sound control options for soundproofing walls, floors and ceilings, using as a baseline the most basic wall construction of studs and drywall with no caulking. Notice that a wall with an STC value of 50 ( studs, drywall, resilient channels, sound control insulation ) provides four times more sound reduction than the basic wall with an STC value of 30.

Type of Construction STC Value Improvement
Studs/ Drywall/ No Caulking 30 (MAX) 1 (baseline)
All remaining Types include Caulking
Studs- Drywall 35 1.42
Studs- Double Drywall One Side 37 1.63
Studs- Drywall-Sound Control Insulation 39 1.87
Studs- Double Drywall One Side – SC Insulation 41 2.15
Studs- Drywall- Resilient Channels 42 2.3
Studs- Double Drywall One Side -Resilient Channels 45 2.84
Studs- Drywall- Resilient Channels -SC Insulation 50 4.0
Staggered Studs- Drywall- SC Insulation 51 4.3
Studs-Double Drywall 1side-Res Channel-SC Insul. 52 4.6
Staggered Studs-Double Drywall 1Side-SC Insul. 53 4.94
Double Wall- Double Sound Control Insulation 59 7.46

Remember that STC values are based on the number of decibels of transmitted sound reduced by the wall. Just as a 50 dB sound is four times louder than a 30 dB sound, a 50 STC wall is four times quieter than a 30 STC wall.

Using the values shown in this table and factoring in costs and construction time, three sound control combinations stand out as the most logical choices for soundproofing walls, floors and ceilings:
1) Studs, drywall, caulking, sound control insulation;
2) Studs, drywall, caulking, resilient channels or SoundClips, sound control insulation; and
3) Staggered studs, drywall, caulking, sound control insulation.

soundproofing walls This resilient channel is shown in it’s proper position with the large flange up and with sound absorbing tape applied to the facing.





Soundproofing Aircraft Cabin Booklet

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SOUND PROOFING LIGHT AIRCRAFT (and other stuff too!) Printable Version


I first put these ideas down in 1990, in the form of an instruction sheet we handed out with the Super Sound Proofing mat. Over the years we’ve added more to them, mostly by feedback from users of the product and printed thousands of these little booklets.

You are invited to pass back your experiences with this and the other products that have been added to our arsenal in the fight against noise. We’ve now got acoustical foam materials to be used in Boats, Trucks and Cars as well as new materials used in Architectural applications for home movie rooms, sound studios, gyms, industrial as well as for band practice in the garage!

Our first specialty is aircraft applications as it is the most challanging! We are always available for free consulting at anytime for any application, to help you with what we know about methods and materials for soundproofing.

We provide free copies to groups and associations, just let us know how many you need.

© Copyright /1998/ 2014 by Bill Nash – all rights reserved. Reprint rights granted when full credit is given.


Much has been discussed as well as written about the noisiness of aircraft – inside and out. Because of these valid concerns, sound measurements have been made that indicate that sometimes the noise levels are so high in some aircraft that damage to the hearing over the long term can and indeed does, result. Elaborate techniques now exist to drastically reduce such noise. While time and expense are important considerations, installing soundproofing is not a luxury; it is an investment in the physical well-being of the flyers in addition to a valuable upgrade of the aircraft. Information presented here is applicable to all types of planes from “puddle-jumpers” to jets. The addendum to this booklet has info regarding other vehicles as well as business, shop and office.

In a properly soundproofed airplane, the radio can be used with speaker and hand mike, instead of only the headsets. You will even enjoy better direct communications between passengers and will not have to worry about damage to your hearing. Contrary to popular belief, wearing headsets will not protect your hearing much. After being properly soundproofed, using the latest space age materials, the noise level in most aircraft will be so low you’ll probably be able to have conversations in normal tones. You’ll wonder why you ever put up with all the noise before. The quieter aircraft will seem to have gained quality and feel more solid and plusher. Such an improvement should not be considered costly.

Before we tell you how to accomplish this, we will discuss some commonly used materials for sound attenuation. Also, keep in mind that soundproofing involves two (2) concepts that require two different materials:

Sound absorption, and

Sound blocking, or barrier material.

Vibration of the airframe, penetration of sound into the cabin from the engine/prop and airflow over the airframe are three distinct effects and you need to use the proper materials to control them. We have found the ordinary “foam rubber” and fiberglass batting as supplied by the aircraft manufacturers to be virtually worthless.

“Super Soundproofing™” Mat for Sound Absorption:

It is a closed cell vinyl/nitrile insulating material which will not absorb water or oil. Materials that absorb liquids are not suitable because if they get wet, they will promote corrosion and increase their weight. The mat also conserves and blocks heat because it is an insulator. It has fire retardant qualities and we have the manufacturer’s assurance that, in thicknesses over 1/8″, it meets the requirements of FAR 25.853b. Therefore, it is suitable for aircraft use.

It is available in 48″ widths in thicknesses of 1/8, 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 3/4 and 1 inch. It may easily be cemented together to make other thicknesses.

The Noise Mat Barrier:

If one were to make a mat of sound absorbing material rather thicker and use a metal barrier inside it, it would be very effective in really stopping engine noise coming through the firewall. So if ordinary kitchen Reynolds Aluminum Foil is sandwiched between the mats, (use contact cement), most of that noise will be prevented from entering the cabin. A 2″ minimum total thickness is recommended.

Finish Cloths and Vinyls: These are available from your local automotive upholstery wholesaler in a myriad of thicknesses and colors. Most types of automotive materials meet some auto industry inflammability requirements, but perhaps not specifically those as applied to aviation. It is the duty of the installer to make sure that applicable F.A.R.s are complied with.

For aircraft applications, you would be interested in thin vinyl materials such as used for automobile headliners and durable cloths that have a thin foam backing. These can easily be drawn tight and contact cemented to the above described soundproofing mats (or metal backing panels), to produce very attractive, professionally finished surfaces. The use of contact cement in spray cans simplifies application. A heat gun (hair dryer) and some moisture will shrink out most wrinkles.

Other types of soundproofing materials.

A mention should be made here of some popular materials marketed by others. One is a white foam material that is provided in a kit, specially cut for each aircraft it is designed for…. It has contact cement on one side with a peel-off covering and comes with a diagram as to where each piece fits into the aircraft. This is a very expensive proposition because all this prep work has been done for you and you are charged accordingly. A lot of time is wasted trying to find where each piece fits. These kits can run up to $3000 per aircraft (and more) plus installation.

Another one is a lead-backed material developed for the military. It is so expensive and heavy it would not be a contender for installation in light aircraft, even airliners, even though it can sometimes be found surplus. Other materials are either not F.A.A. approved, not closed cell material or are far more costly than our proven Super Sound Proofing Mat! Check carefully before you buy!

Installation Considerations

Each aircraft has its “hot spots”. That’s certain areas where noise is the loudest. A good soundproofing job would concentrate on these places that are the noisiest by placing more material there. However, in general, the places in a light plane that admit sound most readily are the firewall, cowl forward of the windshield/instrument panel, kickpanels, sidewalls of the cabin, roof and wing-roots. But the honor of the most noisy goes to the windows! When replacing windows, use the thickest material you can.

A thorough soundproofing job would place heavier layers of materials where the sound was the loudest, near the front and lighter insulation aft. The entire cabin should receive the treatment, above, below and all around including doors.

In an aircraft that has been flying, the best time to put in this material is when the interior has been removed. Then it can be installed with a minimum of effort. However, an installation can be made piecemeal. That is, section by section, as the budget or time allows, with steadily improving results as more and more of the cabin area is insulated. Some installers might do the doors on a weekend, the firewall on another, etc. In all cases, investigate thoroughly for evidence of corrosion or other damage before applying any batting that might cover it up.

While we cannot provide explicit instructions for each and every aircraft, we can give you some general pointers to insure a good, effective job.

Installation; Soundproofing Mat

Cut your material to precise size and shape beginning with the largest area.

The material comes in different thicknesses to be cut to fit inside and to fill the formers and frames, cabin sides and ceiling. (See diagrams). We do not recommend using razor blades or knives. They will leave ragged edges. Cut it with an electric knife, the kind that is used for carving turkeys. We use a Hamilton Beach battery-powered unit. These are inexpensive home appliance models. The rechargeable feature is handy where an AC plug-in isn’t available, such as out on the aircraft ramp tie down area. Cut material a little over-sized so that it fits inside the former or frame with a push tight fit. It comes with a smooth “skin” side and a rougher side. Either side can be cemented but the smooth side is more suitable. A dab of contact cement here and there will ensure that it stays put, but it should fit well enough so that is quite tight. If the area you are covering is rather large, apply a coating of Super Sound Proofing Liquid and allow to dry first.

Use waterproof contact cement. Do not overdo the cementing because you may want to remove the material someday to look for corrosion, run wires, etc. Use judicious dabs of cement. Use a brush for this. You must put soundproofing every place where the inside of the skin is exposed, especially on the firewall and inside the upper instrument cowling and kick panel sides forward of the windshield. If it’s difficult to cut and fit the material directly because of obstructions, make a little cardboard pattern by which to cut and fit the material.

Take your time. Don’t get into a hurry. Make it fit as neatly as possible. It goes without saying the material is to be installed only on the cabin side of the firewall! If the firewall is covered with some kind of decorative mickey mouse firewall covering, or fiberglass batting, remove it. It may then be reinstalled, but it’s probably better to just leave it off.

Use the bits and pieces left over to insulate the smaller remaining spaces.

Material can be contact cemented together to make larger pieces, so not much need be wasted. Window frames and ‘U’ channels can simply be pushed full of the scraps. Leftovers can also be used in the floor access panels by gluing them on the underside of the covers, then reinstalling the panels and access covers. If you have some left over, it’s worth it to glue it to the inside of the belly access covers too. Every place sound can enter should be covered as much as possible, but installing the material everywhere inside the underside of the floor many times isn’t practical. Don’t worry, even without that, the sound reduction will be very impressive. If your plane is apart for repairs or overhaul, or an experimental under construction, a more complete job can be done.


If your aircraft has ‘snap-in’ metal or fiberglass upholstery panels that are held in frames, we have had great success with the following method which uses 1/2″ or thinner mat material:

Remove all such panels. Or, if you don’t have them, make some.

Cut your mat materials a bit over-sized. Then carefully cement a 1/2″ layer of material to the inside backside of the panel. Leave the edge of the soundproofing around the edge slightly loose so that it can slide over the inside flange of the mounting frame. Here, because these panels are nonstructural, and inspection won’t be necessary, a full even coating of contact cement on both the panel and mat and then assembly will ensure that the material will not come loose, ever.

2. Cut and fit thinner insulation material to the inside skin areas same as the application of the material detailed previously.

The idea here is to create a sound deadened boxed-in area with a dead-air space between the two insulation layers. This is very effective and lighter, but requires more time and effort.

For First Time Construction

Those of you building experimentals will have good results by just using the material on the inside of the cockpit area as explained. However, in addition, if you wish to make removable upholstery panels as mentioned above, here’s how:

Using either very thin aluminum sheet (.015″ is a

good thickness), or very thin fiberglass sheet (some call it “tank Liner”), a bit thicker, cut it to the size of the area you wish to cover. Don’t try to make the area to be covered too large or make the panel with curved edges or with compound curves. The squarer, the better.

Pop rivet aluminum “T” “H” or “C” channel,(obtainable from the Reynolds Aluminum stock rack at your favorite hardware store) to the structure of the area that your panel will be mounted. Cut, fit and trim it so that a fairly loose fit of all four sides of your panel is obtained. The channel you use must have a slot wide enough that will accept the panel and the folded over upholstery material at its edge. It must not fit so tightly that it can’t be snapped in or out of place by bowing it. If needed, an upholstery ‘snap button’ can be judiciously placed to hold it tightly.

Now, evenly glue 1/8″ or 3/16″ soundproofing mat to what is to be the front side of the panel, leaving about an even 1/2″ or 3/4″ or so, open area up to the edges. This will make a cushioned panel when covered with your automotive finish cloth or vinyl. Lay this upholstery finish covering material over your panel, using it as a pattern and cut it 2-3″ oversize. Applying a coating of “Plio-Bond” (or several coats of contact cement) to the metal or plastic then allowing it to dry, will provide a proper base for gluing material to the back edge of your panel. Lay the panel, with soundproof mat down, on the backside of the finish sheet and cement it down to the back of the panel, pulling the wrinkles on the front out gently. Do not glue to the front at all. If you start with the contact cement slightly wet, you can work out the wrinkles very easily. When dry, trim the backside material away evenly and neatly with a razor blade. Leave about 3/4″ holding it. This creates a smooth, cushioned panel that will snap into your aluminum frame very professionally, better than in factory planes! You may use thin 1/8″ foam rubber available from the upholstery shop instead of the soundproof mat. Put the soundproof mat on the back side of the panel as explained earlier or, even better, to both sides of your panel AND the inside structure for additional “Super” soundproofing.

You can simply wrap the mat with your upholstery finish sheeting, just gluing it to the back edge of the smooth backside, then gluing the panel in place. The spray on kind of contact cement is very useful here. You can spray and attach it directly to the smooth side if you wish. A little extra attention to the corners of your finish material will be worthwhile for a neat job. A glue like “GOOP” works very well for this.

Larger Aircraft such as Airliners.

Cabin walls will need to be insulated thoroughly in the manner explained above. Many times soundproofing of these types of aircraft is usually done perfunctorily by workers who have no idea what it’s all about. Without some knowledge and careful attention to detail the consequence is a soundproofing job that is not very effective.

A Special Note About Helicopters

An application of the thickest material available (we can supply it up to 2″ thick and these thicknesses may be contact cemented together for even thicker) installed between the rear cabin and engine/transmission will result in a definite, noticeable noise reduction. Most of the time this is easy to do as these areas are usually quite accessible. It may also be cemented to the inside upper bubble, seat backs and in the underside floor areas for even better results. This may not have a totally silencing effect on the flying noise, but can make conversation possible when on the ground without having to reduce power or use the intercom. The best results will be had by then cementing a layer of Reynolds Aluminum “Noise Barrier’ into the mat as was explained.

The Federal Trade Commission says that there are no existing test methods or standards devised to prove the flammability of any material. Or are there accurate indicators of the performance of cellular plastic materials under actual fire conditions. Almost any material will burn under the “right” conditions. The test procedures of F.A.R. 853.b, U.L. 94 or “Class A” are intended only as measurements of the performance of materials under specific controlled conditions. These tests generally mean the material will burn, but not support a flame, or will not support an flame but will create smoke. You can get a good idea about any material you intend to use by burning a scrap of it with a match. Materials used by aircraft manufacturer’s years ago may not even meet present day “standards.” Generally, if a person is responsible for returning a certified aircraft to service as a shop or mechanic, he should use materials that are FAA approved and follow approved procedures. If it is in the experimental category, you can use whatever you wish. For certified aircraft, a letter is included here in this booklet certifying that it meets requirements of F.A.R 25.853b(3). One may wish to place the letter in the aircraft logbook.

Sound Proofing Ratings. We haven’t provided charts and graphs here because these theoretical ratings are pretty much meaningless in the real world.

However, there are useful methods of judging the effectiveness of a soundproofing material by measuring it’s absorption and transmissibility properties.

Weight, How Far To Go

There is a weight penalty, of course. The Super Soundproofing™ Mat weighs from .10 pound for the 1/8″ to .7 pounds for the 1″ material. (Per sq. ft.) A roll of the popular 1/2″ X 50′ (200 sq. ft.) mat weighs about 50 Lbs. Obviously, if you put it all in your plane, that’s what the weight increase will be, less, of course whatever you pulled out. Generally it takes about 3/4 of a roll of 1/2″ mat to do a good job on an aircraft such as a Cessna 182. (about 30 Lbs).

Such weights are not much of a consideration in a heavy twin, but can mean a lot in an ultralight. Common sense counts here. If a few extra pounds of soundproofing, perhaps even combined with an attractive interior offends your pocketbook or sensibilities, perhaps an additional investment would be made in noise-canceling headsets for everyone! In such a case, your wallet will be the one undergoing a dramatic weight reduction! And you thought acoustical material was expensive! Remember, headsets will not protect your hearing in the long term. In general, even a little material is better than none. Here usually, more is better, is the rule.


The neatness and care that is taken to ensure a good, tight fit and thorough application and covering of the inside skin areas around the cabin will determine the effectiveness of your soundproofing job. There is just so much you can do as a lot of sound is still going to come in the windows. Flat acrylic sheets can be bought from a plastics wholesaler and cut to fit much cheaper than buying pre-cut windows. Those of you that are building experimentals, overhauling or rebuilding aircraft, should consider additional methods of sound reduction i.e. replacing plexiglass windows and windshields with the thickest possible material available (up to 3/8″). Our tests have shown that there is no advantage to using any thicker material. Plexiglas edges of thicker plastic window material can be trimmed down with a router to still fit in the original thinner frames and is well worth the extra trouble.

Also, a fiberglass firewall batting cover fitted on the engine side will also help quiet single engine aircraft. This can be fabricated by your upholstery shop out of heat resistant materials. Cutouts for wiring and other necessary openings through the firewall can be closed by velcro fastenings and is well worth the additional cost and effort.

Loose fitting fairings causing gaps between the wing and fuselage in high wing aircraft can generate lots of wind noise. This must be stopped. An easy way to do this is by using a caulking gun filled with white weatherproof silicone caulk. (Use clear if your paint in that area is not white!) For best results, apply it wet while the fuselage/wing joining cover is off. Clean up with water. First tucking soundproofing mat firmly between the wing/root and the fuselage will really help. This is usually not a problem in low wing planes, but should be investigated.

A noisy door because of a gap in its frame can mean the seal needs replacement or if the door cannot be made to fit properly, (try some very careful bending!), perhaps even a inflatable door seal. There are dealers for inflatable door seal kits for many types of aircraft and such kits can be adapted to most others.

Super Sound Proofing Liquid!

This is a lightweight insulating material designed to add mass to metal surfaces thereby reducing reverberant sound. Several coats can be built up to suit sound proofing need. It also acts as a sound absorption/barrier where mat cannot be applied. Use it in tailcones, under flooring panels, on firewalls and in corners mat cannot go. Brush on, available in half-pints, pints, quarts and gallons.

Super Sound Proofing Flooring!

By popular demand, we are now making our flooring mat available. We’ve combined a tough, wear resistant vinyl surface with a layer of closed cell foam to cushion and isolate noise and vibration. It is designed for floorboards and firewalls in vehicles, including aircraft. Thickness is about 1/4″ and quite lightweight. It comes in 54″ widths by the running foot.

In any event, we’re here to help you with any questions.

Addendum to “Soundproofing the Light Aircraft” For Boats, RVs and Cars

The principles and applications described in the foregoing for aircraft are completely applicable to other vehicles and even homes and offices. Absorption and blocking of noise are the principles of most importance. How this is accomplished is a measure of the effectiveness of the soundproofing job. First, we will discuss some specifics of soundproofing certain kinds of vehicles and the specialties of noise reduction in the business, shop, home or office.

More information is on the website Under “Vehicles”.

Other: Businesses, Shop, Home or Office

Businesses can really benefit by reducing noise pollution. Not only will workers, who spend long hours in the same place every day, but customers (maybe more importantly!) will really appreciate a quieter environment. Generally, annoying noise in these areas is caused by machines or people.

In an office or business, hard reflective surfaces tend to severely accentuate noise. This is one reason why rugs make a room quieter. Here, soundproofing mat can be placed in strips of one or two feet high and run along the top of walls and even attached to ceilings for impressive noise reduction. These sound absorption runners do a very effective job, the more the better!! In noisy areas such as a shop, hanging barriers are made by attaching soundproofing mat to plywood squares (both sides!), and suspending them between the offensive noise producing machine and the receiver of the noise. This works wonders. These barriers may be either permanent or temporary. If temporary, they may be moved out of the way with some sort of wheels, hinge, cable or hook arrangement. Temporary ones on casters are useful or suppressing grinding machines or other loud noises that occur at different places around the shop. (Or, for band practice in the garage!)

Hanging squares are also effective in high noise areas such as machinery rooms, pizza parlors, game rooms, halls, etc. They need not be long or large enough to be very noticeable. Hang them from the ceiling in rows (at least one foot tall), and notice how the quiet develops! We have acoustical foam wedges, pyramids and for max sound control, anechoic wedges in blocks and squares.

Contact us direct for help in other noise control situations, such as architectural acoustics. We provide free consultation!


P.O. Box 985

Vista, CA 92085

Tel: (760) 752-3030

Fax: (760) 752-3040


To The Pilot, Mechanic or Installer!!

Most of the materials mentioned are available

from a variety of sources, your common

hardware store has some of the items. The


is only available from us and:


225 Airport Circle 91720

P.O. Box 4000 91718

Corona, CA. U.S.A.

1-800-824-1930 or (951) 372 9555

As mill distributors of this material,  please order from the above, they stock most sizes.

Questions? Certs? We are happy to offer recommendations, advice, assistance and free samples, or a hard copy of this booklet. Just call or write us.

Logbook FAA Certification letter:+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++


P.O. BOX 985

Vista, CA 92084

(760) 752-3030

September 3, 2005


To Whom it may Concern:

This letter provides information regarding Super Soundproofing™ Material for which we are the mill distributors. This letter is to certify the material has FAA approval.

Our Super Soundproofing™ Material, is a vinyl-nitrile closed cell expanded foam. It has been tested by an FAA approved laboratory that has determined the material, in thicknesses over 1/8th inch meets, or exceeds, the flammability test criteria that is contained in FAR 25.853(b). Results are available on request.

This material, in all thicknesses, meets various portions of U.L. Lab criteria regarding different qualities and parts of D.O.T. “Proposed Guidelines for Flammability and Smoke Emission Specifications.”

In addition, the material meets MIL Spec. MIL-P-15280-H Form S. regardless of its thickness.

I herewith certify the above is true and correct.

General Manager

– – – – – – –

To The Pilot, Mechanic or Installer!!

Most of the soundproofing materials mentioned are also available from

AIRCRAFT SPRUCE & SPECIALTY, 225 Airport Circle, P.O. Box  4000, Corona, CA. 91720 (877) 477 7823 or (951) 372 9555  

Soundproofing Plugs for Windows

Making SUPER Soundproofing™ Plugs for Windows.

Obviously, you deserve relief from outside noises!  Whether it is sleeping or just enjoying quiet, windows are one of the most common entries of noise into or out of a room.  Glass and wood framed windows seem to be almost invisible to sound.

An  alternative to replacing the existing window with a double or triple pane glass acoustical window,  (a noise reduction of about 30%-70%), or to add another interior window, (90%) is to make a removable soundproofing “plug” to fill the frame and to block the sound coming through the window. (Also 90%)  While this will also block light, it won’t matter if the window is a bedroom and  noise is keeping you from using your room or sleeping.  If light is wanted for day use, make the plug removable. It can then be removed to allow light to enter the room.

Making the “Plug”.

Measure your window frame to see how much depth there is to the sill. This will determine the thickness of the (Super Soundproofing™ Mat), you can use.  If your frame depth is 4″ a thickness of 2″ is recommended.  The dead air space will work for you.  Leave a dead air space if possible, the foam should not be pressed against the window.  The soundproofing mat is cut from rolls that are 4′ wide and is sold by the running (linear), foot. So if your window was 4’X4″, you’d need 4 running feet of it. If you window is an odd size, like 4’X4’5″, order the next largest foot size: 4’X5″  If an odd size ( Like 6.25’X5.75″)  you’ll need to piece it together.

Usually, one thickness of 2″ “Super Soundproofing™ Mat” will do.  This thicker mat is relatively stiff, but windows over about 4’X4′ may need a “backing board”.  This is simply some lightweight wood or fiber board to attach (glue) the mat to.  (Luaan, very lightweight and cheap, is one type to ask for at the hardware store).  For an even better soundproofing effect, use “Homasote” or other fibrous board.  “MDF” (Medium Density Fiberboard), is also recommended but is quite heavy.  Don’t use particle board or plywood.  Use contact cement to cement the mat onto the backing board.  (We have some with a peel off backing). Cut a few holes in the back for your fingers to fit while handling the plug, if planning to remove it on a regular basis. The backing board should be large enough to go over and cover the inside frame molding right over and to it’s edges.

The plug should fit the window opening very securely without gaps which could allow  sound to enter. It probably doesn’t matter much  which way it is inserted, but if you place the soundproofing on one side of the board, you could add another layer of soundproofing mat to the room side of the backing board for even more sound reduction, if needed later.  Make sure the mat is cut an inch or so oversize to make it fit tightly into the frame to help block the sound that may come through the edges of the plug right at the window frame.

Soundproofing Plugs for Windows

An added bonus of such a soundproofing plug is the thermal insulation property of the window goes way up, keeping you warmer in winter and cooler in summer! A 1″ layer of our Super Sound Proofing Mat” alone is about R-5.5 so it wouldn’t take too many layers to equal a very high “R” number. (The R number refers to the insulation quality of a material).

If the window is exposed to full sunlight all day, it may be prudent to help limit heat buildup between the glass and the soundproofing mat by first lining the window with aluminum foil as a reflector.  The mat can withstand temperatures of over 200*F so don’t worry about it!

If a plug as described accomplishes the purpose, or if the window is very large, it may make  sense to leave part or all of it in place rather than to make it removable. In that case it can be sealed by caulking it around the edges, which will help the soundproofing effect. Add a string to the caulked in seam to facilitate later removal as in an emergency.  More layers of mat can be added to the backing board on the room side if needed.

If large amounts of sound are being passed by a window, either way, (in or out),  more drastic measures may be needed. This could entail lining your window with a limpid material to give it more mass, such as our “mass loaded vinyl” (mlv)  we call “flooring”.

We  have the mat in up to 2″ thicknesses  and it is plenty firm enough to  push into place inside the window frame if the window is not over about 4’X4″ in size  and you cut it a bit oversize of the opening.   A dab of cement like household “Goop” or even “Duct” tape will hold the mat in place if needed.  Caulking the edges is better.  The mat is made of a vinyl material which may, if brand new,  have a “shower curtain” odor when first opened.  This is harmless and will quickly go away.

Remember, somewhat of a dead air spacing between glass and the plug is needed for best reduction of sound in a  framed window  so don’t push it in all the way up against the glass.

Sometimes a heavy curtain or drape will help to additionally reduce loud sound to a more tolerable level.

You might also consider adding a shutter (Noise Barrier), to the outside of the window if it’s practical.   3/8″ clear acrylic plastic,  will even work, but must fit well!  (Use caulk!).

If you need light, use our clear plastic curtain material or better the MagnaSeal system.

If you decide you’d like to get a interior window, you have some choices.  On the West coast go to  here!    Or do it yourself:  “Poor Man’s Interior Window”

Go to Robbys   Apartment or  the  Basement Foam Mat.

Please support us if you like the services we provide!

MORE ABOUT SOUNDPROOFING DOORS – About Door Sweep Soundproofing

Buy Now

How to soundproof your door with a simple acoustical soundproofing  door sweep.        (Click Here for Printer Version!)

This is All About Controlling Sound and Reducing Noise coming through Doors.

We sell hundreds of these door bottom gap sealers to hotels, motels, bed and breakfasts and apartment buildings  for cheap door soundproofing – take a tip from them!

After dealing with the exterior sound coming thru  windows,  sound control efforts in a room should focus on the door: a typical interior  hollow core door will pass sound quite readily.  (An STC of much less than 20- this means conversation can easily be heard thru it).

The door should entirely be replaced with a solid, exterior door, the thickest you can find.  “MDF” (Medium Density Fiberboard) doors are cheap and have good sound blocking qualities and available from Builders Supply like Home Depot.

Get a door without the recessed decorative panels- they reduce the thickness of the door.  If it’s important to have them,  buy some that you can attach onto the door.  Make sure the door is well fitted to the frame, no gaps or crevices for sound to migrate through. If there are  gaps, use our closed cell PVC tape,  (not from the hardware store).

The door should be sealed off as if it was 40 degrees below zero on one side.  If it has a gap over 1/4″ at the bottom, use our door sweep seal, (a metal strip with a rubber flap) mounted to it, available from us.  (As shown here).  Set it to just brush the floor.     If your door is a standard 36″ wide, you can get it and a roll of sealing tape for $36 Free Shipping!

Door Sweep Soundproofing

A seal is essential to properly soundproof a door. Our soundproofing seal is a rubber loop, carefully cut to your door width size, modified by us with sealed ends for added performance in creating a dead air space within the loop. We’ll cut this to an exact fit for  your door if you’ll give us the measurement of the width of the door.

You will also receive the screws to mount it to your door.  Depending on if it’s metal, you’ll need to drill pilot holes, if wood you won’t.  Usually, only a screwdriver and a few minutes is needed to install this very much needed attachment to block sound from coming from underneath your door.

Some notes about our “Soundproof Door Sweep”: (The part that should seal the door bottom against sound and that fits on the edge of the bottom of the door). Since our doorsweep only seals up to a 3/4′ gap, a transom seal should be used from the hardware store that fits on the floor across the bottom of the doorway.  Use this kind if you have a huge gap. Try to get one with a rubber flap. (Mechanical ones are expensive and will eventually fail).

Note, the illustration above would tend to make some believe the seal fits somewhat under the bottom of the door- not so- it just hangs down and does not slide under the door!

Door Extender Strip


Remember- it won’t close the bottom door gap over 3/4″,   if more, use  the above mentioned threshold to take up some of the gap or build down the bottom of the door with a wood strip.


Sometimes it may take both!


This wood strip was mounted with glue and screws using drilled pilot holes to avoid splitting the wood.  It was then painted to match the door finish. The doorsweep may also be painted.


The seal should lightly brush the floor, but a 1/4″ gap is acceptable when you are done.


Your new door may still need sound insulation. Use 1/8″ MLV with 1/4″ closed  cell   foam,   bonded to it or 1/4″ MLV.. Then cover with “Super Soundproofing acoustical mat”.    Usually 1″ thick will suffice. Cut it a bit oversize to cover the seam of the door at the  frame to help seal it.  You can use the mat with the adhesive backing but you may not be able to remove it later.

A typical door 3′ X 8′ is 36 sq. ft. so 8′ of the 4′  wide MLV will cover it. 9′ of the 4’X1″ foam will be needed. If there’s a lot of sound still coming through, consider hanging a “Mass Loaded Curtain” (barrier) or a acoustical curtain over the door and frame.

Door Frame

Soundproofing Doors

You could use gaskets that are ordinary thermal sealing gasketing foam strips from the hardware store, but far better results can be had if you use our “Super Soundproofing 1/8” Thick Self-Adhesive Tape” , because it is a closed cell material, will seal better and is much more durable. It is a gray tape in widths of 1/4″, 3/8″ & 1/2″ for door sealing.  Apply strips on top of each other to build up and close wide gaps.

Think you can’t replace the door with your door, Landlord problem? You can always put his door aside and rehang it when you leave. Better, create an “Airlock door system” by leaving his door in place and adding another door to the frame, opening the opposite way. (Solid core, of course!)

TIP: Remove the molding from around (use care to not split it!), the door and check the gap between the frame of the door and the rough framing.  Usually you’ll find there is nothing there!  Many times this empty space of the door frame has no insulation at all,  just covered by two pieces of wood molding. Pack the area with our Super Soundproofing Mat (you can order just a few feet, we have no minimums), or use our caulk, and cover the gap with our lead tape, then replace the molding. This tip applies to windows too! (Do not use expandable foam as for thermal insulation. It will be worse than the airgap, establishing a soundpath).

Sliding doors have little or no acoustical qualities at all and are best replaced with one that has, or if not possible, covered with a hanging sound barrier such as curtains, etc. If it’s a glass patio door, you could cover part of it with soundproofing mat and make a holding panel with mat attached to it to cover the door that moves when it’s shut.

Another option is to add another patio door with a new frame. This double door will block a lot of sound by trapping air between the door panels. Commercially available soundproofing sliding glass doors can be had here.  But you can do-it-yourself!

French double doors need a “T” strip and special techniques to reduce sound transfer.  Best to call us to discuss.

Open doorways? Curtains hung across open doorframes usually don’t perform well acoustically, but do some sound blocking if they are heavy and fitted well to the frame. If made of clear plastic and cut into strips for egress, the strips need to be overlapped about 50%. When using clear plastic, use the heaviest you can, we have it in up to .160 thicknesses. Acoustical curtains perform about the same. If possible, consider hanging curtains on BOTH sides of the doorway for greatly improved sound reduction. This is because the dead air trapped there works for you. Such curtain installations should touch the floor. Use double-sided tape to attach the curtains to the wall at the edges to help seal the curtain.

Garage doors are another problem, especially bad if they are segmented doors. (Panels that are hinged). Such doors may prove difficult to deal with because of the gaps created by the hinging. However, our “Super Soundproofing Mat” glued to the inside may flex enough to work O.K. Use as thick of material as you can. It will also help to use a barrier like “Super Soundproofing Flooring” (MLV) to cover the entire door area including the walls to outside. (More on this on the web page about soundproofing a garage).

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Super SoundProofing™ WebSite What’s NEW!



  • See Soundproofing videos at the new SuperSoundproofingTube video site! Get some fame! Upload your soundproofing remodel videos!
  • Green Glue comes to the Super Soundproofing Co™! We were the First!
  • Now available from us: Natural Cotton Fibers for sound control within walls and ceilings. A simple sound insulator with both thermal and soundproofing qualities!,
  • A really economical Sound Control Booth you can make yourself!
  • We’ve added info on the “Poor Man’s Sound Isolation Window” to the site. Here’s a way to get some reasonable sound control through your window without spending a fortune!
  • A new kind of Furring Track!  Yes, Truly new way of adding many STC points to your wall.  See our Insul-Trax kit.
  • A material to place under hardwood floors and tile to reduce impact noise! Now in stock! Call and ask about our “Super-Sound-Seal”.  Also a new way for gym floors to reduce impact noise.      760 752 3030
  • We’ve added a new kind of “Sound Clip” replacing the old expensive kinds. See “Your Options” and comparisons!
  • We now have “Hangers” for your speaker cabinets! Float them from the ceiling on a chain to perfectly isolate them from the walls and floor!
  • New! A brand new product! “Double-sided Foam” We apply our adhesive to both sides of our closed cell 1/8″ PVC foam, then cover it with protective film. The first peel off backing is pulled from the foam and it’s then easy to stick it to walls, ceiling, etc. The other backing is then removed so you can paste on more thicker foam, MLV, wallboard, ceiling tiles, even wallpaper! Use it to sandwich together two panels of drywall! (Sheetrock). Use this anywhere liquid gluing is unsatisfactory because of difficult access, the odor, mess, etc. Use it for blocking sound. Quickly dampen sound vibrations on joists inside ceilings and on studs. Available in 2′ and 4.5′ (Yes, that’s feet!) widths in 50′ and 100′ rolls. (Inquire!)
  • Tips for builders.
  • We’ve  a scanning service , to scan our site for hacker vulnerability. They scan every day to be sure your private info is not at risk while surfing our site..
  • Just Added! Closed cell padding tape for studding, joists, etc. This 1/8″ closed cell foam tape is self adhesive and applies easily. Use it to increase sound attenuation in walls, floors, ceilings by padding ceiling, wall and floor panels. Use it on resilient channel and furring track! Stops floor squeaks! The simplest, cheapest soundproofing technique available. Even if you don’t do anything else, this will increase sound loss as much as 10 db or more right in the speech range.
  • We now have a good, economical Spray Adhesive. for attaching foam to walls, ceiling, etc. One coat allows removal. two coats makes it permanent.
  • Added: Cotton Batting:  Thermal Insulation with great acoustical properties.
  • Acoustical “Lead” is getting harder to get. We still have it in tape and sheet!
  • Major price increases in the mass loaded vinyl and lead sheeting (Hit the “Prices” bar at the left) But thanks to our customers loyalty and due to re-negotiation of our contracts, we’ve become a high volume supplier of these materials and are holding the line for you!
  • Used acoustical curtains are in stock but we are getting very low. Get yours now before we run out!
  • We  link with Granahan, a real good consultant and contractor for San Diego / Southern California. Want to see a soundproofing job? See his installation pix. We have a list of other contractors of some in other areas, check for one in your area by calling us.
  • Resilient Sound Isolation Sound Clip! Doubles the sound resistance of a typical wall. These little rubber and metal fixtures are easy to use and are twice as effective as just metal strips (resilient channel). Screws to the stud with 2 fasteners!
  • Adding noise to reduce noise? Masking sound. Some have reported that the electronic devices made by Marpacmask out sound very well. (So do fans, water fountains and fish tanks).
  • Sound-proofing Doors! How to do it! For real!
  • Our message center: (The Forum– left sidebar) Very popular! Ask your questions of the experts and let everyone have at ’em! Or search the database for answers.
  • A portable sound control room has been added to our list of products. Available now!.
  • A acoustical foam sample kit of materials is now available. $10 gets you one sound control kit and a coupon good for $10 off your next order! And you can now download the EPA sound control book in Adobe format,  still preserving the illustrations.
  • Due to popular demand, we now have available VINYL SEE-THRU/WALK-THRU Doorway kits. This vinyl material is also useful for windows!
  • We’ve added Complete Products shopping cart so you can see at a glance everything we have to offer. If you don’t see it, ask! We probably have it but haven’t revealed it to our copycat competitors yet.
  • We’ve added information on INTERIOR WINDOWS to the site! Yes, now you can reduce sound coming through your existing window by up to 80% over your present window installation with or without any modification to it or the frame.  “Snap-ins” are now available from a us, or do-it -yourself!
  • Now a new page dedicated to actual sound proofing SOLUTIONS to specific noise problems.
  • You need a copy of the EPA’s out-of-print book on Sound proofing. “Quieting in the Home”. (Over a hundred pages). Read this and you won’t need a consultant!  More info about this book and others, too! You can download it too!
  • Check out the new “Sitemap” and take a walking tour of our soundproofed house! Musician? Some new features , the newest is about thoroughly sound proofing a garage!
  • If you like what we’re doing, please help us stay in business by buying sound proofing materials from us. Imitators selling inferior materials are really cutting into our business. Their unhappy customers then call us for help! Check them out first with the Better Business Bureau! There may be a reason they are not a member and don’t take credit cards! We won’t just tell you what you want to hear just to make a sale, but they will!     How to Select a Soundproofing Supplier!
  • We’re been a real company since 1988, not a “Dot-Com”. We manufacture and stock all of these materials and know how to use them. We’re not a “drop shipper” like many of our competitors working out of their garage, bedroom, etc.. We quote prices right on this web site and you can order and get delivery right now! (Most items shipped same day!)

Soundproofing Materials for Soundproofing a house

Soundproofing a house, different areas of your home require different treatments to attenuate noise. Some noise is annoying when it comes in, such as through the windows or attic.  Other noise may be annoying to others both inside and out of the home. (Playing musical instruments, neighbors, street noise, etc).  For these   reasons, differing noise control treatments of the house are needed, using a variety of sound control materials and special acoustical construction techniques.  While it is far better to make the investment in soundproofing (architectural acoustical noise control), when the home is being built, rather than doing a soundproofing retrofit, it’s not impossible, just a bit more difficult.

  • Noise control through Doors

The investment in soundproofing should be considered in the long term, over the period of years where continuous relief from noise will pay off in less stress and in getting a good nights sleep.  The costs of acoustical investment and upgrade made in this situation can be fully amortized and  thus means only  a few dollars a year. These initial costs can usually be fully recouped when the house is eventually sold and will make it much easier to sell!

The long term enjoyment of quiet may be more difficult to measure.

Get more important information here!



Soundproofing and noise control in the office


Your office should be a place where you can work and conduct your business in peace and quiet without noise transfer in or out!  Your ability to accomplish needed tasks can be severely compromised by the distraction of annoying noise.

Such disturbing, distracting, annoying outside noise is generally caused by neighborhood noise and traffic, usually coming through the windows and/or through the doors or walls.

Sometime office noise can come from within, from others in the house/building, or inside the office when people are talking and on the phones.

Sound control can take several forms, depending on the source of the annoyance.  The solutions are usually fairly easy to accomplish once the  noise sources are found and prioritized.

Privacy in the office should start with the door: a typical interior style hollow core door will pass sound quite readily.  It’s best not to bother to soundproof such a door by applying soundproofing material to it as you will not be very successful.  It should be replaced with a solid, exterior door  the thickest you can find. Try to find “MDF” doors.  (Medium Density Fiberboard).    Make sure it’s well fitted to the frame, no gaps or crevices for sound to migrate through. It should be sealed as if it was 40 degrees below zero on one side.  If it has a gap at the bottom, use a transom seal, (a metal strip with a rubber flap mounted to it).  The new door may need insulation anyway.  Use “Super Soundproofing acoustical mat”.  Usually 1″ thick will suffice.  Cut it oversize to cover the seam of the door at the frame to help seal it.  If there’s a lot of sound still coming through, consider hanging a “Mass Loaded Curtain” (barrier) over the door and frame. How to fit a door for best soundproofing.

If you can’t replace the door, (Landlord problem? Listen, you can always keep his door someplace and rehang it when you leave),  better, you can add another door to the existing frame, opening the opposite way.  (Solid core, of course!)

Next, windows seem to be almost transparent to sound.  Sound control sound barrier solutions come with options.  Replacement of the window with a double, triple or more paned glass unit may be the answer. (50 to 90% sound reduction).  If you decide to leave in the existing window, you may be able to add an interior window to the inside frame.  (50 to 90% noise control reduction). If you must keep your window and don’t want the expense of the foregoing and if you must have light, a clear plastic may reduce the noise level adequately, so if need be,  cover the window inside and out, (both sides). (20-50%)  If light isn’t important, plugging the window with our soundproofing mat may be the answer. Other window noise reduction alternatives:  Shutters.  Window barriers.  And fences, (Another subject!)

Noise within the office:  Many think cubicles give a measure of privacy.  Not so.  They give an illusion of privacy.  They generally are not high enough nor thick enough to prevent conversation from being overheard.  Naturally, when an animated, loud conversation is going on, it can disturb the others in the office.  Office walls have the same problems as they can pass sound more easily than many think.  If there are “dropped” suspended ceilings, check to make sure at the least the walls go all the way up above and do not end at the ceiling. Such ceilings have virtually no sound reduction capability at all and those short walls make it worse.

If there are no partitions and it’s a common area room, noise can build up, causing people to raise their voices thus compounding the problem.  This can be reduced by adding absorbent mat to the wall corners/ceiling joints thereby reducing sound reflection by absorption.  Pyramids or Wedges are some types of open cell foams in common use and are available in decorator colors.

Individuals might consider using headsets to allow concentration on their work in the office.

Simply adding mass loaded barrier (MLV) to the walls will help reduce sound transfer drastically.  It can be covered with wall paneling for esthetics.

Generally, sound masking does not work well unless the sound being masked is very low.  (Adding noise helps?).

Privacy can be very  important, both for those in the office and those outside.

Another resource about soundproofing a office.

Natural Cotton Fiber Batting

Natural Cotton Fiber insulation is the newest in sound control!

Not Fiberglas- No Itch

Get the best in both sound control and insulation! And GREEN, too!

NEW: R-30 material in the new bags! SAVE! We are the only stocking dealer in the San Diego North County area for these materials! Don’t deal with “Drop Shippers” who can cause you long delays and gouge you on shipping fees!

Natural Cotton Fiber insulation is the successful combination of 25 years of insulation experience and a revolutionary patented manufacturing process that has created a new, superior and safe product.

This easy to install Natural Cotton Fiber is made from high quality natural fibers. These fibers contain inherent qualities that provide for extremely effective sound absorption and maximum thermal performance. It DOES NOT ITCH and is very easy to handle and work with.

Easy to install Cotton FiberIt contains no chemical irritants and requires no warning labels compared to other traditional products. There are no VOC concerns when using Natural Cotton Fiber, as it is safe for you and the environment.

It is also a Class-A Building Product and meets the highest ASTM testing standards for fire and smoke ratings, fungi resistance and corrosiveness.

It contains 85% post-industrial recycled natural fibers making it an ideal choice for anyone looking to use a high quality sustainable building material.

By installing our Natural Cotton Fiber, you are making both your building and the environment a safer place to live, work, and enjoy. “A “Green” building material”! We can also supply the special cutting tool and sharpener for high production installation jobs.


Safe Rooms Explained

Safe Rooms- the modern bomb shelter!

Forget about duct tape and plastic wrap  for your safe room!

What is a safe room?

A safe room is one which the goal is to rid the air of any biological contaminants such as mold, cat allergens and pollen, viruses, bacteria, noise pollution and other types of environmental pollution like biological gases from a terrorist attack. A safe room can be any room in the house which is toxin free.Such a room can also be modified so as to provide radiation protection from nuclear attack, depending on the distance from ground zero.

Who needs a safe room?

Most people most of the time can tolerate some toxicity; the time to provide protection is when…

People have weak immune systems such as the young, elderly or sick.  And/or allergies that don’t respond well to drugs.

The level of toxic pollution for any reason (such as an attack), could reach such a level as to be considered dangerous to the population at large.

Info regarding a nuclear attack: Data indicates that if the blast of such an attack is survived, the radiation drops to a low level in the first 2 hours, then to a very low (almost negligible) value in the next 2 days

Building a safe room:

For soundproofing the walls and ceilings, see “Party” Walls

To build a safe room, one must bring enough uncontaminated fresh air into that room so that people will have plenty of oxygen. The answer lies in positively pressurizing a room. In order to provide occupants with a completely toxin free room, a constant flow of air needs to be drawn into the room from the outside or adjacent room through extremely high grade Hepa and/or carbon filters, so only pure air enters the room. Using the inflow duct kit for these air purifiers, bring the fresh air in safely from the outside through a duct fitted into a window or wall. When new air enters in from the outside, it filter out large particulates, then a surplus of air fills the room to capacity thereby excess air is forced  out of the room through a one-way outlet duct, because the room must be airtight.  In addition, a air purifier that destroys virus’ and bacteria (such as the  Eco-Quest), is used in the room as a secondary unit and that will continue to function should the first fail.  (Portable battery operated units are available for this purpose, too).

A standalone air conditioner might be considered, where the ionizing air purifier would be built into the ducting.

The radiation barrier is provided by lining the walls, ceiling and if needed, the floor with lead sheeting.  This is easily accomplished by using adhesive to cement the sheeting the walls or to additional drywall sheets which are then applied to the walls, ceiling, etc.  Lead tape is added to finish the sealing job.  The more lead, the better the protection.  The government protects our leaders with several inches!  We ordinary citizens usually cannot afford the kind of  protection the government provides our politicians.

Call us for more info on this. 888-942-7723 8-5 Pacific time

See these links as a resource for your own Safe Room.

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floors and ceilings Our walk-in soundproofing store is located at 455 EAST CARMEL ST, SAN MARCOS, CA. 92078 -- Open 8-5 Weekdays. Saturdays 'till Noon! Location Map & Street View. Nearby Airports: San Diego, Palomar (Carlsbad), (Coaster, too!) Oceanside, Fallbrook, Temecula (Rancho California: French Valley). Call for pickup! (888) 942-7723 Se Hable Espanol!